New front end

[moparmagician]

Probably, but the emery cloth will give the swirl effect that most definitely "get's the bitches"

So that's what I am doing wrong,

Now I need to rethink mine. Actually very cool and awesome stuff. Building is half the fun, and after it's done, look out!:awesomework:

 

[JOOP]

Nothing wrong with back yard machine work. Shiiiiiiit I would have mounted it on a front axle then put the rig in gear.............Go to town with a die grinder.:redneck:

Angle grinder :awsomework:

 

[GaryTJ]

Brake lathes do not like taking .080 off at a time, especially the the bar mounted upside down so the bolts are taking the force.

cleaning them up with a sander disc is what you are seeing in the pictures. Kind of like the non directional finish on rotor turns, Only with a 50 grit sander disc.

 

[GaryTJ]

So I got a chance to work on for a couple of hours yesterday.

I knew I wanted 7.25" off of the tube, so measure 3 times and cut once.

View attachment 17606

next I cut off the tube as close to the knuckle as I could.

View attachment 17607

Then I made a couple of cuts through the tube to relieve stress.

View attachment 17608

Then I took a angle grinder and started grinding the end. I did it in the center and stayed away from the knuckle, grinding at an angle so as not to take material away that I needed. This also gives you a slight undercut when the old tube comes out. That gives you a bit more weld for strength.

When I thought I was most of the way through the factory weld, I stopped and using a drift and hammer tried moving the tube in the knuckle. After a couple of times I could see the part line and could drive it out from there.

View attachment 17609

View attachment 17610

 

[GaryTJ]

cut off tube section and the pieces that were driven out of the inner "c"

View attachment 17611

I cleaned up the tube and the inner part of the "c" before putting it back on.

View attachment 17612

I tapped the "C" back on a little bit and then compared the caster angle to the other side. I knew the pinion angle would be close at the factory settings and as I was just changing one side, I matched the angle from the old side to the new side to make sure they are the same.


View attachment 17613

View attachment 17614

I then finished driving the "C" back on and after double checking the angle one more time I welded it back together.

View attachment 17615

Now the housing is ready for cleanup and putting back together.

 

[zig80toy]

Sweet write up. Looking good:awesomework:

 

[GaryTJ]

Back to work

Checking the clearance on the longfield axle boots

View attachment 18322


They are a very close fit!

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Installing the inner seals

View attachment 18324

 

[GaryTJ]

I won't get into setting up the gears. There are plenty of writeups on that already.

But a few things I have found from experience.

This style of pinion nut is NOT FOR SETUP! it is a one time only use and if you use it to setup your new gears, you will destroy the threads on the pinion.

View attachment 18325

And when you do install it for the finished gears, you had better locktite it, because even though it is a interference fit, it will back off.

View attachment 18326

ARB does a very good job on relief notching so you can get the side bearings back off to adjust bearing preload.

View attachment 18327

Ring gear bolts should always be cleaned of oil and locktite put on before install

View attachment 18328

And do not cut the zip ties holding the ARB untill you have most of the ring gear bolts started.

View attachment 18329

 

[GaryTJ]

Also for those of you new to Dana axles, they are marked on the bearing caps and housing at the factory.

there is a letter stamped on the cap and matching on the housing. The letter can be right side up, upside down, or sideways, and the housing is stamped the same way.

If the letter is sideways on the upper side of the cap, it will be sideways above the centerline on the housing also. so match the letters and you are set.

View attachment 18330

Checking the brake brackets... (Blackbirds custom trucks)

View attachment 18331

Installing the Longfield axles

View attachment 18332

They are a very tight fit. clearance is a must.

View attachment 18333

View attachment 18334

 

[GaryTJ]

Redrilling the hubs from 8 lug to 5 lug;

View attachment 18335

Afterwards be sure to remachine the hub/rotor assy as a unit.

View attachment 18336

Also I decided I do not like the factory bearing nuts and since the chevy 14 bolt axle nuts and retainers are the same size, I am going with those. Much easier to take on and off.

View attachment 18337


Next, I cut the old spring brackets off of the frame;

View attachment 18338

View attachment 18339

 

[GaryTJ]

I had Dirtball up to help me with the brute force stuff, He is good at it! LOL

Helping to put the new front on my garbage can jack stands.

View attachment 18340

After checking pinion angle and such, I welded on the brackets

View attachment 18341

View attachment 18342

I then reamed the tie rod end taper for the TRE flip.

View attachment 18343

Then I checked the upper arm brakets and welded them on.

View attachment 18344

 

[GaryTJ]

Next was trial fitting the coilovers

View attachment 18345


Checking hoop height;
View attachment 18346

Checking the shock hoop placement;
View attachment 18347

Welded in;
View attachment 18348

Upper mounting at the hoop;
View attachment 18349

 

[TheMasterbater]

Looking good Gary!!!!

 

[need more beer]

I'm doing 3-link home work for my rig and I'm wondering how things turned out for you? How do you like the ballistic shocks, how well has the square tubing turned out for you?

Thanks shawnb