Heat-treated Ring and Pinion

[FiFo]

Well, I broke my High-Pinion Dana 30 Ring and Pinion on Memorial Day. Now before anyone says it I have neither the time nor the money for an axle upgrade at the moment so my plan is to pick up a new ring and pinion at Randys. What I am wondering is how much strength would having my Ring and Pinion heat-treated add? I noticed that Bobby Long does heat-treating for $45, which considering how much we all spend on our rigs is chump change if it will keep me from going through ring and pinions.

Longfield Super Axles
"Heat treat and cryo treating any ring and pinion. This process makes them much stronger then stock for hard core offroad abuse."

Does anyone have experience with this? How much strength do you think this would add? Is it worth my time, or would it only make a marginal difference?

 

[crash2]

Well, I broke my High-Pinion Dana 30 Ring and Pinion on Memorial Day. Now before anyone says it I have neither the time nor the money for an axle upgrade at the moment so my plan is to pick up a new ring and pinion at Randys. What I am wondering is how much strength would having my Ring and Pinion heat-treated add? I noticed that Bobby Long does heat-treating for $45, which considering how much we all spend on our rigs is chump change if it will keep me from going through ring and pinions.

Longfield Super Axles
"Heat treat and cryo treating any ring and pinion. This process makes them much stronger then stock for hard core offroad abuse."

Does anyone have experience with this? How much strength do you think this would add? Is it worth my time, or would it only make a marginal difference?

They already are heat treated :eeek:

You mean cryo don't ya :eeek:

I don't think anything you do to that front is going to help--you have exceeded the weight that front will be able to handle--you might help keep the r/p alive but the rest of it is just going to fall apart...

 

[Hip]

Well, I broke my High-Pinion Dana 30 Ring and Pinion on Memorial Day. Now before anyone says it I have neither the time nor the money for an axle upgrade at the moment so my plan is to pick up a new ring and pinion at Randys. What I am wondering is how much strength would having my Ring and Pinion heat-treated add? I noticed that Bobby Long does heat-treating for $45, which considering how much we all spend on our rigs is chump change if it will keep me from going through ring and pinions.

Longfield Super Axles
"Heat treat and cryo treating any ring and pinion. This process makes them much stronger then stock for hard core offroad abuse."

Does anyone have experience with this? How much strength do you think this would add? Is it worth my time, or would it only make a marginal difference?

ok here goes:

IMHO dont buy yukon anything. its not american steel and is inferior. if you insist on trying to keep the dana 30 alive i would only buy ring and pinon from a company that is made in america even if it costs a few dollars more. let the flames begin...


cyro does help slightly by aligning the flow of molecules. not gonna keep it alive unless you start with stronger steel in the gears. again this is just my opinion.

i have taken too many diffs apart with spicer gears that have been beat on for 30 years with perfect contact and pattern...seems like every time i have to help someone reset up thier gears i take out yukons with shitty wear patterns and severly worn contact areas. some of these were set up correctly and some were not. most had broken teeth.

of course im of the opinion that most people use the newer inferior fasteners that come in the kits instead of the OEM fasteners. most failures i have seen have been due to loose bolts and get worse from there so its all opinion.

 

[megatoy66]

Bobby reheat treats the ring and pinion and doing that brings the rockwell hardness down a few points so that they are not as hard and can take a better shockload just like they do for drag cars.
Then he cryo treats them and that realigns the molecules and that process makes them much more tougher.
It works well on my genuine 5.29 gears in my toyota on 42's!!



But you still have a dana 30.......pretty small.

 

[Binder]

Heat treating could mean several things. Cryo is a form of heat treating as well as tempering or anealing. If it were me I would cryo if anything.

 

[longfield]

Yes we heat treat them, we make them a little softer like Odie said they will take a lot more shock load. Just like you can by soft gears to. Yes this does work we have done lots of them.

 

[FiFo]

i have taken too many diffs apart with spicer gears that have been beat on for 30 years with perfect contact and pattern...seems like every time i have to help someone reset up thier gears i take out yukons with shitty wear patterns and severely worn contact areas. some of these were set up correctly and some were not. Most had broken teeth.

The best that I can tell, Spicer doesn't make 4.88 gears for the Reverse Rotation Dana 30. This means I would have to regear my rear D44 to 4.56 at the same time. I'm half tempted to try it since I would assume Spicer 4.56 would be stronger then Yukon 4.88, but that turns my cheap fix into a fairly expensive fix.

Yes we heat treat them, we make them a little softer like Odie said they will take a lot more shock load. Just like you can by soft gears to. Yes this does work we have done lots of them.

Changing the subject a little, the only manufactures I could find that made a 4.88 reverse Rotation where Yukon, Precision, Genuine, and Superior. Given that there is only about a $30 difference between a Yukon at the bottom of the price range and Superior at the top, what does everyone recommend I go with? And will it even matter if I take them to Longfield and have him work his magic?

 

[JEEPFREEK1]

interesting though.. I have a Reverse cut D30 and running 35"s as you know.. I also have the Yukon gears in it..

4.56's though.. I (knock on wood) have been running those gears in there now for about 5 1/2 years without any issue.. not sure what the variable between your rig and mine (besides XJ vs. YJ of course)..

I'm just wondering how much more weight would an XJ have up front vs. my rig? After all, i have a heavy bumper + winch..

Hmmmm..

I think alot has to do with who sets it up and as previously mentioned, what parts were used (bearing, install kit, etc).

My opinion is to buy as good as parts as you can get for the R & P.. have it setup by someone who knows what they are doing.

And try some finesse instead of running the lines like KarlVP.. :redneck: :stirpot: :corn: ..

