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HELP - 4link calculator numbers

T.K.

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
104
Location
Leeds, AL
Anti-Squat 90 %
Roll Center Height 30 in
Roll Axis Angle -5 degrees (Roll Understeer)


Need some help... Anybody know what those numbers mean and if they're good? I just e-built the four-link for Phil's YJ with the excel 4-link calculator.

(BTW, thic is Ricky)
 
Do you have the excel file to look at, so we can see link lenghs and placement? I think the trend is 60-80% anti sqaut these days, so maybe make the uppers adujustable or change the way they are now to lower it a little, you might like it better that way. but :dunno:
 
You might want to play with the lengthening the upper links, they way they are you might get some wierd pinion angles. I am no expert, just a thought, I have read lots of threads and a few books because I was planning to do mine on day.
 
Can you raise the lower link at the axle end to the center-line of the axle? This will help lower your A.S.. It does put more stress on the joint though.
 
Is the setup on the graph what they are already running? Your tires should show that they are deflated on the drawing. You need to punch in the rolling height of the tire, thats how tall it is sitting at the pressure your running. Also make sure that you have your center of gravity correct. It should be top bolt trans, center tc, or center crank. Just find a happy medium between those. On my setup the #'s looked ok , but when I flexed it out I had a little flex steer. Anti squat is going to be up to the driver. Look at 100 as the beginning point. anything less than a 100 you'll get less downward force and less will hop, anything above you'll get more downward force and more wheel hop. Also as your axle drops on the trail you get different antisquat #'s so if your crawlin and continuosly flexed out and and your axle hanging low go with lower #'s if your high balling up a trail and hittin **** wide open your axle staying somewhat at the same height. go with a little neutral #. Some rigs have adjustable uppers to change anti squat I think this is a good option.
 
kid rok said:
Is the setup on the graph what they are already running? Your tires should show that they are deflated on the drawing. You need to punch in the rolling height of the tire, thats how tall it is sitting at the pressure your running. Also make sure that you have your center of gravity correct. It should be top bolt trans, center tc, or center crank. Just find a happy medium between those. On my setup the #'s looked ok , but when I flexed it out I had a little flex steer. Anti squat is going to be up to the driver. Look at 100 as the beginning point. anything less than a 100 you'll get less downward force and less will hop, anything above you'll get more downward force and more wheel hop. Also as your axle drops on the trail you get different antisquat #'s so if your crawlin and continuosly flexed out and and your axle hanging low go with lower #'s if your high balling up a trail and hittin **** wide open your axle staying somewhat at the same height. go with a little neutral #. Some rigs have adjustable uppers to change anti squat I think this is a good option.

The rig is currently on jack stands with nothing under the frame but the axles. It's sitting at ride-height and the axle is mocked in place. I just designed what I thought would work well based on the measurements. I had to estimate a few things. I'll dial it in a little now that I know a few new things and post up.
 
What's the roll center about

Ok, If you roll your rig over from , lets say left to right. Put a mark where your right in side tire is setting. Make sure its the middle of the tire. Roll your rig over a complete 360 degres where its setting back on all four tires. make another mark where your right inside tire is. Measure from mark to mark divide that by 2 and you'll have your roll center.














:flipoff1: hell I don't know I'm just repeating what people have told me.

ActuallyI think it's where your your anti squat lines and your link lines connect.
 
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