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My Ford! My Ford! My Ford! part 2

Started the header install. The rear port, rear bolt on the passenger side was broke off when I bought the truck. Of course the other bolt on the port would break on removal since it was the last bolt to be removed... :rolleyes:

So I spent the last two weekends drilling them out. I finally got the passenger side header on. Hopefully I'll get the rest done this coming weekend.
 

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I saw those pictures on Facebook, I was assuming you were working on the old Mustang since the heads looked so rough.
 
I did more things! :cheer: Just need to weld the extension to the y-pipe tomorrow and the hard parts over. :D
 

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Spark plug wires, intake tubes, and I should be ready to see what this does. :cheer:
 

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Started the header install. The rear port, rear bolt on the passenger side was broke off when I bought the truck. Of course the other bolt on the port would break on removal since it was the last bolt to be removed... :rolleyes:

So I spent the last two weekends drilling them out. I finally got the passenger side header on. Hopefully I'll get the rest done this coming weekend.

I got a feeling this is what I'm going to find when I get around to fixing the leak on mine. I swapped out the battery tray today and noticed while I was in there that whatever goof already tried to fix it stacked washers under several of the bolts, those are gonna be fun.
 
It's worth it. It no longer sounds like the redneck express from the manifold leak, and it makes torque now. It feels like a 460, instead of: "that's it, that's what a efi 460 gives me?"
 
When I put JBA shorty headers on my 351W I gained some MPGs. Went from 10ish to 13.5ish

How hard was replacing the headliner and the seat foam? Those are on the to-do list for me.

Also, how well do those LEDs dim for you? The lights behind my dash are on their way out, slowly, and one by one. I don't like super bright lights coming from my dash; I like to be able to see out my windows at night. And I like the sound of LED's, but again, questioning the dimablility of them.
 
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Headliner is pretty easy. The seat foam is more work, but I only had to cut one hog ring. Everything else was a plastic clip or velcro attachment.

They dim pretty well. Can't speak for what ebay or amazon LEDs would do. They dim more than the autometer gauge.

Dimmed, and full blast.
 

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Deleted the factory oil cooler. They are known to fail and pump coolant into the oil.
 

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Good stuff Pat. Your truck is super clean. I need to look at the cooler on mine and do a delete. Where'd you get the replacement adapter to put in place and what lower hose do you run after the delete's done?

Curious what donor rig you pulled the 3G alternator from... Taurus?

Those headers are really nice. Definitely adding those to my list. :bling:

Here's my 94. Only difference is a ZF-5.

1057ba964ab2725.jpg
 
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Good stuff Pat. Your truck is super clean. I need to look at the cooler on mine and do a delete. Where'd you get the replacement adapter to put in place and what lower hose do you run after the delete's done?

Curious what donor rig you pulled the 3G alternator from... Taurus?

Those headers are really nice. Definitely adding those to my list. :bling:

Here's my 94. Only difference is a ZF-5.

Nice. Here's my detailed post, #237 in this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/901856-7-5l-ford-460-oil-cooler-heat-exchanger-failure-16.html

The adapter is the Ford Racing M-6880-A50 90* adapter. Summit has it. I searched e-bay for the lowest price.

Oh, you'll have to get a stock oil filter nipple for the block to use the FR adapter. Search e-bay for one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBF-Ford-Bi...ash=item35e7bf998d:g:~YYAAOSwZd1VX5Ck&vxp=mtr

The Hose is a Motorcraft KM-1662. Some guys use a 1990 351 application hose. It was too small for my original pump, but the later pump has a smaller snout.

The 95 amp 3G came from a 3.0 Aerostar. It was a year old reman so I snagged it. Most of the OBS trucks that had a 3G, only were 95 amp, so you can grab the harness from one. Plug and play. My Truck had a small spacing 2G so you need a small case 3G.

My only complaint with the Thorley headers is their y-pipe is supposed to be welded to your original section of pipe behind the original oxygen sensor. The end of it is like 3.25" vs the pipe's 3", so you have to fill it with weld or use a 3" coupler to make the difference up. I welded the coupler into the y-pipe, and then clamped it at the original pipe, so I could remove the exhaust easier in the future.
 
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I guess I didn't post a picture of it. I am using the MSD street fire ignition box and a blaster coil.
 

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