Emergency shutoff switch?

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BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.

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I'm wanting to do an emergency kill inside my buggy that both me and my passenger can reach or be obvious to someone running up to shut the rig down if something goes bad. I'm thinking something kinda in the lines of big red button type switch so what are you guys using and a source for such item that isn't gonna take a huge amount of space to install.

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This is my Auto Zone master kill switch.
23697527574_6f821f36f9_b.jpg
 
ToyotaTom said:
This is my Auto Zone master kill switch.
23697527574_6f821f36f9_b.jpg

I've had very bad luck with cheap switches like that. They tend to short under the rain/water if not protected. Ask me how I know :/

I try to put my kill switches on the center console where anyone inside the cab can reach it.

Make sure you can use the switch even upside down, hanging from the harness. There's nothing worse than roll over and being unable to kill your electrics.
 
This is what I use.
0ff45e08cd2e2629848ee26d6abb815c.jpg


I have two. One on positive and one on negative. It does take a bit of room behind the panel.


Sent using left thumb.
 
Re:

The question is do you want an estop or a disconnect? You could use a lower amperage plunger style switch that just kills ign & fuel, and then have another for main disconnect.

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I use an inexpensive Marine battery switch mounted at less than an arms reach in between my seats so either myself or passenger can kill it at any time if needed. I use a marine switch so it can get wet without any problems of shorting out. If you use one of the red key style switches, the key can fall out and then you're fumbling trying to put it back in place. thumb.gif
 
I can defiantly reach mine in full race mode upside down, ask me how I know :spin:
 
This sorta falls in here so I'll ask and maybe it'll be good info for someone.

I'm about to rewire my 22r based on this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-formula-toy-forum/960861-basic-22r-propane-f-toy-wiring.html

Here's my question/idea.

I could run from the propane solenoid (fuel cut off) through the oil pressure sending unit then to the propane relay. That way if I ever lost oil pressure in the case of a roll over, it would kill the propane relay, cut off fuel, and ultimately the truck. Its good insurance for say, if I roll and something stupid happens where I can hit the kill switch, etc.

Only worried that I'll get on something steep or get sideways in a rut and lose pressure for a second and it kill my truck when I don't need it to.

Input? Or am I over thinking it?
 
ToyotaTom said:
That is the same diagram that I used when wiring up my 22re propane.

Yeah I'm gonna start on it this week..

I'm ordering the relays and all that from delcity.net today.
 
Re: Re: Re:

paradisepwoffrd said:
The question is do you want an estop or a disconnect? You could use a lower amperage plunger style switch that just kills ign & fuel, and then have another for main disconnect.

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I just want to stop the engine in the event of a rollover.
My ignition is keyed and it's a reach for me so my passenger would ha e to come out of the belts to cut it off
I'd like something that was compact so I could put it in my art carr shifter housing.

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Re: Re: Re:

BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC. said:
I just want to stop the engine in the event of a rollover.
My ignition is keyed and it's a reach for me so my passenger would ha e to come out of the belts to cut it off
I'd like something that was compact so I could put it in my art carr shifter housing.

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38 Special uses a normal toggle that trips a large continuous run solenoid on the firewall. But, it is not obvious to someone reaching in the buggy to assist like the one I use in Solo Buggy.
 
Re:

You could go with something like this:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/221120873442

Wire your ign & fuel pump relay triggers through it.

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Re: Re: Re:

paradisepwoffrd said:
You could go with something like this:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/221120873442

Wire your ign & fuel pump relay triggers through it.

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I just bit the bullet on a couple of those switches to see what works best. I figure at that price I'd get em and see how they work out and if not I'm out a whole $10 for 2 switches.

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I wired in a driver tether from a boat to kill the motor and fuel pump, pretty simple setup that seems to be what you are after. I found the ignition wire and fuel pump wire and spliced the switch into them. Once pulled it kills the motor and fuel but still allows the winch to work for self recovery if needed
 
Re:

That's a cool idea!
Another thing I may not have mentioned is my rig has a very sanitary look and I'm trying to keep the theme.

