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Propane Help

bbone

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
1,140
Location
Columbus,GA
496 BBC
Impaco 425


Noticed after rebuild, it seems to really going through propane quickly. I have replaced a few parts here and there to cover my back (plugs, distributor button, set timing, checked all wires, a few new hoses and connections at the propane tanks to rule out leaking.

-Installed a wideband 02 sensor, read 7 at idle and 22/23 under throttle.
-Does burn your eyes a little bit when running (best I can tell while warming up in garage with doors OPEN)
-idles fine, runs fine, plenty of power

1.What adjustments need to be made to ensure its tuned properly?
2.What else am I missing here?
 
How quickly is it going through them? In a good day on mine I would go through 3 tanks. If the trans and tcase survived...

I do not think mine was tuned correctly but just some info for you.

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Re:

Based on those numbers you are super rich at idle but very lean under throttle. There is an idle mixture circuit/screw on the mixer to adjust.

What is your timing set at? Is that under throttle measurement part or full throttle? Under load or in park/neutral?

Vacuum or electric lockoff?
 
It goes fast...rode around with John G a few weekends ago and one tank went in less than 2 hours just cursing around....


Timing is btw 36/40, set under idle and under load in gear, Vacuum lock off
 
Re:

You can try reading this. Should help give you direction.

http://www.rasoenterprises.com/index.php/propane/31-carburetion/65-impco-fuel-mixtures
 
After reading your post a few things come to mind. You did not advise if you are running single or dual mixers or if the mixer has been adjusted already. If it has a single mixer you are going to run out of airflow around 3800 rpm meaning the mixer is operating at peak capacity most of the time on an engine that size. A single mixer on that size engine does not have enough flow to keep it in the lower flow range where the economy is. The idle setting is a separate adjustment on the side of the mixer and the power setting is in the middle of the housing. The idle mixture is set after the timing is set properly. The power mixture should not be changed unless you have access to an exhaust gas sensor while tweaking. The power mixture is flow tested and preset at IMPCO when built and adjusted for the best compromise between economy and power. You can get more horsepower by adjusting it but normally you need to be on a dyno to get it right.

The timing numbers you quoted are too high for a propane engine and can make it "fight" itself internally and use excess fuel in the process. It was not mentioned what compression ratio the engine has but that plays into the situation as well. It is best to remember that propane has a higher octane than pump gas but the burn characteristics are completely different. Gasoline requires more timing for higher octane due to the slower ignition of the fuel. Gasoline enters the engine as a droplet of liquid fuel, then is compressed in the cylinder where it is heated and vaporized and at that point is ready to ignite. Propane is not that way. It enters the cylinder as a vapor and is ready to burn immediately and needs zero compression to ignite. It only needs a spark of correct strength. Below are the general guidelines for setting the timing on about any propane engine. There are some exceptions to these guidelines such as fast burn heads, extremely high compression or poor cooling system.

On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.
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Propane Systems: Buddy: 877-403-7827
 
-it is a single mixer..
-the mixer has not been adjusted...it ran great before the motor was built..
-compression is 10-1
 
Just out of curiosity did you change the cam in it or just general rings and bearings rebuild?
 
bbone said:
-it is a single mixer..
-the mixer has not been adjusted...it ran great before the motor was built..
-compression is 10-1

Any plans on running a dual set up? I would bet you're losing about 150 hp on the top end as it is now
 
altfuel1991 said:
Just out of curiosity did you change the cam in it or just general rings and bearings rebuild?


-Fully custom cam
-full rebuild on motor
-hopefully not going to dual setup since this intake has been worked


Really haven't beat on it much because there more than enough power on the bottom end
 
bbone said:
-Fully custom cam
-full rebuild on motor
-hopefully not going to dual setup since this intake has been worked


Really haven't beat on it much because there more than enough power on the bottom end

The cam change can make a huge difference. As far as your intake you do not need to change it to go to dual mixers. We have an adapter for a standard Holley style baseplate that allows twin mixers to fit under a 14" air filter. With a big inch engine and strong cam your engine is basically running with a two barrel carburetor. That engine will come alive when extra airflow is added, even on the bottom end. A standard baseplate will flow 900cfm so there is no need to use a dual quad manifold.
 

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Are you running a vacuum lockoff or an electric one? Let me know and I will put together a price for an upgrade kit to add to what you have and convert to dual mixers and vaporizers.
 
altfuel1991 said:
The idle setting is a separate adjustment on the side of the mixer and the power setting is in the middle of the housing. The idle mixture is set after the timing is set properly. The power mixture should not be changed unless you have access to an exhaust gas sensor while tweaking. The power mixture is flow tested and preset at IMPCO when built and adjusted for the best compromise between economy and power. You can get more horsepower by adjusting it but normally you need to be on a dyno to get it right.


If i have wideoband O2 sensor, would you recommend trying to adjust the power mixture?
 
You can adjust it to 14.8 to 1 air/fuel ratio for best performance. The mixers are preset to 15.6 to 1 for best economy from IMPCO. It would be interesting to see what your air/fuel ratio is running throughout the rpm range.
 
Still haven't adjusted the timing, still burning thru propane , but it seems to idle at 7/8 and with any throttle go straight to 22/23
 
The timing is critical for power and fuel economy. Set the timing before any adjustments on the mixer. The single mixer may be running wide open trying to feed that engine but it should not go that lean unless the mixer has been adjusted to the lean side.
 
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