Never ending Samurai build...

Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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Re:

Move the uppers out.
Figure out the driveshaft before you burn everything in.
Pass stuffed driver extended to check flange to link clearance
 
Good to go on driveshaft clearance...

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As long as the driverside is fully maxed out you should be ok with that... :dblthumb:
 
Yeah it wouldn't max out on its own but I went over there and pushed down til the shock stopped...all good still.

I decided to move the upper frame mounts out 7/8" each side since there were easier to deal with AND I gained more triangulation.

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Knocked out the rest of those mounts while I was at it.

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easleycrawler said:
Looks like your liking your new welder.
Click to expand...

Loving it...but still dialing in the settings. I've finally learned why it would be nice to have LCD readouts for wire speed and voltage. If you switched welders you would be able to get back on track a lot quicker...of course no two would be perfectly identical, but it'd be a lot closer than the infinitely adjustable dials.
 
Managed to get some more time in the shop tonight. The steering ram is mocked up...now I need to pull it all apart and burn it in.

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Anyone know of a junkyard part I can pick up that fits this orbital column...looking at PSC's site I think it might be a Jeep style...

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Re:

Yota steering u joints have the split bolt but are splined. You can rough up the shaft and clamp the piss out of it and it'll work fine.

Even if it happens to slip, the cross bolt will keep it from spinning.
 
Re: Re:

TBItoy said:
Yota steering u joints have the split bolt but are splined. You can rough up the shaft and clamp the piss out of it and it'll work fine.

Even if it happens to slip, the cross bolt will keep it from spinning.
Click to expand...
I've don't this same thing with zuk and bronco ujoints.
 
If you can't find a Toyota, Nissan pathfinders use pretty much the same u joints. I just added trail gear's orbital and column when I added full hydro on mine and the splines are the same.

Figured I'd mention it because it seems like when I go to the PnP there's plenty of 1987-1995 pathfinders and few Toyotas.

Good looking build; makes me mad that I parted out my little Sami buggy.
 
Whewww...finally back on the ground and I got started mocking up the orbital and made up a steering shaft for it using the parts I already had on it.

Should have it running tomorrow...hopefully be able to drive it.

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Looks awesome! This is still my favorite build on here. Hope it still works and climbs as well as it did we leafs up front.
 
Finally got to drive it today...the first 4-5 mins were good but then the steering pump started getting loud. Fluid is topped off and it's the same steering both directions but it is quiet sitting still at idle.

I'm running the TG full hydro pump, 6" double ended ram, the 7.6 ci/rev orbital, and the economy reservoir. I pulled the cap on the res while it was running and took a picture to see if someone can let me know if what I saw was normal. I also took two videos one at idle and one slightly revved up.

Really makes it look like it's sucking a lot of air and the fluid is frothing up. Did I need a reservoir with a baffle? Or did I just get a bad pump?

August 13, 2016(2)

August 13, 2016(1)

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Rokcrler said:
Is the fluid swirling in the resi?
Click to expand...

Yes...and you can hear it sucking air. Now that I compare other brands of reservoirs I see they have the return and feed at the bottom of the res...which makes sense. The fluid is clear...it looks milky due to all the air in it...frothy.
 
Thats odd, i have never seen PS fluid swirl like that and ive ran the same resi.

Swirling around like that will cause the feed at the bottom to suck in air at the end of the vortex and that will lead to damaging your pump.

Curious as to how you have your steering setup ran. Pics?

disclaimer: i am by no means a hydro expert, hell, im no expert in anything period... :dblthumb:
 
I know it never did the swirling thing with the hydro assist setup. The reservoir is in the same location as well as the pump and the feed line is the same one too.

It might fix itself if I'd just keep working with it. I've got back and read the instructions online again and they say to cycle it several times and then shut it off and wait for it to cool completely and let all the bubbles out. This was only the second time running it...
 
I had a similar issue with my hydro assist. I had air in my system. Jack up the front end while it's running, turn it to full lock both directions like 20 times with the cap off the res. Have some one watch the res while you are doing this in case it needs more fluid.
 
Thanks...tomorrow morning I plan to jack it up and turn it lock to lock a few times with the engine off and watch for bubbles. Then I'll do it with it running too. That seems to be a common ritual with the full hydro setup. I don't remember having to do any of this with the assist setup, but then again that was over 7 years ago.
 
In my limited knowledge, your reservoir is way too far from the pump. I would try and move it directly on top. Picture climbing a vertical ledge, your reservoir is now behind/below the pump no longer gravity feeding it. Best pic I have of mine, and I've been told it's still too far away by experts.

 
Re:

Ryan i really don't like that resi location either just for the record.

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Well theres really no way to move it closer to the pump and keep the outlet above the inlet on the pump. You won't catch me cutting a hole in the hood just to have a reservoir poking through. I can't see how full hydro would be that much different than assist as far as the fluid movement. I never had any issues with my assist setup...and most people that ever drove mine said it steered easier than most rigs they'd driven. It also never starved/whined when on steep climbs.

I'll keep this in mind if I can't get it sorted out but for now I'll keep working on making sure its bled completely. I did the lock to lock turns with engine off and engine on several times throughout today while I was working in the shop and it seems to get better each time.
 
Re:

You don't need no stinking hood!!! I have never really had any issues bleeding mine but it is a SE ram. I do the wheels up lock to lock deal though.

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