My Low Pinion reAlly a puss?

kushKrawlin · May 1, 2014

Ah gotcha. Just figured comp compound meant stickies for some reason. Thanks man!

JRowe · May 1, 2014

Two guys in my club recently broke front r&p in the LP 60 running 43 stickies . One steel wheels with diy beadlocks running 5.13's. He got the front end off the ground on a hill climb and didn't let out, blew both driveshafts and the r&p. The other was 5.38's running 8bolt h1 wheels, his broke doing front digs on dry dirt. It took out ring gear and messed the tcase up too.

With all that being said, if you drive semi normal you "should" be ok for the most part just don't drive like a tard... Also sticking with 4.56 will help you out on the strength of the gears.

I run 43 stickies in 17" and had the infamous inner bead issue (on allied beadlocks) ended up doing a inner beadlock to solve that problem. I've heard most of the issues are with a certain brand of wheel, The guy above with diy beadlocks used duck tape on the inner bead and hasn't had the problems.

The other options is the 40 treps, they are a good (another guy in the club runs them) tire and lighter, it just depends on what you want and what size works best for your rig.

tallnate · May 1, 2014

I really think that proper gear setup to exact spec is the key to making a D60 last. Correct shim spacing for pinion depth and preload is crucial as well as near equal shim spacing on both sides of the carrier. The mistake most people make is they just set the pinion and then shim the ring gear to the pinion and call it "good enough." It takes time and a willingness to pull the carrier out numerous times and fine tune shim adjustments to get it just right.

There's plenty of people who have been beating on their same 60 front for years with no failures. Bubba Bacon comes to mind.. he's been beating on the same 60 in his big block purple buggy for 5 or 6 years now with no failures.

truckbroke · May 1, 2014

5.13 should last no problem. Any lower good luck. Make sure they are setup right. Red labels alday.. I like sx`s but, Ive seen red labels on flat walls with water running down them make smoke.. Stupid sticky. 24 bolts F that. I work on at a Marine repair depot and when I seen them I was like WTF! seriously.. We call them impact destroyers!! I`m sure snap-on loves them... You will wear a impact the F%$k out on those bitches. If I ran a SX I would go 8 bolt H1 double locked period. Tough as hell an not very heavy at all with the mag runflat. If you go red label you`ll have to go with another wheel as I don`t believe they come in 16.5. I`d love to have a 42" red label myself.

Puppy · May 1, 2014

When I was CRAWLING AND TRAIL RIDING with a built big block, 4 speed, and 44" beadlocked boggers (4 psi) @ 200 pounds a wheel/tire on a GM D60 (4.10's) I never had any failures. It all depends on how you drive.

June dog · May 1, 2014

Have you thought about gears in the transfer case instead of the axles? You can keep the the stronger r/p. Just a thought,

4byfan · May 1, 2014

Puppy you gotta get it out of granny low to break something. :driving:

alehandro3 · May 1, 2014

Casey, ive seen you wheel, you could rock 66" tractor tires and not have to worry about breaking anything on the bypass lines you love so much... hahahaha :flipgotcha:

All kidding aside I would look for a set of Treps if I were you, they seen to have the right balance of stickiness, tread depth for loose **** around here, no inner bead problems, and sidewall strength. And compared to your skinned off 42's I would be willing to bet that a set 60% or more tread would be taller than what your running. And they look pretty sick.

That being said I use to run with a guy with BALD reds, like almost on cords, and he walked everything, including loose climbs at Choc and we were all scratching our heads how those slicks somehow still worked in gravel hill climbs? Damn reds...

If you run the SX's they sure do look badass, but are heavy, and are pretty soft with deep voids, but are heavy, and look badass, bud did I mention heavy?

All in all, I think you would be ok with SX's as long as you remain throttle conscious and don't go below 5.13's. Even though they are big sombitches, regular trail wheelers (not never lifters) I think will keep gear sets alive

kushKrawlin · May 2, 2014

Alex u penis. i was only on the bypass hauling ass to get your ass some parts. Hahaha. For once im gonna be patient and wait for a deal.. Wait till you see my ****. Wont even reconize er'!!
And june dog, someone else had mentioned that a while back. But my pinion bearing is loose so i gotta do that bullshit anyways. Really dread it. $$$ everyone says gear set up is very important which i believe. How the hell ya know if its done perfect if ya aint learned that yet? Man o man if i get gears and they fail they gonna hate me..

slravenel · May 2, 2014

Gears are worth paying for in my opinion.

Just take it to a reputable shop and you wont have any issues.

twiztedzuki · May 2, 2014

took me 2 days of cussing to setup my gears in 60, just time and patience till you get within spec then you know its been done right.

