7
72dozer`
Guest
hey guys i was thinking of doin a four link or three link or something idno yet what kind but ive been looking at the johnny joints and what some info on ersonal opions. so any info would e greatly appericated....
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
I was sold on the JJ's when I had my jeep. I ran them in the rear 4 link and they held up fine and were cheap enough. They are greasable, but unless you can mount them so the zerk is safe, then they will soon be non-greasable. I have heard of folks blowing the sides out of them, P did this recently. I run a high quality heim joint now and I like them also. I don't think you can wrong with either, just need to decide what is best for you.
patooyee
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Messages
- 5,692
Me and two other guys I ride with have all blown the sides out of them. (Well, the sides were bowing out and getting ready to go. We all replaced them with heims before they actually died.) I'm told that the new version that Currie makes has beefed up washers to prevent this. When I first noticed that one of mine was about to go I replaced it and checked the rest and sure enough they were all about to go. I'm not going to risk running them ever again. There's no substitute for a good heim and if you find the right sources and sizes a heim can be almost as cheap.
J. J.
J. J.
72dozer` said:
I am currently running Balistic Johnny Joints in the rear of my front Four link, and after almost 4 years of beating on it, I just changed them out. I have Heims everywhere else, I have not had any issues with the Johnny's though. I used to run spring bushings on the lower ends of my four link and that sucked. They would twist and cut the crap out of the Eurethane bushings in no time. Some people have had good luck with them, but not me. Just my .02.
FroggF350
Well-Known Member
I just redone my rear 3-link with the new Currie Ent. Johnnys. I had the eurothane bushings befor and they really sucked, no flex and the arms cut the crap out of the bushings. The only bad thing about the JJs is the new washer set up, it takes 2 people and a lil time to get the snap rings in, but once we got them on the buggy I really like the way they flex. I still have to 4 link the front and install my rockwell axles (with the new 47 LTBs I just got ;D), but here is a pic of it flexed with a 14 bolt/ 10 bolt set up leafs up front.
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
so does nobody make one with a threaded body both sides and a set pin to keep the nut from backing out? My supplier does, but its equivalent to a 3/4/3/4 heim with 1" shank. I wouldn't put them in the big boy shoes and trust them. I think the nut style with 3/8" of thread in would hold better than a snap ring and washer. Putting the snap ring style together is a MOTHERFUCKER. I wouldn't want to do it on the trail or at camp unless you have a good vise on the back of your truck..
I sell heims at a good price, and yes I'm pimping
I sell heims at a good price, and yes I'm pimping
3 tons o fun
Cole pisses haterade
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 739
Yeah someone does. We make tube inserts for Rusty's offroad to fit them and the ones he sends are threaded. and have like 6 holes in the nut part. We just started makin 1/2 drive sickets to fit them . Pretty sweet.blacksheep10 said:so does nobody make one with a threaded body both sides and a set pin to keep the nut from backing out? My supplier does, but its equivalent to a 3/4/3/4 heim with 1" shank. I wouldn't put them in the big boy shoes and trust them. I think the nut style with 3/8" of thread in would hold better than a snap ring and washer. Putting the snap ring style together is a MOTHERFUCKER. I wouldn't want to do it on the trail or at camp unless you have a good vise on the back of your truck..
I sell heims at a good price, and yes I'm pimping
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
well, if a person could get clear of the ****ing snap rings, I think that would be the design I would want.
FroggF350
Well-Known Member
Yeah the snap rings suck. for the money it aint too bad. I got like $200 in 8 of them/ 4 fixed and 4 threaded.
badreligion_13
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2008
- Messages
- 258
The snap ring style are no problem and can be dissassembled and reassembled in no time flat. From what I posted in the link below it took me 1 minute and 26 seconds with an impact. I have done it on the trail for someone before with my tool using a ratchet, deep well socket, vice grips, QUALITY SELF LOCKING snap ring pliers and allen wrench (to hold bolt that compressed the JJ in the case of my home made tool) in less than 5 minutes ( 3 minutes and 12 seconds to be exact). I just carry my tool around with me in my tool box...And yes, I still have not made a shorter bolt. So assembly and dissassemby is really not a problem.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449534
As for bending the lip.. This can be easily solved. One by custom maching the barrel lip "thicker" to prevent bowing. When 8 of my 16 were made at home(the other 8 were all original Currie JJ) they were made to Currie specs with the addition of a thicker lip to prevent such a thing..This was like 4 years ago.. Or you can tack weld a thick plate around the outside..TIG probably best way to this to control distortion from heat..Just food for thought.
