yota8
Well-Known Member
How the hell does it work, what do you hook it to, how do you check the rights and wrongs? What do you usually want the shims at?
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Knuckle scale puller
- Thread starter yota8
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WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Hook it to the hole in the steering arm to pull and set the amount of preload on the bearings. Set the preload then pull the shims out and split them evenly between the top and bottom.
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
In addition to what Trashy said, you have to have the tie-rod, drag link, etc. disconnected, and leave off the rear (inboard on the knuckle) seals and wipers in order to get an accurate pre-load measurement.
You may not want them split exactly evenly.
If you're running Marlin's heavy inner axle seals, and put the spindle on, you will see if the longfield/birfield actually rides centered in the spindle. You may actually want to move some more shims to top or bottom.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
you dont need a scale to tell if a bearing is too loose or too tight.
ITS A KNUCKLE BEARING AND ONLY TURNS 35 DEGREES, TOPS!
Make that bitch tight and check for rollerbind (you can fell roller bearings getting notchy) then back it off till its smooth.
Ive had customers SOOOO worried about getting that dumb scale just to use it and not realize they had to replace the races (matched angles as bearing) only to have it fall apart anyways.
ITS A KNUCKLE BEARING AND ONLY TURNS 35 DEGREES, TOPS!
Make that bitch tight and check for rollerbind (you can fell roller bearings getting notchy) then back it off till its smooth.
Ive had customers SOOOO worried about getting that dumb scale just to use it and not realize they had to replace the races (matched angles as bearing) only to have it fall apart anyways.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
This shits like a timing light, if you need one, just close the hood. You will be better off.:corn:
Damnyankee
Well-Known Member
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
I have 3
And I've done the knuckle scale thing. And I've done the Toyota SST method of centering the knuckle on the housing. And now I've come to the conclusion that anything that gets wheeled will be taken apart often enough that knuckle centering is largely irrelevant, especially with Marlin's sweet new seals. I still *try* to get it somewhat centered, but I'm not going to track down the SST or bust out the big calipers and the calculator.
Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever had a bearing replacement that required an adjustment in shim pack thickness to get it to a reasonable preload. But I've seen some that were REALLY off-center and people couldn't figure out why the knuckle seals kept leaking gear oil
Damnyankee
Well-Known Member
i'm not a toyota guy, and have only put on.. 2-3 knuckles helping guys out.. its pretty easy really.
a bearing is a bearing is a bearing. doesn't really matter where it is, preloads and assemblies are the same principle
a bearing is a bearing is a bearing. doesn't really matter where it is, preloads and assemblies are the same principle
84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
I done it with and without. The only thing that comes to mind is to be sure to use it on holes equal distances from the pivot point of the knuckle, otherwise you will have different readings from one side to the other. Meaning, if you have one arm with two holes and one arm with one hole (hysteer, crossover, etc).
~T.J.
~T.J.
