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?? On hole saws for knotchers?

timothy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2008
Messages
341
Location
puyallup sth hi
My current 1.5" has about an 1/8" runout at the buisness end. ( YA! I GOT ALL SORTAWAYS PISSY) AS I centered and squared it to the work piece, spun the shafed on the knotcher by hand, and watched the top of the holesaw RISE above the work piece. (F&*%^K)! Now here I vent serching for answers. I guess my ? is, less $ or more $$$ for holesaws. ( I've been told the less $ ones are just as good as the pricyer ones.):rolleyes: ( CHEERS):beer: OOOH WHAT THE H&@^%LL IT's friday:beer::beer::beer:
 
I keep a couple on hand... I think they are lennox and dewalt branded what ever Fastenal had on the shelf.
 
if you let it get hot weird **** can happen... I just break the teeth or round them off... I also will use some cutting fluid as well.
 
Lennox is what I run for cheap ones, they work ok for a while. I also get real carbide hole saws that rock. you could build an entire chassis with one. And keep cutting oil on all of them.
 
I can notch and cut a whole cage with one chop saw disc and one flapper.


I have a notcher and I hate it. Thats just me tho.


Its weird, Ive never been in a handrail shop with a holesaw notcher?
 
Bridgeport & a carbide bit. :D

I hate you :fawkdancesmiley:

I use Milwaukee, and Lennox.
My notcherr shaft is bent though,(harbor freight:puke:) So to circumvent that I measured the resulting hole and stepped down one size in hole saws to get the Actual hole size I wanted..... LOL
Make sense?:haha:

I use White lithium, or tapping fluid for almost everything I cut with a hole saw. Depends on thickness. W.L for thinner wall stuff. T.F. for thicker stuff.
cheers
 
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