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Mighty MO

Lil ugly

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Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
673
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
I purchased a harness from Painless to do my buggy. I purchased a full universal harness. In hindsight which is always 20/20 i would just buy there offroad harness and add the few additional circuits i needed as it would have been about half the cost. Everything was high quality, and well labeled. The instructions were clear. I need to install my tranny to start the motor but I have not found any problems yet while testing on the battery alone.
 

ridered3

Not Rigless
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
6,362
Location
Rockvale, TN
How about some recommendations on where to buy a new harness? PSI, Holley, ?????

Sho-ME Speed in Springfield, MO did the harness and reflash on our rig. But then again it came from the next town over from Springfield, MO so it was local to the seller. They do tuning etc for some of the Ultra4 and bouncer guys too.

Seems to work just fine, but only had it 10 days.

 

Sawzall

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
598
Wayne Hartwig (150 Tunes) did my original tune by mail on a stock LQ4. They do harness conversions also but I did my own.
http://www.150tunes.com/index.html

Steve's Performance in Lebanon TN did my dyno tuning on my new engine. They do a lot of LS conversions into just about everything.
 
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Trailabite

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Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
Motor and tranny are in.
 

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Trailabite

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Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
So, I installed solid motor mounts and was planning on solid mounts for the tranny as well. But then I started looking around and it seems a lot of people still put a poly bushing on the transmission mount due to flexing of the frame. If I'm tying the roll cage to the frame wouldn't that stiffen the frame enough to eliminate a lot of the frame flex? If, so, then solid mounts all they around should be ok, right?

Second question - On my doubler there is a 3/4" aluminum plate between the 203 and the 205. If I make a support bracket and mount it here can I get by without a support bracket for the transmission?
 

Lil ugly

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Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
673
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
I did not go back to see what tranny you were running, but there is a consistent issue with cracking bellhousings in "newer" tranny's that are solid mounted. I am speaking of 4L80 and 4l60. Both of those tranny's require the dust cover be installed as it is a structural component in the tranny and are recommended to not be solid mounted. I would poly mount the tranny and motor, run a cross member for tranny and support for the 205. The tailhousing is not designed to take the leverage that you will put on it by leaving out the transmission support. Just my opinion, but for the little effort that building a crossmember and support takes it beats getting pullled of the trail with major damage due to failure in a casting.
 

Trailabite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
I did not go back to see what tranny you were running, but there is a consistent issue with cracking bellhousings in "newer" tranny's that are solid mounted. I am speaking of 4L80 and 4l60. Both of those tranny's require the dust cover be installed as it is a structural component in the tranny and are recommended to not be solid mounted. I would poly mount the tranny and motor, run a cross member for tranny and support for the 205. The tailhousing is not designed to take the leverage that you will put on it by leaving out the transmission support. Just my opinion, but for the little effort that building a crossmember and support takes it beats getting pullled of the trail with major damage due to failure in a casting.

I have a 4l65e which is the same as the 4l60. I found a few articles today that mentioned not to solid mount the transmission. So poly it is. Thanks.
 

Trailabite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
So, I'm thinking on building a sub-frame support that will attach to the transmission, the middle of the double and the back of the 205 with four connection points at the frame (two in the front & two in the rear). Should I use poly bushings at all connection points or only at the devices and hard mount to the frame or hard mount to the devices and use poly only at the frame?
 

TBItoy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
10,678
Location
Dodson Branch, TN
I'd put single poly mounts in-line for the trans mount and tcase tail shaft, and hard mount the subframe/skiplate at the frame rail.
 

Lil ugly

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
673
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Personally i think it is six of one/half dozen of another. but I think you should be consistent on your method for the entire drivetrain. Solid to unit and poly at the chassis or vice versa, but not mixed.
 

Trailabite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
Not sure if this was a good move or not lol, but what is done is done. Cut 10" out of the frame to shorten the wheelbase down to 108". I will probably move the front out 2" to 4" to end up between 110" to 112" overall.
 

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Trailabite

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Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
A few small updates. It's been to hot to play out in the garage and work is keeping me busier than I would like lol.

After I installed the doubler I noticed that it was hanging past the frame so I decided to re-clock it and move it up. Which then caused me to cut out a lot of the new floor that I put in and now, of course, it's to high. I want to put it flat but with the double kit I bought the shifting arm on the 205 lands in the same place where the vent is installed on the 203. I thought about relocating the vent but I just don't want to mess with that heavy chunk of iron again......if the passenger seat can fit I will probably leave it where it is.

I also started putting together a sub-frame for the tranny and doubler.
 

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Trailabite

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Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
Not much to report about. Seems like I just keep re-working things and not getting very far. I took the doubler back out and re-clocked it. I couldn't take it being up through the passenger floor board. Now I'm hung up trying to brace/support the transmission. The plan is to keep everything up between the frame rails but, after I reclocked the 205 if I use a single cross member it will stick below the frame. So now I'm thinking I will just add four points to the sub-frame to tie it off using bushings at the frame end.
 

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Trailabite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
338
Location
Clarksville, TN
I finally finished bracing the transmission and the doubler. Bent some tubing for the first time.
 

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