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my 99 f350 suspension!

lilpain

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
65
Location
Olympia
so i have a 1999 f350 7.3, 6 turner chip, garette turbo, 4" straight pipe, and built automatic tranny. i hate how my front end rides. its really ruff and sways like crazy, it has a small lift with 35's. does anyone know about the coil convertion kit? i found one, wondering if there is a cheaper kit. "i dont wanna make a homemade kit" i want it to look factory. lol thx in advance! heres the kit i found http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/products/sfID1/4/sfID2/819/sfID3/826/productID/39369

my ford :)
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:D
 
I have seen a few guys on some of the truck forums hack the parts off of a newer coil suspension truck (I think it was 05 when they first came out? maybe 03) and weld it to there frame and axle. Lots of work but I know the difference between my 05 dodge with coils and my 95 ford with leafs. :redneck:

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126510&highlight=coil+suspension

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24998&highlight=suspension+conversion

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98144&highlight=suspension+conversion

I think I would really just look into getting a full front clip from a junk yard.
 
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Just ditch the lift kit crap and put it back to stock. Really, big gay lift and big gay tires then bitch because it drives like crap.:awesomework:
 
Your steering problem is most likely the Ball joints.

The factory ford balljoints were supposed to be greaseless "lifetime". What they actually are is junk. If you get 10k miles out of them, your doing better than most!

Yard the ball joints out, and replace them with something with a grease zirk. I think I have Moogs in mine.

You might also need to take your steering box and either try to tighten it yourself, or take it to Red Head steering in seattle and let them go thru it. You can do it yourself by releasing the locknut and turning the adjuster like 1/16th at a time then take it for a drive. Too tight and you'll destroy the gears tho.

Red Head can also make it so your brake hydroboost doesnt steal all your power steering when trying to turn the wheel with your foot on the brake, such as when backing up a trailer.

You may also need to find a shop that really knows how to align these trucks. Just because its "in spec" does not equal a good steering truck. These trucks need a little more love in the alignment dept than your average econobox. You may even need a little caster shim between the springs and axle.

As for the ride, tires really make a difference on these trucks. Also dont run FULL air pressure unless your loaded. Knock 5 or 10 lbs out of them to soften the tire a little bit, without eating into your MPG too badly. More out in the rear than the front, as these powerstrokes are way nose heavy.

Your link to the 4-link setup is pretty cool. 1500 bucks is not a bad price. I paid 1700 just to convert my unit bearing hubs to standard fixed spindle. These trucks eat up the unit bearing on 35" tires if your wheel offset is too far out. Mine is pushed way out so I dont run the springs with my 35s. I hit the fenders instead... uhg.
 
Just ditch the lift kit crap and put it back to stock. Really, big gay lift and big gay tires then bitch because it drives like crap.:awesomework:

This is good advice, you should take it. :cheer:
 
Just ditch the lift kit crap and put it back to stock. Really, big gay lift and big gay tires then bitch because it drives like crap.:awesomework:

This is good advice, you should take it. :cheer:

^^^^^this^^^^^
I have an 01 excursion with the 7.3l. I thought about lifting it but after talking to some friends and riding in their lifted trucks I've decided to keep it stock, as soon as you lift it the ride goes to **** and a lift doesnt help you tow. The wife drives it mostly but I bought it to pull my 30' weekend warrior. The only thing I'm going to do is re arch the rear springs and have an overload put on so it doesn't squat so much when the trailer is on.
 
Your steering problem is most likely the Ball joints.

The factory ford balljoints were supposed to be greaseless "lifetime". What they actually are is junk. If you get 10k miles out of them, your doing better than most!

Yard the ball joints out, and replace them with something with a grease zirk. I think I have Moogs in mine.

You might also need to take your steering box and either try to tighten it yourself, or take it to Red Head steering in seattle and let them go thru it. You can do it yourself by releasing the locknut and turning the adjuster like 1/16th at a time then take it for a drive. Too tight and you'll destroy the gears tho.

Red Head can also make it so your brake hydroboost doesnt steal all your power steering when trying to turn the wheel with your foot on the brake, such as when backing up a trailer.

You may also need to find a shop that really knows how to align these trucks. Just because its "in spec" does not equal a good steering truck. These trucks need a little more love in the alignment dept than your average econobox. You may even need a little caster shim between the springs and axle.

As for the ride, tires really make a difference on these trucks. Also dont run FULL air pressure unless your loaded. Knock 5 or 10 lbs out of them to soften the tire a little bit, without eating into your MPG too badly. More out in the rear than the front, as these powerstrokes are way nose heavy.

Your link to the 4-link setup is pretty cool. 1500 bucks is not a bad price. I paid 1700 just to convert my unit bearing hubs to standard fixed spindle. These trucks eat up the unit bearing on 35" tires if your wheel offset is too far out. Mine is pushed way out so I dont run the springs with my 35s. I hit the fenders instead... uhg.

Thx for the good advice! alot of jokers on here:awesomework: I forgot to tell i got hydro assist on this :awesomework:
 
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X1000 on the Moog balljoints + use Moog or Energy sway bar bushings as the stock ones die very quickly.

Why did you install hydo assist on it? I've driven lots of these trucks with lots of weight on the front tires and if everything is working correctly steering force wasn't an issue.

How many miles on it? I'm thinking changing out the whole suspension is a can of worms compared to fixing what may be worn out. That being said, I do work on the leaf sprung SD front ends more often than the coiled ones on our fleet trucks.
 
it already had the hydro, i bought this truck with 195K miles, it now has 212k miles, tranny was built at 190k,miles with paperwork. im 19 and i dont wanna upgrade to a new truck cuz of the ride, thats why i figure $1500 and some labor is better than $50k for a new truck ;)
 
Stock sucks, a quality lift will still give you just as good of a ride, if not better then stock.. Nice lookin truck. A little tall for the tire size on it, but still looks good. :awesomework:
 
A little tall for the tire size on it, but still looks good. :awesomework:

He's running 35s. You cant go any bigger without significant changes to the front end or tons and tons of lift. Although if he goes with the coil setup, he could get a 37 under there, suck it under the fender well and not have the clearance issues he would have with leafs.

I run 35s on my truck with a 6" lift. Book says I can run a 37, but only if its like a 10.5 wide tire. When you get into the 12.5 and 13.5 wide tires, you have to push them out, or rub the leaf springs and lose turning radius. But when you push them out, you eat unit bearings alive, and you rub the front bumper and aft side of the wheel well at the door jamb.

The steering on these trucks is mediocre at best, especially when you get a big lift and big tires. Hydro assist is one option, but another option is a true crossover steering. Raises the tierod to the top of the knuckle, and you go back to a stock drop pitman arm and your steering geometry goes back to normal and I guess they drive like a dream.
 
^^^^^this^^^^^
I have an 01 excursion with the 7.3l. I thought about lifting it but after talking to some friends and riding in their lifted trucks I've decided to keep it stock, as soon as you lift it the ride goes to **** and a lift doesnt help you tow. The wife drives it mostly but I bought it to pull my 30' weekend warrior. The only thing I'm going to do is re arch the rear springs and have an overload put on so it doesn't squat so much when the trailer is on.

Just bag the rear...that way your ride quality when empty isn't compromised...<<<---Likely cheaper than re-arching (which isn't the greatest idea to begin with.), and adding an overload....
 

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