looking to get a drive line made

NOISYBOY · May 28, 2013

im looking to get a rear dl made. anybody know of a good place, nw dl is just to expansive. i have heard of a place in yelm i think thats pretty good but dont recall the name.

WA-Wheeler · May 28, 2013

Make your own.......

timothy · May 28, 2013

Scroll down to Tech write ups/How to's. There you will find D I Y how to drive line good luck. ( CHEERS):beer:

nickb · May 28, 2013

If you are starting from scratch a fair price would probably be $450 with all new parts... if you sourced parts and just had it made it shouldn't be more than $150 with .120 wall dom. That's what I charge people.

BUILTnotBOT · May 28, 2013

the place in yelm is advance(d?) drivelines. Ive used them once and it was spendy, having dlines made always is...

Since them ive done them all myself. It isnt that tough just take your time, plenty of write ups on it throughout the interweb...

Dogboy · May 28, 2013

I used Aukeen driveshaft ( (253) 395-0392) in Kent for my Ranger after a doubler. Fordzuki helped me do the front shaft though. For a front I'm not worried about the vibration, but for a rear, I'd use Aukeen again in a heartbeat.
I don't recall a price, but I know he used thicker walled material than a factory shaft.

!ton327 · May 28, 2013

Advanced dlines in yelm, Dave builds some sweet dlines sometimes expensive but if you know the right people its not to bad

nickb · May 28, 2013

Dogboy said:
I used Aukeen driveshaft ( (253) 395-0392) in Kent for my Ranger after a doubler. Fordzuki helped me do the front shaft though. For a front I'm not worried about the vibration, but for a rear, I'd use Aukeen again in a heartbeat.
I don't recall a price, but I know he used thicker walled material than a factory shaft.

I have used aukeen a couple times before I got my lathe. I talked to him and he gave me some tips and how much runout is acceptable without having to balance them.

mark · May 29, 2013

Last time I looked into getting a shaft made I called around and was finding the same $400+ or so for local. On a whim I dropped the 'onetoncv' (Jess IIRC, can't remember his actual shop name) guy off Pirate a PM and was vary much surprised when he came back with something like $200 or $250 SHIPPED to my door. All USA parts (or as much as he could) I think as well (not that that matters a ton to me). I ended up finding a used shaft that worked for me, but it was a big enough difference that if I had the time I would hit him up again.

That was 2 or so years ago....

Dogboy · May 29, 2013

I forgot to add, I used Aukeen 3 years ago. He used my drive shaft, and basically turned a 2 piece shaft into a 1 piece using my ends, with a new tube, with new u-joints, and I want to say it was $285, but I'm not positive.

Poohbair · May 29, 2013

WA-Wheeler said:
Make your own.......

.... for a wheeler or weekend warrior, this ^^^^^^

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

timothy said:
Scroll down to Tech write ups/How to's. There you will find D I Y how to drive line good luck. ( CHEERS):beer:

looked there but thats just for a ssquare dl?

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

BUILTnotBOT said:
the place in yelm is advance(d?) drivelines. Ive used them once and it was spendy, having dlines made always is...

Since them ive done them all myself. It isnt that tough just take your time, plenty of write ups on it throughout the interweb...

really i heared they were pretty reasonable

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

mark said:
Last time I looked into getting a shaft made I called around and was finding the same $400+ or so for local. On a whim I dropped the 'onetoncv' (Jess IIRC, can't remember his actual shop name) guy off Pirate a PM and was vary much surprised when he came back with something like $200 or $250 SHIPPED to my door. All USA parts (or as much as he could) I think as well (not that that matters a ton to me). I ended up finding a used shaft that worked for me, but it was a big enough difference that if I had the time I would hit him up again.

That was 2 or so years ago....

ok thanks ill looking to that

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

nickb said:
If you are starting from scratch a fair price would probably be $450 with all new parts... if you sourced parts and just had it made it shouldn't be more than $150 with .120 wall dom. That's what I charge people.

thats useing the stock shaft parts. an putting 120 wall dom. so you think the slip part is long enough? i just got done linking it an doing a flat belly

nickb · May 29, 2013

It depends on how your suspension is set up. The front of my leaf sprung Toyota uses all of the 10" slip. My buddy did a sas and put the shackles in front like a Jeep and it only travels a few inches.

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

nickb said:
It depends on how your suspension is set up. The front of my leaf sprung Toyota uses all of the 10" slip. My buddy did a sas and put the shackles in front like a Jeep and it only travels a few inches.

so then i should measure ride hite an full drop then that should give me a ruff idea

CarnationSensation · May 29, 2013

If you make your own, take your time. My first one i thought i had everything lined up. The slip side turned out perfect but the non slip side was off a hair. Couldnt hardly feel unless goin 25 and over so i figured it be ok. Couple weeks later i needed a new bearing for the output shaft on the t case. I then remade my drive line and took my time. Never been balanced and cant feel it goin over 50.

The rear dont use nearly as much slip as the front due to the diff being center (im assuming your rear diff is centered). I run the stock slip in the rear for a yota and have never had an issue. It only uses about 3" of the shaft and i have a good amout of articulation. But i run leafs. My buddy runs links front and rear and he has a stock yota driveline. Has never pulled out.

NOISYBOY · May 29, 2013

CarnationSensation said:
If you make your own, take your time. My first one i thought i had everything lined up. The slip side turned out perfect but the non slip side was off a hair. Couldnt hardly feel unless goin 25 and over so i figured it be ok. Couple weeks later i needed a new bearing for the output shaft on the t case. I then remade my drive line and took my time. Never been balanced and cant feel it goin over 50.

The rear dont use nearly as much slip as the front due to the diff being center (im assuming your rear diff is centered). I run the stock slip in the rear for a yota and have never had an issue. It only uses about 3" of the shaft and i have a good amout of articulation. But i run leafs. My buddy runs links front and rear and he has a stock yota driveline. Has never pulled out.

ok thanks for the info