7
72dozer`
Guest
hey guys i was thinking of doin a four link or three link or something idno yet what kind but ive been looking at the johnny joints and what some info on ersonal opions. so any info would e greatly appericated....
72dozer` said:hey guys i was thinking of doin a four link or three link or something idno yet what kind but ive been looking at the johnny joints and what some info on ersonal opions. so any info would e greatly appericated....
Yeah someone does. We make tube inserts for Rusty's offroad to fit them and the ones he sends are threaded. and have like 6 holes in the nut part. We just started makin 1/2 drive sickets to fit them . Pretty sweet.blacksheep10 said:so does nobody make one with a threaded body both sides and a set pin to keep the nut from backing out? My supplier does, but its equivalent to a 3/4/3/4 heim with 1" shank. I wouldn't put them in the big boy shoes and trust them. I think the nut style with 3/8" of thread in would hold better than a snap ring and washer. Putting the snap ring style together is a MOTHERFUCKER. I wouldn't want to do it on the trail or at camp unless you have a good vise on the back of your truck..
I sell heims at a good price, and yes I'm pimping
That is the an awsome tool, I will be using that for the front links.badreligion_13 said:The snap ring style are no problem and can be dissassembled and reassembled in no time flat. From what I posted in the link below it took me 1 minute and 26 seconds with an impact. I have done it on the trail for someone before with my tool using a ratchet, deep well socket, vice grips, QUALITY SELF LOCKING snap ring pliers and allen wrench (to hold bolt that compressed the JJ in the case of my home made tool) in less than 5 minutes ( 3 minutes and 12 seconds to be exact). I just carry my tool around with me in my tool box...And yes, I still have not made a shorter bolt. So assembly and dissassemby is really not a problem.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449534
As for bending the lip.. This can be easily solved. One by custom maching the barrel lip "thicker" to prevent bowing. When 8 of my 16 were made at home(the other 8 were all original Currie JJ) they were made to Currie specs with the addition of a thicker lip to prevent such a thing..This was like 4 years ago.. Or you can tack weld a thick plate around the outside..TIG probably best way to this to control distortion from heat..Just food for thought.
The biggest limitation with a QUALITY JJ is the bolt size. To get above 5/8 you have to go to a 3 inch diamter JJ which is a big JJ.
so you are 1tonwillys on pirate? if so, you still want some ORI's?badreligion_13 said:The snap ring style are no problem and can be dissassembled and reassembled in no time flat. From what I posted in the link below it took me 1 minute and 26 seconds with an impact. I have done it on the trail for someone before with my tool using a ratchet, deep well socket, vice grips, QUALITY SELF LOCKING snap ring pliers and allen wrench (to hold bolt that compressed the JJ in the case of my home made tool) in less than 5 minutes ( 3 minutes and 12 seconds to be exact). I just carry my tool around with me in my tool box...And yes, I still have not made a shorter bolt. So assembly and dissassemby is really not a problem.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449534
As for bending the lip.. This can be easily solved. One by custom maching the barrel lip "thicker" to prevent bowing. When 8 of my 16 were made at home(the other 8 were all original Currie JJ) they were made to Currie specs with the addition of a thicker lip to prevent such a thing..This was like 4 years ago.. Or you can tack weld a thick plate around the outside..TIG probably best way to this to control distortion from heat..Just food for thought.
The biggest limitation with a QUALITY JJ is the bolt size. To get above 5/8 you have to go to a 3 inch diamter JJ which is a big JJ.
blacksheep10 said:so you are 1tonwillys on pirate? if so, you still want some ORI's?
I have used the vise, and it isn't a problem making a tool, but why. has to be a better way
99_tj said:http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RC-SI212&Category_Code=BP-F_I
Ran across these the other day. Forged body, available in 2" and 2.5". Threaded Body with Set Screw, no more snap rings. Price is good too.
P said:I have JJ's in the uppers and Ballistics in the lowers. Yes I have had one washer allow the snap ring to come out ( I assume thats what happened ) but being the type to push **** just to see what it will do, I ran it the remainder of the day well into the night with it "apart" and put it back together and it hasnt done it again. It does make a bit of noise as the body of the JJ will bounce back and forth but if you have suitable tabs, it aint going to go anywere and yea you may have to put new bushing/ sides in it ( I didnt...still good to go and they didnt show any damage... )
I have the Ballistic Fab joints on the lowers, these are retained with a spanner style threaded body and nut. I REALLY like thier design and I havent had any issue with them at all. I was first concerned with the small set screw that keeps the spanner style nut from backing off vibrating out or whatever. But not a single one has budged which is great. Ive bent an 1.25 shank on one of my lowers but that mostly has to do with me links not being quit as long as they should be and me putting that link in a situation were everything was on it and it just acted like a big cheater bar and put a slight bend in it.. Im not sweeting it but do monitor it after big rides to see if it gets worse. Ill replace it when it gets to a point I get concerned, for now, No worries.