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piainless has a nice setup I have used on a few rigs https://jet.com/product/detail/1c38a9f19fdd46779317e16d3a1d5b19?jcmp=pla:ggl:vehicles_parts_a1:vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_motor_vehicle_power_electrical_systems_a1_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=8337c259-41bb-40de-86a6-7a11f4248c1b&abkId=403-498026&gclid=CJmVzPWzscoCFdgDgQodtgIC9A
 
On my new build I will be using a tether kill switch that you would typically see on an ATV, this is the one I picked up - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378K6L0?keywords=Pro%20Armor%20A040021%20Black%20Universal%20Kill%20Switch&qid=1455686419&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

These are a "Grounding" type switch, when the clip is pulled the switch inside connects to chassis ground. Utilizing a standard relay will allow this type of switch to work in an automotive 12v environment, I have bench tested my setup and it works very well. Mine will be installed so that it will cut power to the entire vehicle by disengaging the continuous duty solenoid that controls all power from the battery. It could also be installed to cut power to the fuel pump and some part of the ignition.

The reason I wanted this type of "kill" switch is the ability to attach the lanyard to either myself or to a stationary point between the driver and passenger seats. Instead of reaching for a button to push I will only need to "sweep" my arm across the lanyard which will give a much larger target to hit in a panic.

I also intend on installing an oil pressure switch (the style that would turn on an "idiot" light) that will also act as a kill switch if I ever lose oil pressure, ie. rollover or mechanical failure.
 

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Oops.. I just noticed the stuff I missed in the middle of the thread.... Guess I'm a little late to the party lol
 
deranged57 said:
On my new build I will be using a tether kill switch that you would typically see on an ATV, this is the one I picked up - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378K6L0?keywords=Pro%20Armor%20A040021%20Black%20Universal%20Kill%20Switch&qid=1455686419&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

These are a "Grounding" type switch, when the clip is pulled the switch inside connects to chassis ground. Utilizing a standard relay will allow this type of switch to work in an automotive 12v environment, I have bench tested my setup and it works very well. Mine will be installed so that it will cut power to the entire vehicle by disengaging the continuous duty solenoid that controls all power from the battery. It could also be installed to cut power to the fuel pump and some part of the ignition.

The reason I wanted this type of "kill" switch is the ability to attach the lanyard to either myself or to a stationary point between the driver and passenger seats. Instead of reaching for a button to push I will only need to "sweep" my arm across the lanyard which will give a much larger target to hit in a panic.

I also intend on installing an oil pressure switch (the style that would turn on an "idiot" light) that will also act as a kill switch if I ever lose oil pressure, ie. rollover or mechanical failure.

you got a link to the continuous duty solenoid you will be using? Safe to run the winch through?
 
Re: Re: Emergency shutoff switch?

rockwild said:
you got a link to the continuous duty solenoid you will be using? Safe to run the winch through?
The one I have been using for 3 years is a 100 amp from a CaseIH tractor. I have the oem unit (pn:107655C1) this is an aftermarket replacement http://www.nationwidepartswarehouse.com/product-p/1700-0208.htm

There are other models that were used on various automotive applications that are 50-75 amp rated.

My winch doesn't run through mine since it draws well over 100 amps at its rated max. The winch has enough solenoids that can cause problems, didnt see a need to add another. LoL

Quite a few options here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?rh=i%3Aaps&k=continuous+duty+solenoid+12v

You could probably get by with a 200 amp rated model if you really wanted to incorporate the winch.

My personal choice would be a battery disconnect to kill power to a winch. Most can easily handle the power draw from a winch since they utilize a mechanical connection.

The CD solenoid is great as a safety option since it allows you to kill power to all fans, pumps, and ignition with a single switch.
 
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