Pure sex.

CHOP SHOP · Dec 3, 2008

shoulda just went with sum 2x2:redneck:

Binder · Dec 3, 2008

Bunk said:
3/8th's wall lowers, I laugh. The jonnys will bend. Ive gone thru 6 of em.

So? That's why their rebuildable...I don't expect anything to live under there undamaged.

AMJ · Dec 3, 2008

Binder said:
So? That's why their rebuildable...I don't expect anything to live under there undamaged.

Exactly. Much better to have something that you can see get damaged instead of making everything so big that your ripping brackets off the housing.

Bunk1 · Dec 3, 2008

Binder said:
So? That's why their rebuildable...I don't expect anything to live under there undamaged.

Mine bent after the thread and before the body. Mauler really got me thinking about this, My links are way stronger than my jonny's. However alum will bow a bit on impact, Taking stress off the jonnys/heims. At least the jonnys are cheap.

Also, Did you drill em out (thru bolt) or did they come that size?

mark · Dec 4, 2008

:masturbanana[1]:
________
POLYCYSTIC OVARY SYNDROME (PCOS) ADVICE

Binder · Dec 4, 2008

Bunk said:
However alum will bow a bit on impact, Taking stress off the jonnys/heims. At least the jonnys are cheap.

So will steel. 4130 is spring steel, diameter, thickness, heat treating all play a roll in how much it will bend and how much force it takes to bend it. I did some back yard math and some internet reading and the best I can tell my 4130 links will take about twice as much force before it will permanently bend as compared to 7075 aluminum.

Bunk said:
Also, Did you drill em out (thru bolt) or did they come that size?

I bought them that way. I tried to drill out a smaller one but it's too hard to drill with common HSS drill bits.

Binder · Dec 4, 2008

Bunk said:
Mine bent after the thread and before the body.

Also how much thread is showing on yours?

Binder · Dec 4, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
shoulda just went with sum 2x2:redneck:

Why? I don't live in Puyallup.:redneck:

Bunk1 · Dec 4, 2008

Binder said:
Also how much thread is showing on yours?

Less than 1/4 inch.

Not Jobless · Dec 4, 2008

Binder said:
Also how much thread is showing on yours?

My front lowers with threaded JJ's aren't bent yet, though I had the links made long enough to where the entire threaded shank is inside the link.

Pat · Dec 4, 2008

Anyone ever do JJ lowers without the threaded shank (non-adjustable)?

Not Jobless · Dec 4, 2008

Pat said:
Anyone ever do JJ lowers without the threaded shank (non-adjustable)?

Weld-on, yep lots of them, but I always included a means of adjustment at one end.

CHOP SHOP · Dec 4, 2008

Jackazz said:
Weld-on, yep lots of them, but I always included a means of adjustment at one end.

I have used tons of weld on ones with no issues.
why do you need an adjustment? brackets/hangers ****ed up?

Pat · Dec 4, 2008

I was thinking it would be both stronger and cheaper to have weld-on lowers and adjustable uppers. If you get everything lined up perfect the first time you shouldn't need adjustable lowers right? Or am I dreaming of a perfect world that doesn't exist?

CHOP SHOP · Dec 4, 2008

Pat said:
I was thinking it would be both stronger and cheaper to have weld-on lowers and adjustable uppers. If you get everything lined up perfect the first time you shouldn't need adjustable lowers right? Or am I dreaming of a perfect world that doesn't exist?

getting it in straight isnt hard!:awesomework:

although having the uppers (no contact) adjustable would be nice for tuning pinion angle or alowing fine tuning if trannyXcase lenght is swapped/changed.:beer:

AMJ · Dec 4, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
I have used tons of weld on ones with no issues.
why do you need an adjustment? brackets/hangers ****ed up?

The adjustment can be useful when you bend the link and its length changes :;

Cascade_Crawler · Dec 4, 2008

AMJ said:
The adjustment can be useful when you bend the link and its length changes :;

also if you build anti squat adjustability into your uppers

Binder · Dec 4, 2008

Also I wouldn't assume that the assembly would be any more stronger without the adjustment built in. If you weld the link directly to the JJ you would need to use the cromo JJ piece in order to have it heat treated afterwards. The body of the cromo JJ is only .188 wall IIRC.

sarg · Dec 4, 2008

Binder said:
Also I wouldn't assume that the assembly would be any more stronger without the adjustment built in. If you weld the link directly to the JJ you would need to use the cromo JJ piece in order to have it heat treated afterwards. The body of the cromo JJ is only .188 wall IIRC.

plus if you bend a link you can rotate it and hit it again to bend it strait. but I dont think you will ever have a problem bending the cromo's.

Binder · Dec 4, 2008

The question isn't will they bend? Because they will. It's just a question of when they bend will they stay bent or will they spring back to straight again?...I have no question as I'm sure they will be fine bent or not. This whole thing is to change out the tractor links for JJ's.:awesomework: