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Project "Naughty Finger"

Here are some pics. Started with an uneven plate that a friend commandeered from work.. Angle iron, TAC welds and a plasma cutter made it a nice even piece. Adjustable legs with two inch increments, casters are adjustable so I can level it, everything is bolts down, wires routed through a hole in the middle, hole cut so shavings can fall through from cold saw. It has tube not her with clearance for any angle , belt sander, bench grinder, cold saw, and porta Ban on swagg stand with foot pedal bolted next to it. All that is left is finishing bottom shelf to hold grinder, blades, wheels etc..
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Ban saw and sander are taller than grinder son no space limitations. Everything clears. Grinder is forward so it has no clearance issues from sander on the side
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Coldmsaw is at the end of the table so no limitations. Its mounted over enough so the ban saw has no issues with clearing. Tube notcher is on other side of ban saw and it clears just fine as well
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I went to pick up the rest of the steel I needed for my jig... Went to Winnick.. if you are in Minnesota you might be familiar with that place. If not just know that in the winter getting steel out of their drop off area is a b!tch because it's all outside and now covered in two feet of snow. I ended up leaving there pissed off with no steel. I'll just hit city steel up sometime this week. They have a nice heated indoor building with all their steel in nice labeled racks and their prices are better.

You know that saying about idle hands and stuff... well I started thinking... ( never a good thing ) so I decided to sell my BB motor with the FAST EFI ... I found a taker. The motor put out good power but it's heavy, the distributor would get went and make my spark shitty when it was in mud or water crossings since it sat in the front of the engine and did I mention it's heavy? So I sold it for $x dollars. ( Delivering it this week to the guy's shop ). Once I do the delivery I can go pickup my new engine. 2010 5.7 hemi with 20K miles on it. Complete motor that came out of a 300C that totaled. Using a megasquirt and harness from efisource I can have the fuel injected 390 horse hemi for 2K less than what I sold my engine for! Of course if the hemi is sold before I deliver my engine I am back to square 1 but I am going the hemi direction.

The 5.7 hemi is just over 200 lbs lighter, it has a smaller foot print, it puts out just over 400 horse at the crank ( chrysler claims 390 but that is full dress meaning mufflers and cats ). With a cam I swap I can get it to 420 ( Truckin magazine took a stock 5.7 and added a cam ) then with the megasquirt I can either hook up a 100 shot of nitrous ( don't need it but want it )

the weakness of those engines is the "powdered rods" which tend to go with high hp or 87 octane gas and the pistons tend to fail and chunk off at the tops because of 87 octane pre-detonation.

I also found another hemi complete with a broken rod and a bad head for $500. I MAY go that route and rebuild the bottom end with forged pistons and call it a day.

Here is an interesting fun fact. I have a magnum motor sitting in my garage and thought about using that. There are like a billion 5.2 or 5.9 magnum motors out there BUT the support to run a hemi is much better. People have managed to use megasquirt on a magnum or change the intake and run a stand alone efi system on them but nothing like what efisource has for the hemi. The hemi engine costs more by itself by like a grand but to use it the hemi in the long run costs less. Go figure.

Now the waiting game.. please don't sell the hemi, please don't sell the hemi, please don't sell the hemi.....
 
Decision is made.. I am picking up the hemi with the bad head and busted piston for $400. The 2010 hemi with low miles out of the 300C is a vvt engine. Although the can phasermin the vvt can be locked out you can't do much to the motor. No aftermarket support for the vvt programmer wise. The megasquirt will work but nobody has figured out a tune yet. Its just too much Hassel. With the blown motor I can put in a forged bottom end and a nice crank. Have over 400 HP and if I want be able to run nitrous without melting a piston. The week stock pistons and rods scare me for off road use.

On the plus side today I started building my chassis table. Should have that done by end of the weekend!
 
Decision made. Today I drove two hours one way to pickup a hemi. Ended up driving two hours one way to take a hemi out of a charger with almost no tools. End result is I have myself a complete 06 hemi from a cop car. The biggest difference between the police version a public version is a really nice oil cooler integrated into the engines cooling system. Great for hot days crawling. The engine needs a rebuild. One head and a piston are pretty tore up. Either way it was a steal at $500
 
FINALLY.. we had some warmISH days to work in my unheated garage.

The chassis table is finally done. Finished it today in the 22 Degree cold. That sucked. The specs.

