lincoln lockers.... Nissan

DiRtY Bill · Nov 16, 2009

ok so i've welded up a D30 before, and have been given lots of advise on welding up diff's. but these are all diff's with 2 spider gears and a really open carrier which makes it really easy to weld the gears up. so i pulled my spare 3rd member that i had laying around with the intention of welding it up solid. but being the space brained retard that i am forgot that the nissan diff's use (4) spider gears and a (2) piece carrier. like this:

so the question to the lincoln locker experts is this:
do i booger up what i can of the spiders and side gears through the 1" square "windows" ? or should i disassemble it and weld the spiders to the carrier, then weld the spider gears to the carrier and the one side gear and call it good? i have been told by some that you dont want to weld to the carrier, but does this only apply to thin D30 and D44 carriers?

zukkev · Nov 16, 2009

I actually prefer Miller lockers myself!!!:redneck::beer:
I would think you want to get the welds started before disassembly, then take it apart and finish it up properly...and as for welding a full carrier as these have, I don't see a problem as long as you take your time, not welding too much for too long.

Lincolnlock · Nov 17, 2009

You can totally weld these carriers. You just have to weld REALLY REALLY SLOW. Tack everything together before you disassemble it if you can. Again, tack, let cool, tack, let cool. Make sure it goes together again after each tack. My Mercedes Turbo Diesel is done this way. It's no sweat if you take your time.

boardbysled · Nov 17, 2009

It is a non-lsd diff right? Many of the H233b's came with factory LSD, ur pikture no worky, so i can't tell:redneck:

Damnyankee · Nov 17, 2009

like a 9" pain in the ass to weld.

DiRtY Bill · Nov 17, 2009

boardbysled said:
It is a non-lsd diff right? Many of the H233b's came with factory LSD, ur pikture no worky, so i can't tell:redneck:

the one im currently running is the LSD, the clutch packs are getting loose. so im gonna weld the snot out of the spare open diff i have.

thanks for the info guys, im going to open this thing up and take a looksee at what i have to weld to.

Damnyankee · Nov 17, 2009

bitemedoughboy.com said:
the one im currently running is the LSD, the clutch packs are getting loose. so im gonna weld the snot out of the spare open diff i have.

thanks for the info guys, im going to open this thing up and take a looksee at what i have to weld to.

good luck.

not going to be easy as there is no access from teh outside.
If you set the side gear in (one from the ring gear side) and weld it, and its out of place at all, you will tear up bearings and maybe not get it together properly.

Locrite.. 250 bucks. People have very good luck with them.

CHOP SHOP · Nov 17, 2009

Damnyankee said:
Locrite.. 250 bucks. BRad tore one up last time out..

Fixed.

My roomates locrite is is not happy either.

I forgot to mention that mine was made out of two broken ones aswell.

I took the good side from two bad locrites and assembled a good one. It made it about ten trips out.

Thats a total of three bad locrites from just two of them in the first place.

Is that good or bad? break a part three times when you only had two to begin with?

Damnyankee · Nov 17, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
Fixed.

My roomates locrite is is not happy either.

I forgot to mention that mine was made out of two broken ones aswell.

I took the good side from two bad locrites and assembled a good one. It made it about ten trips out.

Thats a total of three bad locrites from just two of them in the first place.

Is that good or bad? break a part three times when you only had two to begin with?

Brad, agreed they are not the best.
But i have yet to hear about a broken one in a nissan H233b rear end.
I know close to a dozen people that have run them and no issues.

the nissan rear end is a 4 trunion case and is very healthy. + they use the original side gears. they are actually pretty stout for a lunch box (for teh nissan anyay). :beer:

Spanaway Mudder · Nov 17, 2009

bitemedoughboy.com said:
the one im currently running is the LSD, the clutch packs are getting loose. so im gonna weld the snot out of the spare open diff i have.

thanks for the info guys, im going to open this thing up and take a looksee at what i have to weld to.

Sooooooooo When ya gunna Solid axle that mall crawler?:fawkdancesmiley:

CHOP SHOP · Nov 17, 2009

Damnyankee said:
I know close to a dozen people that have run them and no issues.

the nissan rear end is a 4 trunion case and is very healthy. + they use the original side gears. they are actually pretty stout for a lunch box (for teh nissan anyay). :beer:

I know over a dozen folks that own lockers and dont wheel too.

I will agree tho, the 4 gear ones seem to work better. I have had good luck with v6 toy ones, but after replacing/upgrading a half dozen broken 4 cyl ones, I will not recomend one again.

A failing locrite has helped me sell alot os Elockers lately.

Damnyankee · Nov 17, 2009

you have to remember too, that not many of the nissan guys are running crawler gears or doublers... let along both like me.

much less torque than a 4.7:1 toy case.

zukkev · Nov 17, 2009

I don't know about the nissans, but I thought I had a failed lockrite in my 8" front---took it apart only to find the lockrite gears looked almost new! closer inpection revealed a failed carrier--the bearings fell off when I took it out of the housing!!! Replaced carrier, and installed the new lockrite I had just because, and there has been 0 problems since! Anyone interested in a used 8" lockrite???

DiRtY Bill · Nov 17, 2009

Spanaway Mudder said:
Sooooooooo When ya gunna Solid axle that mall crawler?:fawkdancesmiley:

all in due time, unless you want to buy me the parts? i can email you a really long list with part numbers

boardbysled · Nov 17, 2009

bitemedoughboy.com said:
all in due time, unless you want to buy me the parts? i can email you a really long list with part numbers

once ya SAS it, ya will love it, ask me how i know:; ya should take some pictures of the process por pavor:awesomework:

O, an i did my SAS on a budget, just under a grand into it with the Calmini kit

Spanaway Mudder · Nov 18, 2009

bitemedoughboy.com said:
all in due time, unless you want to buy me the parts? i can email you a really long list with part numbers

snail mail it...then I can whipe my ass with it...:haha:

dont you know where a few fords are sitting to die in a field? there ya go... front n rear axles ready to go...

Damnyankee is running a ford front I beleave...

Damnyankee · Nov 18, 2009

Spanaway Mudder said:
snail mail it...then I can whipe my ass with it...:haha:

dont you know where a few fords are sitting to die in a field? there ya go... front n rear axles ready to go...

Damnyankee is running a ford front I beleave...

72 full width front end (1/2" thick axle tubes) with 78 outers, 9 3/8" housing rear out of same truck (3700lb 9")

DiRtY Bill · Nov 18, 2009

boardbysled said:
once ya SAS it, ya will love it, ask me how i know:; ya should take some pictures of the process por pavor:awesomework:

O, an i did my SAS on a budget, just under a grand into it with the Calmini kit

im gonna 3-link the front, with a HP44 via ballistic fab's parts and joints

boardbysled · Nov 18, 2009

bitemedoughboy.com said:
im gonna 3-link the front, with a HP44 via ballistic fab's parts and joints

that was my original plan, except with a waggy 44, but too much air time on the stock IFS caused me to go the leaf spring route, the leafs aint bad, but i do want to link it one day.:awesomework:

Damnyankee · Nov 18, 2009

a word of advice for anybody linking a nissan.
springs, pan hard and pitman arm will all be very close together. You will not have much space to push the front end forward. You will need to due to the short fenders and tires hitting the body.

You cannot move your steering box forward cause its already against the rad.

you can work around it.. just plan on it.