Is this enough penetration?

[tilt]

I haven't welded in 6-7 years and I just picked up a little Lincoln mig machine (Model is an SP 125 Plus that I picked up used. Its prob 10 years old, but looks and seems to function like brand new - the settings are identical to the 140s they sell now).

I am planning on doing some sliders and bumpers for my jeep.

I know the limitations and that I should have gotten a 220, but I rent my place and its a condo with a small garage, so I don't really have the option for 220 at the moment. I am still a few years off from buying my own place.

Anyways, I am using flux wire at the moment. It seems like the only way to weld the thicker stuff.

Here are some welds on 1/8". Is this good penetration? (I know they aren't the prettiest welds, but that is why i am practicing - before delving into a real project)

Any advice for using the 110 on 3/16? Bevel edges, settings, etc?

 

[Poohbair]

Turn your wire speed down

 

[Boonie Buster]

Even with flux wire (i'm assuming you have no gas) It looks very "pitty". Make sure your weld surface is CLEAN.

 

[Hip]

migs welders like clean shiny metal and dont want to stick well to mill scale.

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

Pick up some E71-T1 dual shield. Run it with gas and it will lay in there like butter on hot bread. It will also stick to metal that is not clean.

 

[POR]

That welder doesn't run hot enough for duel shield, I wouldn't recommend flux core wire, cuz a fter a few years the welds rot out and will fail. Get a small gas bottle and use hardwire, flux core is like stick you can weld through some dirty ass ****, its the hardwire that needs the super clean weld area

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

It will weld .030 dual shield just fine. Just use some 75/25 gas and your golden.

 

[BUILTnotBOT]

slower wire speed, clean your surface area better and change to hardwire (i like .030) with gas bottle (75/25 Argon CO2 works for me). It looks pitty on the ends and in between welds in certain spots but practice and learning your settings should fix that.

With my 140c Lincoln anytime im doing 3/16s its nearly all the way cranked and wire speed slowed down. Multiple passes are sometime necessary depending on weld purpose...

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Flux core is garbage and has NO bizz being used in our hobby/sport.

Unless you are making excavator buckets or welding up old dirty semi trailer then leave the flux core and dual shield to the huge dirty stuff.


You need a bottle and either .023 or .030. I would prefer the .030 but your machine might not burn it in real great. If it doesnt make enough heat to burn .030 then you might try .023 and turn the wire speed up a little more. The welder can put more of its power in the base metal and not waste some much of its (limited) power just melting the thicker .030

 

[tilt]

Thanks for the tips!

I'll definately clean the metal first and give that a go.

I was trying some different settings on the welder and I wasn't getting as nice of a crackle when the wire speed was low. THe settings for those welds were wire speed between 4-5 (out of 10) and the the power was set in the middle of G (volts go from A-J).

If I am getting that discoloration on the backside, am I penetrating deep enough?

Also, with that dual sheild, do run it in reverse polarity like the flux core?

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

When we build excavator or front end loader buckets, we don't use that flux core garbage. We use 1/16" hardwire or E71-T1 dual shield.

I use either .035 hardwire or .045 Dual shield in my welder here at home. Lincoln PowerMig 200.

 

[Fordzuki]

We use that same 125 at work and it's a good little machine running .30 and 75/25. It's mostly used for sheet metal (autobody), but I've cranked it up a couple times on some thicker stuff (1/8-3/16") and it's held it's own. For 3/16" I crank the volts up all the way and fine tune with the wire. It obviously won't do this all day, but for occasional stuff it works.
The only other advise I have is to do some destructive testing on some scrap that you've welded together, and see for yourself whether you want to be welding on your rig. :awesomework:

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

I agree w/most of the comments. Get some .023 or .030 wire and a gas kit. Flux core is for hobby **** and your machine isn't big enough to mess with dual shield. There is no way you should be set at half power on a 125 to weld sliders, that little bitch should be near maxed out.

 

[mark]

OK, give a crash course on "Dual-Shield". Why would I want it and what should I choose (quick web search showed Esab in particular makes 30+ different "dual shield" wire).

Miller 210, currently running .030 (or maybe it s .035, been a while since I've looked) and 75/25 gas. Weld quality has been going down. Probably cause I'm out of practice, but I'm also suspecting old wire. Current spool has been in there 6+ years wondering if its dirty/oxidising and that's effecting quality (not consistent, lots more splatter than I remember it being, difficult to get the nice "bacon" crackling, but welds are still strong).


A do blame a lot with user error (obviously I don't weld much if I have had the same wire for 6+ years!!)

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

When were running full speed at work, each welder will burn a 900lb box of wire a month.....:eeek:

 

[Birdbrain]

OK, give a crash course on "Dual-Shield". Why would I want it and what should I choose (quick web search showed Esab in particular makes 30+ different "dual shield" wire).

Miller 210, currently running .030 (or maybe it s .035, been a while since I've looked) and 75/25 gas. Weld quality has been going down. Probably cause I'm out of practice, but I'm also suspecting old wire. Current spool has been in there 6+ years wondering if its dirty/oxidising and that's effecting quality (not consistent, lots more splatter than I remember it being, difficult to get the nice "bacon" crackling, but welds are still strong).


A do blame a lot with user error (obviously I don't weld much if I have had the same wire for 6+ years!!)

Last time I checked, I think dualshield has a shelf life. And you could have rust particles on your wire if its been sitting around for 6+ years and moisture gets in there between the wire on the spool. If you dont weld much, just buy smaller spools to keep cost down if you wont use it up all that fast. C25 is a good gas for hardwire and dual shield! and as far as more splatter, you can try adjusting your gun angle, or turning your wire up, voltage down, stick out... theres a ton of little things you can do to fine tune it. When I run vertical up dual shield, my ideal setting leads to virtually no splatter and a real calm puddle. Just takes a lot of fine tuning! :awesomework:

 

[CarnationSensation]

Good tip for thick ****. Heat it up with a torch first. 30 to 60 seconds with a torch before you start on some cold steel will go a long way. It dont have to be an oxy set up either, just a small hand held bottle torch works just fine.
We got a lincoln 125 and we can weld 1/4" **** all day long. Never had anything break or crack.
I run .030 with a 75/25 argon. Only time i ever take it off full power is when welding sheet metal. Just adjust wire speed from there.
Practice Prcatice Practice. And good luck!

 

[tilt]

Good tip for thick ****. Heat it up with a torch first. 30 to 60 seconds with a torch before you start on some cold steel will go a long way. It dont have to be an oxy set up either, just a small hand held bottle torch works just fine.
We got a lincoln 125 and we can weld 1/4" **** all day long. Never had anything break or crack.
I run .030 with a 75/25 argon. Only time i ever take it off full power is when welding sheet metal. Just adjust wire speed from there.
Practice Prcatice Practice. And good luck!

Thanks-this is my plan

 

[boxboy]

OK, give a crash course on "Dual-Shield". Why would I want it and what should I choose (quick web search showed Esab in particular makes 30+ different "dual shield" wire).

Miller 210, currently running .030 (or maybe it s .035, been a while since I've looked) and 75/25 gas. Weld quality has been going down. Probably cause I'm out of practice, but I'm also suspecting old wire. Current spool has been in there 6+ years wondering if its dirty/oxidising and that's effecting quality (not consistent, lots more splatter than I remember it being, difficult to get the nice "bacon" crackling, but welds are still strong).


A do blame a lot with user error (obviously I don't weld much if I have had the same wire for 6+ years!!)

mark,

http://www.weldaid.com/lubematic.php

that is all,
Scott