Double triangulated vs single triangulated

CJunky16 · Feb 1, 2016

Double Triangulated 4 link vs Single Triangulated 4 link

What is better when running a set of 1 ton axels? Is the performance of the flex that much better for a double triangulated set up?

What do you prefer and why?

CHOP SHOP · Feb 2, 2016

you will get mixed opinions here in the PNW.

S&N lovers will tell you parallel uppers rock and others will tell you 2x triangle.

I always thought the parallel uppers were cool, but S&N own go fast guy ran double triangulated uppers and lowers. I asked why, he said he couldnt go fast enough with parallel uppers.

You wont see any of the big guys run parallel uppers, almost all comp rigs and ultra 4 rigs run double triangles. Look at what gets used by the pros.

Folks here swear by parallel uppers tho. I didnt buy it tho.

I tacked up two sets of tabs on a axle sized tube. A set of tabs for triangle and a set for parallel.

I found that the axle cycled ALL OVER the place with parallel uppers. Much tighter pattern of movement with the triangle on both.

You can also build an RC crawler and explore the differences for cheap. Easy to change suspension and compare the dif.

Double triangles make the joints last WAY longer. Parallel uppers EAT joints.

Just my .02. :beer:

TreeClimber · Feb 2, 2016

CHOP SHOP said:
you will get mixed opinions here in the PNW.

S&N lovers will tell you parallel uppers rock and others will tell you 2x triangle.

I always thought the parallel uppers were cool, but S&N own go fast guy ran double triangulated uppers and lowers. I asked why, he said he couldnt go fast enough with parallel uppers.

You wont see any of the big guys run parallel uppers, almost all comp rigs and ultra 4 rigs run double triangles. Look at what gets used by the pros.

Folks here swear by parallel uppers tho. I didnt buy it tho.

I tacked up two sets of tabs on a axle sized tube. A set of tabs for triangle and a set for parallel.

I found that the axle cycled ALL OVER the place with parallel uppers. Much tighter pattern of movement with the triangle on both.

You can also build an RC crawler and explore the differences for cheap. Easy to change suspension and compare the dif.

Double triangles make the joints last WAY longer. Parallel uppers EAT joints.

Just my .02. :beer:

Not sure I buy everything he typed... but then again, I'm running a triangulated lower, and parallel upper. I drive 75 mph down the freeway, and feel perfectly smooth, fine, great.

What I see the most common is Triangulated Uppers, and Parallel lowers.

I think it's less about the style of link mounts, and more about the quality of the joints, the quality of the welding, the geometry of the links, etc.

WHITE TRASH1 · Feb 2, 2016

It's all about the instant center and how the loads are distributed on the joints and tabs. Triangulated lowers will tend to make the axle arc in a frown as the axle articulates from one extreme to the next while triangulation uppers will arc in a smile from one extreme to the next. They both are hard on the joint and tabs of the triangulated links since they are responsible for keeping the axle centered all the side load is on them.

Double triangulated (if triangulation is similar upper and lower) will make the axle simply pivot in place with little to no swing side to side. And the side loads are spread out between all 4 joints so they all wear in about the same.

CJunky16 · Feb 2, 2016

I bought the Ballistic Fab shave kit, pinon guard and truss all as one kit. So the truss for sure will help eliminate any bends of the axel whether its from a triangulated upper or lower.

All in all, because I have the truss to help me with the axel bending, I suppose I will focus on keeping the axel centered. So the double triangulated is the way to go for me. The cost difference between the two is pretty minimal for the bracketry.

Now I am price shopping the link kits to see which one is best. Ruffstuff and Artec seem to have the best packages out there from what I see.

Any brands you guys think I should look at as well?

CHOP SHOP · Feb 2, 2016

Ruffstuff 110 percent. :awesomework:

CHOP SHOP · Feb 2, 2016

TreeClimber said:
Not sure I buy everything he typed... but then again, I'm running a triangulated lower, and parallel upper. I drive 75 mph down the freeway, and feel perfectly smooth, fine, great.

What I see the most common is Triangulated Uppers, and Parallel lowers.

I think it's less about the style of link mounts, and more about the quality of the joints, the quality of the welding, the geometry of the links, etc.

I didnt mean going fast on the road and handle well, I was referring to how the axle reacts when driven fast over rough terrain. Weather it lends to harsh ride and loss of control or not.

CHOP SHOP · Feb 2, 2016

Unless its a rear in a buggy/truggy, sometimes the layout dictates what kinda setup will fit regardless of of what is preferred.

PORTER · Feb 2, 2016

Choppy just nailed it on the nose.

crash2 · Feb 2, 2016

I will say the inverted 4 link is very hard on the upper rod ends. Lowers don't seem to be affected (5/8")..

CJunky16 · Feb 3, 2016

Perfect. Thanks for the input guys.

I was doing some measurements last night on the chassis. The original drive train that was in my jeep was way shorter than what I am stuffing in there.

When I got this 59 CJ6, it had a Buck 225, T90 and a Dana 20 in it. I had a nice full roller sbc 350 built. Then I went out and found a SM465 with a NP205 on it. So, this drive train is around 2' longer....

Measuring from the front of the engine mount to the original tranny crossmember mount bolts, is 28" long. The new set up from the front of the engine mount on the engine, to the yoke on the transfer case is 58" long.

So- from the yoke of the transfer case to the centerline of where the original axels were, it is just barely 3'. I am going to definitely move the axle back a couple inches.