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Help me diagnose the LRZ?

Little Red Zuk

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Mar 27, 2006
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A mean little m
Rig: 1988 Samurai, with 1995-ish Sidekick 1.6 16V FI.

So during the run at the NWW GTG, the Zuk started running funny. Rough idle, seemed like a miss type condition, with stronger pulses through the exhaust, stumble off idle, and died easily. Was told by a couple people that it's very likely a fuel filter, and after some well thought out procrastination, I replaced it and it's still rough.

So I pulled a plug out to take a look, and it looked ok, but gap was very tight. Supposed to be at .032, it checked at .026. Also some corrosion in the dist. cap. So off to the parts store I go, just to get these taken care of. Cap won't be here until tomorrow, so I'll get everything else ready. So if this does NOT take care of the problem, what should my next step be?
 
Plugs are replaced now, rotor is in. Did some searching, also cleaned and tightened up the ground cable. Not a whole lot of noticeable difference. No vacuum leaks. Don't have a way to really check fuel pressure, and how would one check a MAF? I don't have a scanner, and was never installed with a check engine light either.

O2 sensor maybe?
 
go to schmucks, buy the gray can of CRC MAF cleaner, and clean the maf, even if it doesnt fix it...it cant hurt and will most likely run better in the end. now make sure you dont have any loose wires in your harness from your swap.. grab a spray bottle with mist capabillities and mist the plug wires at night and see if you see a spark, (or just look very closely at them and make sure there isnt any arcing out). If you've done all this and everything seems good (now you have done the filter/cap/rotor method) im assuming you atleast listened to your fuel pump and it sounds normal...not pumping extra loud or in intervals, then make sure your timing is correct, if all checks out, your going to want to see if you can barrow a distributor from a friend or such but swap in a new one in and or make sure yours is good. it allmost sounds like the pickup in the dist. is going out or you could have a bad coil. Is the spark consistant? is it a random interval? how did your old plugs look? was one more corroded than another? was one more burnt than another? any signs of which cyl this could be coming from more than another cyl?


if you have narrowed it down to this point and it looks like all cyl. are running equal and its a spark problem its most likely going to be the hall-effect in your dist. going bad or doubtfull but maybe a coil.



good luck and hopfully i helped. :awesomework::beer:
 
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Yup. Haven't dealt with engine diagnostics in over 10 years. Differentials are kinda easy when you get down to it. :D

Well I was going to let you borrow my scanner if you were closer, maybe somebody in the area can scan it for you though.

I would think that if it were a fuel delivery problem, it would bog or die if you stab the gas. This is my 2.3 with a 7 psi fuel pump feeding EFI.


Does it run anything like that?
 
You know, it just dawned on me you said 95ish, so you're system isn't obd2. Run your codes with a test light. :awesomework:
 
Check out the MAF. Are your plugs black like it is running full rich? I had a solder joint brake inside of my MAF and it was shorting it to full rich. Rough idle if I could get it to idle at all, stumbling and popping out the exhaust, low power, smoking, black plugs and you could smell fuel. This is a 16v 1.6.
 
wth? why didnt you shout?
Brian, I am sure you understand that when gnomes and midgets shout, it just sounds like a faint breeze. folks of that stature, just don't have it in them to make loud noises, but rather squeaks.:haha:

(please don't hurt me lrz)
 
so, it apears #3 cyl is dead....
need to do a compresion check
but were thinking pluged/dead injector....

darren, i just thought of this, but an old school way to verify the harness ( just in case) is with a test light while its running.
 
Ya, did some checking and zukkev told me to do a compression check, and switch a couple plug wires. But as you know, I'd hit my frustration point with the Bronco issues. So I'll do a compression check tomorrow, and do some research to see if I can test the injector with a regular Fluke multi-meter.
 
multi meter usualy wont work to well... elcheepo test light usualy works best....
give me a shout if ya need/want a hand...
 
Got compression.
Switched #3 and #4 wires, still no change, #3 still no worky.

Power to hot lead on injector unplugged.
Power to ground lead injector plugged in.

Now what?:eeek:
 
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