The main frame is made out of 2" by 3/16 square tubing
The castors are rated for 1000 each
Each castor is bolted to a plate which is welded to a 1" nut which allows the table to be leveled and increase in height by an additional 3 inches if need be.
The table is 20" high at the top.
The axles are sitting at a wheel base of 119" right now. But i will be going for 110 to 115 at the MOST so plenty of room
I had to make a channel for the front diff to sit in. Wasn't planned.. more of an accident that worked out really well because with the diff in the channel the axle is perfectly centered on the table. The channel was made by cutting a long section out of the tube, flipping it inverted and welding it back into place then grinding it smooth
The pinion angles can be adjusted by loosening a bolt and raising or lowering the square tube under it. That tube is welded to a slider so it can move with the axle if I need to change wheel base.
The shelf at the bottom was another accident. I did have it so that the center was 60" wide and the outer axle area would be 40" wide.. once it was together I realized it would suck trying to lean in on stuff to work on it so I used my plasma cutter and started cutting. When I cut the tops and sides of the tube it bent downward... then I got the idea. I bent it down to be vertical then welded some tube with a 45 cut into them. I made a step.. perfect for if I needed to get a bit higher for roof work. Then after that was done I was thinking what a waste of space under there. So I added the cross bars, tied them in with the center vertical legs for more strength and added some expanded metal on top I had laying around. I now have a step and a shelf to keep cut offs or whatever under there.. can never have enough storage.
Last but not least welded a 1/8" plate to the top. I would like to have made it thicker but it's well supported underneath and just that plate was $71.00 which brings the grand total of everything for this chassis table I will most likely use once to be TOO MUCH. Can I place the for sale add now for the chassis table I'm gonna be selling next year?

I put the 727 bolted to the 203 with the 205 next to it for "scale" My NorthWest Fab Doubler is on its way so I will be using the chassis table as a work bench to put the doubler together. ( convenient ) The big block 727 is not gonna be used. Instead the guts ( very well built tranny for the last engine ) will be going into a small block 727 donated by a friend. A small block 727 will bolt up to my HEMI... Yeah.. had to mention the HEMI again... The whole buggy is gonna be built around that HEMI

I still need a few small tools, need to piece some scrap expanded metal together into a shelf under my little "fabrication table" to hold my grinders and consumables, need to attach the air/hydro conversion to my tube bender and somehow get it on wheels instead of bolting it to the garage floor which is what I have been doing.

I realize i could have "rigged" something real quick, not put the time into that fabrication table etc.. etc.. and been bending tube by now but after building the last truck I decided to take my time and have everything setup the way I want it to prevent frustration. Yeah.. I'm Anal.

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Thanks for the kind words Draco. Much appreciated. A lot of work went into that stupid table.

Yesterday a club member volunteered to enlarge the main bearing in my 205 housing so I can run the bigger 90mm bearing. This week I will be tearing the 205 down so I can get it machined for the doubler. I will post pics of the torn down 205.

On a side note I could not believe how much heavier the 203 is compared to the 205. Drastic difference.
 
I just want to update my posts regarding the use of Bend Tech Pro

A couple days ago I opened the software up and it had an update. After it was updated I noticed the program "flows" a lot smoother and I have not run across any of the "glitches" that were annoying me a couple months ago. A lot can be said about a company that continues to improve upon their products instead of continuing to cash in on something with known issues.

Thanks Bend Tech Pro.
 
Things are moving along despite the fact it is snowing AGAIN..

My doubler kit came in from NWF... nice kit... I had to order the larger input bearing and female input shaft. I haven't started installing it yet because my 70's GM 205 case is getting the input bearing machined out to be larger. I am also tapping the two hold that hold the shift rails into place and putting in a 1/4 npt plug instead of a "freeze plug"

The 205 was in pretty good shape considering the age. The idler shaft was grooved up a bit in the center where it appears some dirt got in, the main input shaft gear had a chunk missing from the center of each tooth.. maybe oiling? Or maybe it was chewed. The main input bearing had a piece broke off of it. Since the bearing and shaft are being replaced it's not big deal.

I should have my case done this week. I have new shift rails are coming in for the triple stick. I am looking for a 32 spline front output shaft because this early year 205 had a 10 spline shaft.

Now the tubing issue. I mentioned my neighbor works for a place that makes steel tubing. ERW and DOM.. just found out about the DOM... At any rate the price i can get it for is ridiculous as long as I buy it by the bundle. I have been waiting on 1 3/4 .120 wall but none has come in. Come to find out in the grand scheme of things the .120 wall is an oddball size. I realize in motorsports it's common but in the grand scheme of life.. it's not. .134 wall however is common and I can get that pretty easy. My pro tools 105 could not bend .134 wall 1 3/4 so I sold that and purchased a 105 HD bender which CAN do the .134 wall tube. Sold my old bender for $150 and bought the new one on sale at trick tools for $300... by purchasing .134 wall tubing I will be saving WAY more than the $150.00 difference. I can't post what I am paying for the steel but I can tell you it's ridiculous. Now I'm waiting again. Waiting for the call to come pick up my bundle of steel ( 20 to 30 sticks ) and waiting for my tube bender to show up... Waiting for shift rails and new shaft so i can build my doubler.. waiting .. waiting .. waiting...

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