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Edumacate P. Two piece front drivelines, home brew style.

yea, before Jesse put the Stak in his full size truck, he was sporting Toy flanges and joints, behind his healthy big block that he has in it.
I have seen a lot of guys running them with no issues.

Brian
 
wngrog said:
I would modify a Toyota truck 2 pc. They are tough as hell and compact.

That's what I did. Went to Bearing Supply Company and had them mic my shaft and get the proper bearing. The spicer one was like $90. I went to tractor supply and theres was the same part number. Got a one from TSC for like $30, wish I had got the spicer brand now ::)

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I have never seen a properly maintained Toyota ujoint break. I have broken the ears off the shaft that hold the ujoint though.
 
wngrog said:
I have never seen a properly maintained Toyota ujoint break. I have broken the ears off the shaft that hold the ujoint though.
I never maintained mine and never had issues. Hell Jesse reused my old one when I had my front shaft made. IIRC lots of my spares were non-serviceable?? dunno
 
Hardline4 said:
That's what I did. Went to Bearing Supply Company and had them mic my shaft and get the proper bearing. The spicer one was like $90. I went to tractor supply and theres was the same part number. Got a one from TSC for like $30, wish I had got the spicer brand now ::)

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Did you make your own adapters from D60 to Yota yoke or whatever ... ? ( I dont recall what axles your running but do know the yokes to make a yota joint work on Dana are $$
 
You have to get a flange for the D60. Jesse sells them and I am sure they are just a Spicer part.
 
P, I welded a 1350 the the end of the shaft that goes from the pillow block to the axle (Dana60). If you look close in the pics you can see. Yes Jesse sells the yokes I think they were round a bill for the Dana 60 and somewhere close to $280 for a 14B to toy flange :eek:
 
Yeah, I had a 1310 yoke on the end of my spare shaft. It fits fine on the end of the toyota shaft.
 
pillow block thread on pirate right now, scott ellinger welded a 14b yoke and pinion into the tube of a shaft to run the pillow block on. if you have a junker 14b around, cut the pinion shaft off and do this. slip it into the tube and rock out. or 60 front if you want 1310.
 
In those pics, is the shaft from Tcase through pillowblock permanetly attached to the pillow block ? It appears that it was fitted then welded into place when the lower portion and the upper part of that shaft were welded together ? Or is that flange at the bottom removable so it will come out of the pillow block ?

Kelly how did Ben do his and Im thinking he said he was 1350 throughout the front on big booty is that correct ?


I dont think I really wanna mess with the yota to spicer and back again conversion process... I know Jesse makes those adapters but again, they are expensive and one week away shipping time, Ive used them before on another rig... F that. laughing
 
ben bought a 1350 yoke for the tcase output, weld yoke, short tube, hobbed spline male that the pillow block slipped over (not interference, not loose either, took some polishing), decent travel female slip 1410, double weld yoke front downshaft, 1410 top end, 1350 at front 60.
 
P said:
In those pics, is the shaft from Tcase through pillowblock permanetly attached to the pillow block ? It appears that it was fitted then welded into place when the lower portion and the upper part of that shaft were welded together ? Or is that flange at the bottom removable so it will come out of the pillow block ?

Kelly how did Ben do his and Im thinking he said he was 1350 throughout the front on big booty is that correct ?


I dont think I really wanna mess with the yota to spicer and back again conversion process... I know Jesse makes those adapters but again, they are expensive and one week away shipping time, Ive used them before on another rig... F that. laughing

No it comes off. The flange closest to the pillow block is splined and held on with a nut. The the nut off, knock the flange off, and pull the pillow block off. The shaft has a few step downs on it. Just weld up the areas where the steps are then chuck it in a lathe and turn it down so that the area where the bearing will ride in is all the same diameter.
 
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