ORI tune/setup

Rokcrler · Mar 24, 2016

Re:

They'll still be the 1.6 width best of my knowledge... Might be best to relocate your tabs.
Also, check collapsed length of the CO's versus ORI's as they very.
Your CO's should be 1/2"

truckbroke · Mar 24, 2016

10-4.. Yeah I was gonna do some measuring. I`m running 14" coilovers but might be able to go with 16" ors`s if the numbers are right.

truckbroke · Mar 24, 2016

really appreciate ya`lls input on these things. I`ve been reading a lot about them but, you`d be surprised how little real world info is out there about them like what`s in this post. Especially pressures and such. When I get them I`ve got a real good starting point just off of the input that has been put here alone.

half ton · Mar 25, 2016

kushKrawlin said:
And with the 44's. I do generally when I run Em low put more in the bottom chamber.

That's bad looking mofo love that stance..looks like it's set on kill????????

croes · Mar 25, 2016

This thread has a lot of info (it was posted earlier):

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1544322-ori-tuning-thread.html

truckbroke · Apr 6, 2016

I done some good measurements today. I was thinking I was gonna run 14's but it looks like I'm gonna have to go with 16s. I'm just concerned about how much shaft is gonna be showing. Right now I'm running 14" coilovers with 6" of shaft showing. When I pulled my frontend all the way down the lowest I can get it is 22 3/4" from bolt to bolt without hitting my steering. The 14 collapsed is 21 and some change. That just won't work. I'll bottom out on my steering before the shock bottoms out. The 16s collapsed is 23 which is about perfect. But I'm worried in order to keep my same ride height I'll only have about 4" of chrome showing which is way less than they recommend.

Rokcrler · Apr 6, 2016

I ran 3" chrome on 14's, less than ideal but it worked.

truckbroke · Apr 7, 2016

I guess I can cut my upper mounts off and raise them up. Damn I was hoping to leave those alone. There burned in nice an pretty. Guess I`m being just lazy.

wont work · Apr 7, 2016

I only run 5" of shaft showing and it works fine for me. Have run 4 on the rear before and it worked well also

Beefcake · Apr 7, 2016

I have a sami on basically a tube chassis, I estimate the weight around 3,700. 60/14, th350, np205, and a v6 4.3.

I have roughly 5.5-6'' showing in the front on 14'' STX's and 7.5'' showing in the rear on 16'' STX's.

I can't remember exact pressures but around 140 psi lower and 110 psi in the rear. It took me awhile to get that high I started at 90psi in all four corners and slowly increased until the body roll was eliminated. At lower pressures even shifting from park to 1st with the th350 would squat and torque like it was on crappy air shocks. With the high pressures i have firm ride at 20-30mph and when shifting it doesn't flex. off-camber trails can feel a little uneasy but only in very extreme conditions.

needless to say over all I am very happy with them I have yet to roll or flip because of a push off or body roll.

I plan on using them on my new build LARGE MARGE only thing i'm going to do is add a rear sway bar, main reason I am choosing to do this be cause I believe I can lower the pressures all around getting a soft flex while helping eliminate body roll. I feel the lighter rigs such as mine have trouble finding that happy medium to get the lighter pressure without the body roll.

I also want to look into the plugging of the valves more, not so much for bottoming out but to see if it would make any improvements but at this point I don't feel messing with them and possibly screwing them up is worth the gain if there is any.

Last i've only had two issues with the ORI's. l I have had was fluctuating pressures with the changing of the seasons, for example spring and winter get very cold then summer comes and temps rise to 100 degrees the pressures would expand and end up with a few extra inches of ride height. Second issue is one of my struts had the fluid/oil foam up. When that happened I was unable to discharge the pressure without the oil coming out of the schredder valves. I ended up taking the entire strut apart, empties all the oil and refilled to factory volume.

truckbroke · Jun 10, 2016

Just put my new 16" ORI's on my Jeep and damn I already love these basterds. Rode at AOP last weekend and they are sweet. I put 120psi in the front lowers and 110 in the back lowers. Very little to no body roll and rides Very good. I asked if I could get 1.5" instead of 1.6"spacers and ORI sent them machined to 1.5 for no extra charge.

dwa2469 · Jun 12, 2016

My rig weighs approximately 3000 lbs. I have 14's in the front and 16's in the rear. I run 90 lbs. In the bottom and 6" of shaft showing all the way around. I have no body Roll at all and a great ride. Rig is very stable and flexes like crazy, I cannot tell you how happy I am with them.

chef717 · Jun 13, 2016

really glad this thread is here. hopefully reassembling my rig this weekend. i was thinking of starting at 90/110. but if thats where your at 3000 lbs. i might want to go a little stiffer 100/120. i'm not sure of my weight yet. i'm shooting for 3800 lb

kushKrawlin · Jun 13, 2016

I have adjusted my lowers from 80-130 or so, and honestly they worked awesome each time... I think mounting them is really important. All I know is with one side of axle full droop, and the other stuffed you really want a 90° angle between strut and axle on the one that's fully compressed. :dblthumb:

5 to 10 degree angle of strut leaning in... Rock out with cock out. I love mine. And laugh at coilover lovers daily. :flipoff1:

dwa2469 · Jun 13, 2016

chef717 said:
really glad this thread is here. hopefully reassembling my rig this weekend. i was thinking of starting at 90/110. but if thats where your at 3000 lbs. i might want to go a little stiffer 100/120. i'm not sure of my weight yet. i'm shooting for 3800 lb

I chose 90 because that is where ORI recommended. I could go lower but the stability is so good, I'm afraid I would give up some of that for a softer ride. To be honest IMHO its not worth the trade off.

smbroady82 · Jun 13, 2016

I've adjusted mine about half a dozen times now. IIRC I have 70-80ish in the front and rear lowers. Don't remember on the uppers ( I think around 160-165 ). I have been adjusting the dampening screws to get the desired ride quality now. I about have them where I want em.

Don't mind the other (2) weirdos in the pic. ;D

truckbroke · Jun 15, 2016

Sorry guess I should have put my weight in there. My rig is 4800lbs.. 120 Front lowers and 110 in rear lowers. I`ve got 5.5 inches of shaft showing. I don`t really see where anyone would want anything else. At least for East coast wheeling. Easiest tuning in da world.. No unloading, no bouncing, no air bumps needed, no anti-rock needed- I mean damn. I haven`t touched the lower adjustment screw yet.

bamatoy · Jun 15, 2016

truckbroke said:
Sorry guess I should have put my weight in there. My rig is 4300lbs.. 120 Front lowers and 110 in rear lowers. I`ve got 5.5 inches of shaft showing. I don`t really see where anyone would want anything else. At least for East coast wheeling. Easiest tuning in da world.. No unloading, no bouncing, no air bumps needed, no anti-rock needed- I mean damn. I haven`t touched the lower adjustment screw yet.

I just recently started playing with the adjustment screw, on the last 2 rides i could tell a noticeable difference. All mine were set to max and set it to the minimum, it did seem to make it more spring like.
I ended up setting them in the middle and really like it.

Molly Hatchet · Sep 12, 2016

poolman · Oct 17, 2016

Updates? I ran 130 in the back last 2 weekends and it feels really stiff. I'm going to buy a duel fill kit this week. One post here said that you can't adjust the bottom pressure without emptying the top first? That could be my problem. Any more thoughts on the screw adjustment?????

Edit, I'm running 18" could that throw the "average pressure " out the window????????