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Line lock current draw?

CrustyJeep

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Mar 27, 2006
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Brewery
Does anybody know how much current the average line lock pulls? Or can anybody tell me how many locks you have on what size fuse? Trying to design my wiring before having the locks in hand...
 
Toyotanut said:
shouldn't you be working on a rear end first?:flipoff: :stirpot:
At this point it doesn't matter. It all has to get done before it sees a trail. Not the line locks themselves, but the dash is being rebuilt so I need to design the wiring for when I get them. :flipoff:
 
CrustyJeep said:
So they don't draw very much? Cool :D


its just a magnet valve. If your using one thats like a nitrous one. ( I cant think of the name right now)
 
CrustyJeep said:
Why and why?

Personally, I've seen the hurst "roll control" fail more often than not. When I talked to the manufacturer about it, they said that the roll control was meant to be used at the lights of a race track for 4-8 seconds at a time. If you are wanting to use it for longer periods of time, the magnet can get hot and start to fade causing "slippage" in the brakes. They DO NOT recommend the roll control for a wheeling application. FWIW, the hurst uses 4 amps.

I have been using the Biondo line lock for years now in my rig, and I've installed dozens of these into customers rigs. Most ppl love them, but some say they don't always hold. Either way, if you choose to run these, you can get them through summit (part number SBR-LL). They draw up to 1.5 amps each.

Trevor
 
CrustyJeep said:
Why and why?

I've had them for about 15 years as an auxilary brake on a couple of different rigs. The Hurst has lasted for years, whereas the other one I got was getting warranteed about every 4 or 5 months (can't remember the manufacturer, but got it at the race car shop).

Secondly, my original design had the Line lock mounted on the framerail, right after the factory 79 CJ proportioning valve and controlled just the rear brakes. Repeated dunking in water caused a short in the solinoid. By rerouteing the brake line up towards the master cylinder, and then installing the line lock, then routing back down again prevented this re-occurance.

Thirdly, I wire them for both a toggle switch and a momentary on switch. This way you can lock the brakes, let off the pedal, load the clutch and let go the switch and not roll back while on "ohshit" hills, -or- flip the switch and leave it on for a couple of minutes.

And for what its worth, I've never had a magnet get warm and slip like Trevor said. But at the same time I've never walked away from the Jeep and put myself in a position for a problem

Lastly, if you do stall the motor, and restart it, the current draw of the starter will cause the line lock to loose polarity and release. So be aware.
 

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