knuckle stud torque?

wentz912 · Apr 19, 2010

Does anyone know for sure what my knuckle studs need to be torqued to? neither of the manuals i have have a listing for it, just that the nuts holding the arms on need to be at 62-79 ft-lb.

Also, when i took this axle that i am rebuilding apart, the steering arm on top didn't have any shims in between it and the knuckle. I'm not sure if this is normal and don't want to get it all put back together and be wrong.

dove'd85 · Apr 20, 2010

wentz912 said:
Does anyone know for sure what my knuckle studs need to be torqued to? neither of the manuals i have have a listing for it, just that the nuts holding the arms on need to be at 62-79 ft-lb.

not sure what the knuckle studs need to be torqued to for sure but im sure you can find that info on PBB

Also, when i took this axle that i am rebuilding apart, the steering arm on top didn't have any shims in between it and the knuckle. I'm not sure if this is normal and don't want to get it all put back together and be wrong.

alot of people don't put the correct amount of shims in when they rebuild/tear apart ect... i personally do. basically the shims set the trunion bearing preload. put shims in mount steering arm, torque to spec... i use a fish scale to measure the preload. it memory servse me correct it's around 8-12 lbs of preload

add or take out a few shims until you get the proper preload

wentz912 · Apr 20, 2010

so you think I could get away with putting the same shims i took out of the bottom back in and then just adjust the steering arm side?

dove'd85 · Apr 20, 2010

wentz912 said:
so you think I could get away with putting the same shims i took out of the bottom back in and then just adjust the steering arm side?

really only one way to find out.. if the axle came from a bone stock rig meaning not out of some one else's wheeler then chances are they are original and correct. but the fact that there are none in the top make me think otherwise

so the only way to no it to set it up check it. and adjust as need be