The biggest limitation with a QUALITY JJ is the bolt size. To get above 5/8 you have to go to a 3 inch diamter JJ which is a big JJ.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449534
As for bending the lip.. This can be easily solved. One by custom maching the barrel lip "thicker" to prevent bowing. When 8 of my 16 were made at home(the other 8 were all original Currie JJ) they were made to Currie specs with the addition of a thicker lip to prevent such a thing..This was like 4 years ago.. Or you can tack weld a thick plate around the outside..TIG probably best way to this to control distortion from heat..Just food for thought.
The biggest limitation with a QUALITY JJ is the bolt size. To get above 5/8 you have to go to a 3 inch diamter JJ which is a big JJ.
FroggF350
Well-Known Member
That is the an awsome tool, I will be using that for the front links.badreligion_13 said:
blacksheep10
XBJRA champ/ 555 and team Nasty codriver
so you are 1tonwillys on pirate? if so, you still want some ORI's?badreligion_13 said:
I have used the vise, and it isn't a problem making a tool, but why. has to be a better way
P
If its free, its P
I have JJ's in the uppers and Ballistics in the lowers. Yes I have had one washer allow the snap ring to come out ( I assume thats what happened ) but being the type to push **** just to see what it will do, I ran it the remainder of the day well into the night with it "apart" and put it back together and it hasnt done it again. It does make a bit of noise as the body of the JJ will bounce back and forth but if you have suitable tabs, it aint going to go anywere and yea you may have to put new bushing/ sides in it ( I didnt...still good to go and they didnt show any damage... )
I have the Ballistic Fab joints on the lowers, these are retained with a spanner style threaded body and nut. I REALLY like thier design and I havent had any issue with them at all. I was first concerned with the small set screw that keeps the spanner style nut from backing off vibrating out or whatever. But not a single one has budged which is great. Ive bent an 1.25 shank on one of my lowers but that mostly has to do with me links not being quit as long as they should be and me putting that link in a situation were everything was on it and it just acted like a big cheater bar and put a slight bend in it.. Im not sweeting it but do monitor it after big rides to see if it gets worse. Ill replace it when it gets to a point I get concerned, for now, No worries.
I have the Ballistic Fab joints on the lowers, these are retained with a spanner style threaded body and nut. I REALLY like thier design and I havent had any issue with them at all. I was first concerned with the small set screw that keeps the spanner style nut from backing off vibrating out or whatever. But not a single one has budged which is great. Ive bent an 1.25 shank on one of my lowers but that mostly has to do with me links not being quit as long as they should be and me putting that link in a situation were everything was on it and it just acted like a big cheater bar and put a slight bend in it.. Im not sweeting it but do monitor it after big rides to see if it gets worse. Ill replace it when it gets to a point I get concerned, for now, No worries.
badreligion_13
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2008
- Messages
- 258
blacksheep10 said:
Yep I am 1tonwillys..Yes, I am interested in the ORI.Thank you for checking on me. I just have not had time to inquire further..I will try and get in touch with you..probably next week before I have time though..
As to why for the tool, I thought it was a better way myself after seeing people complain about how much of PITA there were to assemble or dissassemble. I have seen people bitch that they had to use a "press or vise" to even push in the urathane cup into the barrel. Someone in the POR thread said I was able to do it with mine by "hand" because I made mine and with the Currie's you couldn't do this..Well, he was wrong, because I can push the cup into new curries as well with my hand... Anyways, I thought my tool made it incredibly easy to assemble and dissassemble. So much so that my then 4 year old who is now 6 can do it all by herself once i push the cups in! Not to mention it was easy to make it since I can do much of my own machine work.
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RC-SI212&Category_Code=BP-F_I
Ran across these the other day. Forged body, available in 2" and 2.5". Threaded Body with Set Screw, no more snap rings. Price is good too.
Ran across these the other day. Forged body, available in 2" and 2.5". Threaded Body with Set Screw, no more snap rings. Price is good too.
P
If its free, its P
Scott from Scotts 4x4 said the Rusty's are garbage, 1 good day of riding and the "rubber" is beat out of them and they are sloppy. I almost bought a set at the Mountainside swap meet for my dad and they felt loose'r then a goose so I'd be careful 
