Overtired Kick

paradisepwoffrd · Apr 29, 2015

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Between work and having a new baby, there hasn't been much time for this thing.

My buddy brought over his racecar scales and we weighed it for giggles.

This was without the fuel cell, seats, and a few other misc parts. Hoping to get it lowered some more and stay under 2500 lb complete.

paradisepwoffrd · Feb 19, 2016

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Have been messing with it a little lately. Cut out the 4 link front and putting a 3 link back in. Getting more uptravel and wheelbase from the swap.

Cut off the rear factory frame and some tube. Will redo it later. Also moved lower rear coilover mounts to get them more vertical.

On the front I tacked up the rest of the 3 link and coilover mounts. Still trying to decide on single vs. double ended ram for steering.

Last night I decided to tackle the power steering pump. Putting a TC pump on the 1.6 is common, but no one makes a bracket to allow an aftermarket pump and the a/c pump. I used the factory brackets from the kick and jeep (TC pump) to get it mounted. Currently it is just tacked in place. I mocked it up and should work great.

2 brackets tacked up

TC pump mounted

PS pump and A/C comp brackets mounted up together

ecoast · Feb 20, 2016

happy anniversary; year and a day!

keep going!

paradisepwoffrd · Mar 11, 2016

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Spent some time this week putting together my low buck steering ram. Turned 2 single ended rams into 1 double.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Eddyj · Mar 11, 2016

Never seen that done. Any tech on this, or another thread that shows this?

paradisepwoffrd · Mar 11, 2016

Re: Re: Overtired Kick

Eddyj said:
Never seen that done. Any tech on this, or another thread that shows this?

I can't take the credit. I have thought it could be possible for a long time but never tried it. I saw a post on pirate where Spidr did it.

Some more about how I did it.

I pulled the rams apart. In these pics you can see the pieces:

1.125" Shaft w/ clevis, end cap, piston, and 3/4-16" nut.

Rods 7/16"

Body 1.99" ID, 2.375" OD, 12" long.

I trimmed the threads on each shaft to 7/16" long and threaded the 2 shafts opposing into a 7/8" wide nut.

I then stuffed it back into the body and reinstalled the end caps, clevis, and tie-rods.

Current travel is 8.125". If I minimize the spacing between the pistons or use a longer tube, I should be able to get 10" of travel. I don't need that unless I upgrade the shafts

paradisepwoffrd · Mar 17, 2016

Spent some time trying to package the panhard. Originally had it in front of the axle in a traditional location, but couldn't fit the steering there also. Decided to move it to the rear of the axle. Everything is very tight.

paradisepwoffrd · Jul 20, 2016

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Got the parts welded up and front axle back under it.

Now on to the rear.

paradisepwoffrd · Nov 22, 2016

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Haven't worked on it much. Been busy working on the house and new shop.

Finished up the rear shock mounts and rolled it outside, to move it to the house.

paradisepwoffrd · Jan 21, 2017

zukimaster · Jan 22, 2017

Do you still have the old ifs front differential laying around by any chance?

paradisepwoffrd · Jan 23, 2017

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I have the whole front clip lying around somewhere.

What's up?

zukimaster · Jan 24, 2017

I broke the mounting ear off the front diff, but I think I will be better off to just weld it on instead of finding another one and changing the gears out, unless you have a matching front and rear for cheap, mine is a 1999 model with 4.88. sorry to mess your build thread up with this.

paradisepwoffrd · Jan 24, 2017

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I do have one but it's still in a running zuk. The one from this is a 5.13.

The stock housing is alum. You can find a sami rear housing and build an anvil. Or get a xl7 front housing, to get a steel option.