What size tires are you running now BTW? I'm doing 35's now, but I wouldn't go any bigger than 36"s on a rev. cut D30 w/ 297x U-joints ..

Even then, I also have that ARB up front (shush KarlVP.. it works fine.. you and your "already broken" smack talk).. Being able to turn my locker off when I choose to might help save severe wear, tear, and stress on my front R&P. I only engage it when I need it going up an obstacle or something and turn it off as soon as I can.

So, take it as you wish to .

 

[Berne]

Yukon, Precision, Genuine, and Superior. Given that there is only about a $30 difference between a Yukon at the bottom of the price range and Superior at the top, what does everyone recommend I go with?

w/o a doubt I'd go w/ a Superior R&P....have had good luck with their stuff vs. cheaper brands in "marginal" aplications where r&p's tend to break...

 

[FiFo]

I'm running 33x10.5R15 TSL, with a Detroit up front. Tom Baker (tomsbrokeagain) did the original install so I know it was done right.

Actually where kind of scratching out head on why it broke in the first place. I was trying to get out of a whole I dug in the snow at the time; there really wasn't any traction to be had, if there was I wouldn't have been stuck. On the plus side my new winch works like a champ. :awesomework:

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

interesting though.. I have a Reverse cut D30 and running 35"s as you know.. I also have the Yukon gears in it..

4.56's though.. I (knock on wood) have been running those gears in there now for about 5 1/2 years without any issue.. not sure what the variable between your rig and mine (besides XJ vs. YJ of course)..

I'm just wondering how much more weight would an XJ have up front vs. my rig? After all, i have a heavy bumper + winch..

Hmmmm..

I think alot has to do with who sets it up and as previously mentioned, what parts were used (bearing, install kit, etc).

My opinion is to buy as good as parts as you can get for the R & P.. have it setup by someone who knows what they are doing.

And try some finesse instead of running the lines like KarlVP.. :redneck: :stirpot: :corn: ..

What size tires are you running now BTW? I'm doing 35's now, but I wouldn't go any bigger than 36"s on a rev. cut D30 w/ 297x U-joints ..

Even then, I also have that ARB up front (shush KarlVP.. it works fine.. you and your "already broken" smack talk).. Being able to turn my locker off when I choose to might help save severe wear, tear, and stress on my front R&P. I only engage it when I need it going up an obstacle or something and turn it off as soon as I can.

So, take it as you wish to .

The big differance is the weight of the right foot. You have to see Mike attack with his jeep before you know.

 

[FiFo]

The big differance is the weight of the right foot. You have to see Mike attack with his jeep before you know.

You see in order to promote proper oil flow it

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

keep telling yourself that. I think a right foot diet is in order for you.

 

[Berne]

Or at least that

 

[JEEPFREEK1]

I'm running 33x10.5R15 TSL, with a Detroit up front. Tom Baker (tomsbrokeagain) did the original install so I know it was done right.

Actually where kind of scratching out head on why it broke in the first place. I was trying to get out of a whole I dug in the snow at the time; there really wasn't any traction to be had, if there was I wouldn't have been stuck. On the plus side my new winch works like a champ. :awesomework:

Yup, I'd trust Tom's work, so I'd say it was installed by someone competant..

As far as watching Mike on the trail, I actually have only been on the trail with him a couple times before he put his rig to be "converted"..

I'm hoping to be on the trail with you guys soon.. maybe elbe..

Rachel (Tonka Toy) and I moved out to a house in Federal way (Garage/back yard/yadda yadda).. so we've been quite busy lately and have had to miss the last couple Tamer's meetings.. we are still alive and well though!

 

[FiFo]

Yup, I'd trust Tom's work, so I'd say it was installed by someone competant..

As far as watching Mike on the trail, I actually have only been on the trail with him a couple times before he put his rig to be "converted"..

I'm hoping to be on the trail with you guys soon.. maybe elbe..

Rachel (Tonka Toy) and I moved out to a house in Federal way (Garage/back yard/yadda yadda).. so we've been quite busy lately and have had to miss the last couple Tamer's meetings.. we are still alive and well though!

I'll be at elbe along with my father and brother.

 

[Long&Low]

Not sue if you have a low pinion D30 or or a hi-pinion, like from an XJ. But a hi pinion will be stronger, but you prolly already now that.

Cryo-ing around here is pretty cheap if you can get folks to batch up a bunch of stuff like axle shafts, u-joints, Most charge a nominal fee for one or two parts but will cut you a break on lots of 100 pounds or more, or some increment thereof.

 

[KarlVP]

I would get a set of gears made with AMERICAN steel, get bobby to cryo them and run 'em.

Yukon uses overseas steel, and you never know what you are getting.

 

[jeffs88toy]

Sound like you need to get on the parts locater and buy a d60 hp from back east. My friend got one for 450 ship I shorten it up . I had a tj 2000 with stock axles put locker in and wheel the **** out of it never broke witj 37'' .

 

[FiFo]

Not sue if you have a low pinion D30 or or a hi-pinion, like from an XJ. But a hi pinion will be stronger, but you prolly already now that.

Cryo-ing around here is pretty cheap if you can get folks to batch up a bunch of stuff like axle shafts, u-joints, Most charge a nominal fee for one or two parts but will cut you a break on lots of 100 pounds or more, or some increment thereof.

Ya, it's a 96 Cherokee so it's a HP D30.

Sound like you need to get on the parts locater and buy a d60 hp from back east. My friend got one for 450 ship I shorten it up . I had a tj 2000 with stock axles put locker in and wheel the **** out of it never broke witj 37'' .

Long term something like that is what I want to do, but I don't have the money at the moment.