nissan doubler install

Damnyankee · Sep 3, 2009

Well, Last weekend i failed a rear axle bearing.
so this weekend instead of going wheeling (new curries 9" shafts are going on order next week!) I decided i need to get this done for the anual february wheeling / camping trip.

specs are
Nissan TBI V6 with lots of miles
Stock nissan 5 speed.
Stock nissan TX -10 with 3.7:1 low range (turned into a reduction box)
Stak Dana 300 drivers drop with stock 2.62:1 gears. (twin stick of course)

Overall crawl ratios will be as show below.

photo's after the weekend!

Spanaway Mudder · Sep 3, 2009

Hmmm...I might have to swing by and check out this project:awesomework:

Damnyankee · Sep 3, 2009

come on over gabe, bring some beer. I'll be in the garage all weekend.

Spanaway Mudder · Sep 3, 2009

Damnyankee said:
come on over gabe, bring some beer. I'll be in the garage all weekend.

cool... mutts ok or not?

Damnyankee · Sep 3, 2009

Spanaway Mudder said:
cool... mutts ok or not?

i'm gonna have to say no, because i have 2 dogs. My old one is a PITA.. him and your bitch will go round and round for alpha.

Spanaway Mudder · Sep 3, 2009

Damnyankee said:
i'm gonna have to say no, because i have 2 dogs. My old one is a PITA.. him and your bitch will go round and round for alpha.

and thats a bad thing why?

jk..will leave them home...

Moose · Sep 5, 2009

Are you using the adapter or custom?

Damnyankee · Sep 7, 2009

i'm using an adaptor to turn the nissan case into a reduction box.

its done.. i took photos'. I 'll try and post up tonight.

still gotta do the shifter...

this one? http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1047

or this one? http://broncograveyard.com/images/catalog/TWNSTKBOOT.JPG

jprcrpr94 · Sep 8, 2009

It's tonight.:corn:

jprcrpr94 · Sep 8, 2009

Oh, and the truck towed fawlessly! Thanks again!!:awesomework:

Damnyankee · Sep 8, 2009

Well, here it is.

started with a wheelable vehicle saturday morning.

Out comes the transfer case.

another shot

a little side by side of the nissan Tx-10 and hte new stak D300

back end of the case opened up

I didn't have a proper press to get the main shaft componenets off, so a splitting maul and cinder blocks worked well.. sorry no picks of hammering.

but look at the size of the nissan stuff.

One of the things i had to do was use this big bearing for the main output of the crawler box. It had a oil retaining seal built into it. This was to keep oil IN the back half of the transfer case. But with the new arangement, it would have Kept oil OUT of the bearing.. so i pulled out the seal and ran it without. (it was only on 1 side of the bearing)

gears on the new shaft ready to go.

i had to improvise a bit as this was designed for stock gears and the 3.7:1 gears covered the aft mounting holes.

No big deal, i pulled the shaft back out, installed the "adaptor?" put the shaft back in, put hte retaining clip in THROUGH the adaptor, and then pressed the seal back in.

Damnyankee · Sep 8, 2009

1 of the shifters is now gone.

so remove the spring and bearing, remove the locking Pill, and weld up the rocker.

crawler box complete

crawler box installed

and Stak installed

here is the really cool part.

my old driveshaft, Minus the 1330 flange (just removed the flange to run a straght YOKE (changed the caps, as the 1330S is 1 1/16" cap at the closed yoke end and 1 1/8" at the "YOKE" end.

so it saved me lots of money.. no new rear drive shaft or retubing necessary

started on the shifters. I could not find any brake yokes that were short or corse thread, so i bought each of these and cut htem down, and re-threaded the end from 7/16 unf to 1/2" unc. (very little space and just enough to work)

LIKE A GLOVE.

all in all it has taken me about 22 hours of work to get to this point.

enjoy.

jprcrpr94 · Sep 8, 2009

Damn nice Jeremy!! When you heading out of town? I'd like to check this out in person

Damnyankee · Sep 8, 2009

don't know man.. come on over when ever. I'm home every night by 5pm.

Ed Bister · Sep 8, 2009

jprcrpr94 said:
Oh, and the truck towed fawlessly! Thanks again!!:awesomework:

ya to Evans Creek you homo!! you were supposed to come to reiter. were you scared?:fawkdancesmiley::fawkdancesmiley:

Damnyankee · Sep 8, 2009

edbister said:
ya to Evans Creek you homo!! you were supposed to come to reiter. were you scared?:fawkdancesmiley::fawkdancesmiley:

evans is a harder tow.. glad it worked out.

just keep oil in the cab..lol

CHOP SHOP · Sep 10, 2009

I thinks the driveline is getting complicated and expemsive for no apperant reason.

Damnyankee · Sep 10, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
I thinks the driveline is getting complicated and expemsive for no apperant reason.

its not that its complicated, or expensive.

My front drive shaft has always had "issues" its never failed, but it does bind up at the slip (cause the splines are old and work out)

I'd just like to have a new part here.

I do alot of trips where getting home is a big part (yes driving it)

My rig has alwasy been 100% reliable and I would just like to keep it that way.

Now, if you can find me a drive shaft thats longer than 36" with 1330 specials at either end.. I just may cut it down and re-weld.

I have found that 1330S are available EVERYWHERE. But i'm not 100% sure on the applications that they were used. (i know its ford, and pretty sure it was on teh 8.8 rear ends).

They are 1330S because when i had the stock nissan t-case with the SYE, I had a choice of 1310 or 1330. I went with the larger one. Aslo, My true HI9 uses 1330S u-joints.

at the end of the day, it will be cheaper easier, faster to get a new front drive line, than to change all the other crap.
Plus, i don't want to run 1310's
OR i convert all of them to 1350's.. which i just don't want to do since i have all the proper yokes for the 1330S.

:beer: