How many lugnut turns are safe?

[SUPAFLY]

I just added 1/4" spacers to the front of my Jeep (the ones that just slide over the studs) When the lug nuts are fully torqued, I get 6 full turns out of them. Is this safe, or do I need longer studs? BTW, I'm running 38" TSL's

 

[Eric]

if you are worried about it, then I would get longer wheel studs. Is it worth the worry?

 

[skrause]

From what I've been told, at least as much length as width worth of engagement.

 

[SUPAFLY]

I just orderd some of these extended lug nuts. Should work great.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/hubconv/hub-6.htm

 

[cheesemaker]

The longer studs would be a better choice for sure. I've seen alot of those style of spacers come loose, on smaller tires. Watch for corrosion with those type of spacers too.

 

[SUPAFLY]

Will do.:awesomework:
They only reason I am hesitant on longer studs is because I just got the Warn 5 on 5.5 hub conversion installed and I'd have to take the entire hub and spindle assembly apart. If thats what it takes to be safe, that what I'll do.

 

[TigTorch]

I'm with Skrause. A general rule with thread engagement is one diameter of thread engagement for steel and 1 1/2 diameters for aluminum.

As a rule with wheel lugs you should have the studs protruding past the nuts. They go crazy with this on race cars; there are some regulations that require like an inch or two of thread prortusion.

Side note: I always antisieze lug threads and seats. I've had to cut off siezed studs more than once. This is a debateable procedure though and I believe prohibited on over the road trucks.......anyone, anyone ??

 

[Damnyankee]

3 threads past the nut is an engineering standard. or 1.5 x bolt diameter for tapped holes

at a bare minimum, i'd have the stud flush with the outside of a standard lug nut.

 

[Little Red Zuk]

Isn't that going to put you a bit wide for TTC?

 

[hwcurtice]

What if you're using the type of lug nuts that cover the stud? So that no threads are showing? Other than seeing if the wheel is still loose, wobble, how do you know if you've gone far enough to be sure?

Yes, I am serious. A wheel can feel tight. The lug doesn't tighten anymore, but if it had one or two more turns, it would really be tight.

Dang, now I'm confusing myself....

Someone decipher this...

 

[Damnyankee]

thats why i said a standard lug nut.

i fully understand what you said.

 

[hwcurtice]

thats why i said a standard lug nut.

i fully understand what you said.

I understood 'standard lugnut', I was just asking about the other type.

 

[SUPAFLY]

Isn't that going to put you a bit wide for TTC?

It will make me VERY close! If I fail tech, I can just pull the spacers and re-do it.

 

[zukkev]

[/QUOTE]Side note: I always antisieze lug threads and seats. I've had to cut off siezed studs more than once. This is a debateable procedure though and I believe prohibited on over the road trucks.......anyone, anyone ??[/QUOTE]

Never antiseize lug nuts; There are alot of wheel manufacturers that specifically state not to do so;not to mention vehicle manufacturers.
What happens is, when you use antiseize on the threads and the seats, and you torque the wheel(you torque the wheel to specs, right?), the antiseize acts as a lube, and the lug nut ends up over-torqued,stretching the wheel stud,effectively reducing the torque on the wheel.some OEM wheel studs are pretty soft, and are more susceptible to this than others.

 

[cheesemaker]

I've always used a tiny bit of never-seize on my studs. Just a tiny bit to keep the threads from galling. Mostly, I'll put some on and then wipe most of it off. Never had any problems. But I don't goop a ton of it on like most people do when they use never-seize. A tiny bit will go a long way. It's not recommended on studs, but I stick to what works for me. The 6 ounce bottle of never-seize I got has lasted 20 years for me, and I've still got over half a bottle left.