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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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Specs on the airtex site list it as a 70-95psi max and 30-40 gph. Its what most conversions ive ever seen use...if they go with an external pump. Myron at ZOR likes em and thats all I need to know.
 
Finally got around to building the trans mount...let it cool overnight and I'll bolt it up in the morning. Then I can shorten up the intermediate shaft and move onto checking clearance between the trans pan and front drive shaft. Might have to drop the pan and slice off a corner...hoping I don't though.

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Think i rode with you a little bit at the flats a while back. My truck is that red toyota and I was with a tracker and a samari buggy
 

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Yessir that was me. Was hoping to get back out with yall sooner but ended up tearing it down. Are you going on the hardline forum ride to Harlan
 
Its going to a friends muffler shop tomorrow for some new exhaust.

Only DTC i had was in regards to the EGR system. Turned out the valve was clogged so i replaced it with another one i had laying around...good to go now.

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That little voice in the vids sounds like you have plenty of help in the garage :) Great job on it, Harlan ready
 
Yeah...he loves helping...it's great seeing him pick up on the things I do and him reenacting it...like laying down under his tricycles and such acting like he's working on them.

He's a good cheerleader too...

Bradley
 
Yeah...we had planned to go to Fall Crawl...but decided we'd rather go with Hardline.

Any chance you'd be interested in riding at Gulches Sep. 13? I guess I "could" ride up to the Flats, but it's a little more than an hour further away and for a first trip out after all the changes I'd rather stay closer to home.
 
Thanks man...definitely need to get together at Harlan and ride some trails with you. Well be there Thursday afternoon and probably go mess around on lower rock garden and stuff that evening. Then Friday and Saturday it's on...
 
I really don't enjoy wiring on vehicles...so I'll be extremely happy when this part is over.

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Still need to hook up the trans cooler fan. I'm waiting on a new elocker carling style switch from OTRATTW so once that shows up that'll be taken care of. I picked up some 4 wire trailer wire that I'll be using for the winch controls...just gotta hook it up. The ARB switches should be plug and play for the most part so I left them until last.

I'm hoping I can get by without a relay for the trans cooler fan...anyone have experience to share here? The switches I'm using are rated for 21 amps at 14v. Here's. The specs on the fan...

Fan Size: 7"
400 cfm
Amp Draw: 4.8

The 4.8a draw leads me to believe it'd be fine but I was thinking that the fan might draw more on startup or something like that.
 
Ok got some trans questions im looking for some answers on.

What type of vent do autos need...open element or will one of the bellows like TG sells work?

Anyone had fluid coming through kick down cable? Granted mine is only at frame rail level right now im getting a constant drip from it. Id planned on eliminating the cable entirely but after looking at it im not sure how id do it...any ideas?

Anyone had a slow drip from the seal around the gear selector shaft?

The reason im asking is ive narrowed my leaks down to these two locations. The trans is the TH180 from a tracker so its very similar to other GM versions. Ive never worked with auto transmissions so its been a big learning curve. I always heard that i should check fluid levels while the engine is running...let me know if im wrong here. I filled the trans until the level showed between the cold and hot marks then drove it around the neighborhood to get it up to temp and rechecked it. Reading was still in approx the same place. While i was checking things over i continued to let it idle. It hasnt been run in 2-3 days now and its got a small puddle under it each time i go out to the shop.

My first thoughts were its over full or the vent isnt working properly...currently has the TG style bellow on it.
 
I went back and double checked...with everything cold the fluid level is above the area where youd read the level...so really high. As soon as i fire it up the level drops to the highest notch in the cold section.

The trans cooler is mounted approx 3ft behind and prob 1ft above the trans. Never paid attention to others...but should the lines go up before going to the trans to keep all the fluid from draining back to the pan?
 
I believe I took care of the leaks on the trans. Replaced the seal on the selector shaft...and removed the kick down cable, cut off the cable at the aluminum portion and then capped it with a rubber cap.

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My glove box showed up yesterday so I cut the hole and shoved it in there to see what it looks like...

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Anyone that has worked on anything with me knows I HATE working on sheet metal...and japanese sheet metal is the worst. It usually goes something like...TACK, TACK, TACK, ****...a hole, TACK, TACK, TACK, DAMNIT...another hole, TACK, TACK, TACK, WTF!!!! So with that in mind here is how my transmission tunnel turned out...

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Looked all over the net for a black glove box. There's a few options from over seas and such, but pricing kept me from ordering them. Then I found this one from Veada that is here in the US...always a plus to me...and went with it. They took 2-3 days to ship and it showed up 4 days later via UPS.

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Yeah I'm happy with it. I got a chance to use it today too! Keeping my cell phone and such clean and secured was nice...I never had a door for the stock glove box so craps was always falling out.

Took it to Gulches for a shakedown. Everything seemed to work great. Had to add a bit more fluid to the trans but that's about it.

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Its definitely gonna take a little more getting use to, but the future looks good with it. I ran several l ok nes today easier than ever before simply because i was able to keep smooth forward momentum.
 
sleepsontoilet said:
Digging the clean lines on it.

Thanks!
Stuntman Autoworks said:
Looks good man

Thanks again!

Another piece of the puzzle showed up in the mail today. This will be installed in the back panel of the glove box...or at least thats the plan at this point. It has a 12v cigarette lighter port as well as two USB ports which are both rated at 2.1 amps, which is required by several of the newer mobile devices in order to charge properly. I'll also be installing one of the Pyle marine amps under the dash and routing the AUX jack to the glove box so when a phone or MP3 player is hooked up it can stay in the glove box. The "gain" or volume knob will be mounted in the dash I think...not sure on that one yet.

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