Puppy · May 2, 2014

4byfan said:
Puppy you gotta get it out of granny low to break something.

That was hard to do with 4.10's and 44's! I did let it rip occasionally, after 12 or so Yuengling! Ahhh the good ol'days of the cab trucks!

blacksheep10 · May 2, 2014

They are pretty bad. I had 4.56 in my old one, 5.13 in my last one. 2 sets each, I drive aggresively, but let out when the front is about to come down and regas. We also raced KOH and wheeled a bunch on 6.17's. NO problems until you land on the gas. Boom every time.

Glen1978 · May 7, 2014

Ive got new 43s...non sticky on 12 bolt H1s. There recentered with pvc inserts and rock rings and they tip the scale at 206 pounds each. :****:

tallnate · May 8, 2014

twiztedzuki said:
took me 2 days of cussing to setup my gears in 60, just time and patience till you get within spec then you know its been done right.

Ain't that the truth! Why pay a shop to get it "close enough" cause you know that's the case a lot of the time. I'm gonna go through the PITA process of pulling it in and out as many times as needed so that I know it's just right.

kushKrawlin · May 8, 2014

Dammit i wish some of yall lived around me. Im dyin for someone to show me how to set em up.. If i can do somthin usually one time hands on im good. But not being able to do so fukin frustrates me. Done so much research is pitiful. I do have a friend of the family but he so busy I hate to bother him with it. Still trying to decide I'm actually sitting in the parking lot of a shop right now that this old-timer owns and works , ran into at the auto parts store. Something tells me if he's been putting gears in for over 30 years he should know what the Hell is up?!?? My tire decision has went to a 40" trep sticky and alum wheels. I'm starting to wonder if I should just get the loose pinion bearings fixed and rock the 4:56's???? Save me a **** ton of money! What Do you guys think? Just was on the phone with a buddy and he said I probably would not notice a difference goin from 4:56 to 5:13. If that's the case I definitely do not want to do it seeing as how the 4:56 is a lil more beef on pinion. So now I'm trying to decide.. Any of advice would be awesome.. Someone mentioned keeping the 456 and regearing my transfer case.. I'm looking into that also.. I have more of a clue about Axle Gears than I do transfer case gearing. I'm starting to get a headache. Haha. Again thanks for the advice fellas.

JRowe · May 8, 2014

kushKrawlin said:
Dammit i wish some of yall lived around me. Im dyin for someone to show me how to set em up.. If i can do somthin usually one time hands on im good. But not being able to do so fukin frustrates me. Done so much research is pitiful. I do have a friend of the family but he so busy I hate to bother him with it. Still trying to decide I'm actually sitting in the parking lot of a shop right now that this old-timer owns and works , ran into at the auto parts store. Something tells me if he's been putting gears in for over 30 years he should know what the Hell is up?!?? My tire decision has went to a 40" trep sticky and alum wheels. I'm starting to wonder if I should just get the loose pinion bearings fixed and rock the 4:56's???? Save me a **** ton of money! What Do you guys think? Just was on the phone with a buddy and he said I probably would not notice a difference goin from 4:56 to 5:13. If that's the case I definitely do not want to do it seeing as how the 4:56 is a lil more beef on pinion. So now I'm trying to decide.. Any of advice would be awesome.. Someone mentioned keeping the 456 and regearing my transfer case.. I'm looking into that also.. I have more of a clue about Axle Gears than I do transfer case gearing. I'm starting to get a headache. Haha. Again thanks for the advice fellas.

You are running 42's now, stick with the 4.56's. What tcase do you have?

kushKrawlin · May 8, 2014

NP205. Running 42's now moving to 40 inch Trepadors Sticky. The main reasoning I was going to regear is because I have a Pinion bearing lose up front. But it would be much cheaper just to get that fixed then to re-gear both axles. Just have no clue about gearing a NP 205.

JRowe · May 8, 2014

kushKrawlin said:
NP205. Running 42's now moving to 40 inch Trepadors Sticky. The main reasoning I was going to regear is because I have a Pinion bearing lose up front. But it would be much cheaper just to get that fixed then to re-gear both axles. Just have no clue about gearing a NP 205.

Only option is the lomax kit that gives you 3.0 up from stock 2.0. They quit making it for a while, but recently make another run on them. They are about $1600 http://www.jbconversions.com/products/lomax205/

The 40 treps will be about the same size as the used 42's you have now. I'd fix the loose bearing and rock. Especially if you don't currently feel like you have a lack of gearing...