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- Thread starter crash2
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My 2 cents, after seeing a lot of rigs in and out now and what works, doesn't work, what fails, what wears out, etc.
In my opinion the best joints on the market are the Rock Krawler Kralwer joints. They are similar in design to a johnny joint but have some real though put behind them.
First of all, their race design kicks ass. Doesn't ride/cushion quite as much as a johnny joint, but articulates very smoothly and they hold up really well. To date, we have not had to replace and of the races.
Second, they use a threaded body instead of just a washer and snap ring. The benefit to that is that you can pre load the bushing a little bit, and as they do start to get a little bit of slop in them you can tighten them a bit before they need to be rebuilt.
Third, since they have that threaded design they are MUCH easier to service. If you've done a johnny joint, you know what a pain in the ass it can be to keep the bushing halves lined up and compress it to get the snap ring in.
In my opinion the best joints on the market are the Rock Krawler Kralwer joints. They are similar in design to a johnny joint but have some real though put behind them.
First of all, their race design kicks ass. Doesn't ride/cushion quite as much as a johnny joint, but articulates very smoothly and they hold up really well. To date, we have not had to replace and of the races.
Second, they use a threaded body instead of just a washer and snap ring. The benefit to that is that you can pre load the bushing a little bit, and as they do start to get a little bit of slop in them you can tighten them a bit before they need to be rebuilt.
Third, since they have that threaded design they are MUCH easier to service. If you've done a johnny joint, you know what a pain in the ass it can be to keep the bushing halves lined up and compress it to get the snap ring in.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I am definitely going to have to look into these more...
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
The more I get into agriculture, I feel as if I could benefit from a JJ style joint.
Nothing plows a rut quite like a joint the size of a football. I may put one on the back of the dozer come spring for some ripping duty.
Nothing plows a rut quite like a joint the size of a football. I may put one on the back of the dozer come spring for some ripping duty.
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
Looks like those Rock Krawler joints only come in metric bolt sizes?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So Ruffstuff has a 20% sale till tonight..
So I am at a toss between the 7/8x7/8 or 7/8x3/4... Anybody run the 7/8 to 5/8" misalignment spacers?
So I am at a toss between the 7/8x7/8 or 7/8x3/4... Anybody run the 7/8 to 5/8" misalignment spacers?
ChrisStewart
Well-Known Member
7/8 x7/8 with 5/8 zinc misalignments. I like them like I said before I haven't had a bad experience with ruffstuff once. You'll be happy especially with 20% off.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So you do run the 5/8" misalignment inserts chris?
I have a VERY large selection of 5/8" bolts and currently running 5/8" bolts now with zero issues. I just wanna make sure they don't get worn out easily and cause play.
Still on the fence as to what to run for the uppers.
ChrisStewart
Well-Known Member
Yes, I run the 7/8 to 5/8 misalignment spacers. I'm running all the same heims for my upper and lowers. I probably would have tried to go bigger on the lowers but i don't think they'd fit on a bravo belly. I never did check though. It makes keeping spare links easy though. I think Clark is running 5/8 bolts too, can't be 100% sure though.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
And no clanking at all?
I will be going alum links on the lowers for sure--not sure on the uppers as of yet.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I was wondering the same and went thru all there dimential data and found its all metric.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks for everybody's input.
I went and ordered 7/8x7/8 rod ends with the 7/8x5/8 misalignment inserts and save $100 on there year end sale.
I went and ordered 7/8x7/8 rod ends with the 7/8x5/8 misalignment inserts and save $100 on there year end sale.
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
Curious why aluminum for the lowers?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Super strong. Many guys here in the pnw run them with no failures..
ChrisStewart
Well-Known Member
7075 links take a beating and they're light.
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
It seems like the aluminum would be best on the uppers as less rock wear and reduction of weight up higher?
Less weight is always better, thanks for the info fellas!
Less weight is always better, thanks for the info fellas!
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
Aluminum is actually worse for the uppers as it bends a bit more and the upper links generally see high compression forces. Uppers you can just run .120 wall steel and be fine.
7075 has good tensile strength and memory, so it may bend when slammed against a rock, but will bend back to its original shape much more readily then steel.
Not sure if I explained that quite right, but thats the way I understand it.
7075 has good tensile strength and memory, so it may bend when slammed against a rock, but will bend back to its original shape much more readily then steel.
Not sure if I explained that quite right, but thats the way I understand it.
Alluminum is fine for running on your uppers it's not gonna fail from compression forces... unless your link geometry is that wacked.. it's definitely way stronger than .120 Dom steel for that application.
