Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
... or Mercury :flipoff:
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- Thread starter Poohbair
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... or Mercury :flipoff:
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
.. so I need a GOOD T5 from a 5.0 Mustang.
The one that I originally bought and swapped in has been ****ed up since the day it went in the car.
I am not having much luck finding a GOOD used one.
I found a rebuilt World Class T5 from a 94/95 (sn95) Mustang. These appear to be pretty close to what I need, however it appears as if it has a longer input shaft, longer bellhousing, moves the shifter back 1", and makes the driveline 1" shorter, and you have to use a diff starter.
I have room for the shifter to move, I am going to PROBABLY have to shorten my driveline anyway for the 8.8 swap.
The biggest issues that I have is the guy wants a bit more for the tranny than I want to spend... plus $125 for a starter, plus crossmember mods... in the end I would be very close to the same price as just buying a rebuilt T5, or taking mine to a shop to have it rebuilt...
From what I hear, the WC SN95 tranny is a bit stronger...
Just throwing **** against a wall here looking for any advise or opinions... or looking for someone that knows where I can get a good fox body T5!
The one that I originally bought and swapped in has been ****ed up since the day it went in the car.
I am not having much luck finding a GOOD used one.
I found a rebuilt World Class T5 from a 94/95 (sn95) Mustang. These appear to be pretty close to what I need, however it appears as if it has a longer input shaft, longer bellhousing, moves the shifter back 1", and makes the driveline 1" shorter, and you have to use a diff starter.
I have room for the shifter to move, I am going to PROBABLY have to shorten my driveline anyway for the 8.8 swap.
The biggest issues that I have is the guy wants a bit more for the tranny than I want to spend... plus $125 for a starter, plus crossmember mods... in the end I would be very close to the same price as just buying a rebuilt T5, or taking mine to a shop to have it rebuilt...
From what I hear, the WC SN95 tranny is a bit stronger...
Just throwing **** against a wall here looking for any advise or opinions... or looking for someone that knows where I can get a good fox body T5!
leadfoot067
Well-Known Member
have you trolled the mustang forums?
Mallcrawler83
Well-Known Member
Lookin good:awesomework:
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
hmmmmmmmmmmmm....
Was thinking of trying to rebuild it, but didn't want it down for that long if I didn't have too...
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
.. picked up a used T5 today...
Hope it works good... if not, I told the guy I will remember where he lives... :redneck:
Hope it works good... if not, I told the guy I will remember where he lives... :redneck:
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
So I have the tranny to put in.
Today I ordered wheel spacers... I hope they are the right ones... they are expensive!
Also ordered GT/Comp Handeling rear leaf springs (supposed to sit about 1" lower, and have a higher spring rate to improve handeling and reduce axle wrap) along with a new shackle kit, ubolts, and spring perches to weld on the new rearend...
Hopefully on saturday I can get time to pull the springs out of the front, figure out what is making this GOD AWFUL squeek that the car has done since I put the new front suspension in, figure out if I need to replace any other steering parts.. and then get it scheduled for an alignment... if I have time I will get the new tranny stuck in it as well.
Today I ordered wheel spacers... I hope they are the right ones... they are expensive!
Also ordered GT/Comp Handeling rear leaf springs (supposed to sit about 1" lower, and have a higher spring rate to improve handeling and reduce axle wrap) along with a new shackle kit, ubolts, and spring perches to weld on the new rearend...
Hopefully on saturday I can get time to pull the springs out of the front, figure out what is making this GOD AWFUL squeek that the car has done since I put the new front suspension in, figure out if I need to replace any other steering parts.. and then get it scheduled for an alignment... if I have time I will get the new tranny stuck in it as well.
leadfoot067
Well-Known Member
nice:awesomework:
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
... hard to imagine why the blinkers dont work... this is just 1 jumble **** in the major jumble **** of a system that the blinkers are...
so then I got into the frontend... trying to get rid of the SQUEAK that it has had since I installed the new front suspension...
So it got torn apart... all the synthetic bushings greased.. put back together... SQUEAK!!!
Taken partially apart again... removed some parts that might squeak, put back together... SQUEAK!!
Took it all apart again, and pulled the upper control arms off. This is when I realized I am retarded. Apparently the control arms have some threaded holes in the ends for GREASE. I had no zerk fittings on them, and no grease. Off to the parts house, zerks installed, control arms installed... fantastic. Still a touch of a squeak now and then, but I am sure it will take a bit of time for the grease to work its way around in there and get it all lubed up, but it is already 99% better than it was. Also found that the idler arm was about to fall off and got that all tightned back up. Drives way better with less steering wheel play!
so then I got into the frontend... trying to get rid of the SQUEAK that it has had since I installed the new front suspension...
So it got torn apart... all the synthetic bushings greased.. put back together... SQUEAK!!!
Taken partially apart again... removed some parts that might squeak, put back together... SQUEAK!!
Took it all apart again, and pulled the upper control arms off. This is when I realized I am retarded. Apparently the control arms have some threaded holes in the ends for GREASE. I had no zerk fittings on them, and no grease. Off to the parts house, zerks installed, control arms installed... fantastic. Still a touch of a squeak now and then, but I am sure it will take a bit of time for the grease to work its way around in there and get it all lubed up, but it is already 99% better than it was. Also found that the idler arm was about to fall off and got that all tightned back up. Drives way better with less steering wheel play!
Moose
Well-Known Member
I think '65-66 Mustangs and '67-68 Cougars have the best Fomoco styling of all time 
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
Wheel spacers showed up yesterday, so I can test fit the new tires and wheels.
I am going to try and get an appt to get it aligned this week. I hope everything fits.
I am going to try and get an appt to get it aligned this week. I hope everything fits.
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
I got some of the GT / Comp Handling springs that showed up today... look good...
And from the same place I ordered new 1/2" ubolts, new shackle kit, and spring perches for the new axle...
Now I just need to get a yoke for the rearend, and get the rear axle cleanded up and it is ready to go in. I will figure out what is going on with the driveline length, brake lines and e-brake cables after I get the rearend in...
I can't wait to drive this thing with 4.10's... it is already fun with the 2.79's!
And from the same place I ordered new 1/2" ubolts, new shackle kit, and spring perches for the new axle...
Now I just need to get a yoke for the rearend, and get the rear axle cleanded up and it is ready to go in. I will figure out what is going on with the driveline length, brake lines and e-brake cables after I get the rearend in...
I can't wait to drive this thing with 4.10's... it is already fun with the 2.79's!
Totalled
That Ford Guy
Any reason you're not using the u joint flange from an exploder drive line and keeping the 8.8 flange instead of swapping to the yoke?
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
This...especially if you're gonna end up doing some driveline work anyway...:corn:
Poohbair
Pabst O'Holic
That is what I am talking about... I need the yoke that bolts to the 8.8 rear axle, and will use a 1310 / 1330 conversion joint to convert to my existing driveline ... but I think I am going to need to get it shortened anyways... wont know until the 8.8 is swapped in...
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
That flange is a Spicer part # 2-2-1379, like $40 from any Spicer dealer.
