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Re-venge YJ Tons Swap

The Luke

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,133
I too, am guilty of rushing through wiring. When I built this jeep, I wasn't in a big hurry and also realized that I could make my life easier by adding a bus bar in the engine bay. That way, any time I need to change anything, I don't have to dig into the consol
I did a little waterproof fuse block in the engine bay. I need to go through and label the lid so I know what is what. One huge benefit it has is that it has an indicator light that goes off whenever a few blows. So that's super helpful.
 

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,667
Location
Amish Country
I did a little waterproof fuse block in the engine bay. I need to go through and label the lid so I know what is what. One huge benefit it has is that it has an indicator light that goes off whenever a few blows. So that's super helpful.
That would be nice to have. I used different colored wires for all of the circuits but usually forget what goes to what.
 

The Luke

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Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,133

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
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Location
Amish Country
Not much of anything to show except now I know why so many people just go 3 link on the front of jeeps. That orange string is tied to the top of the yokes. Can't tell in the pic but there's about ¾" between it and the bottom of the upper link mount. I'm almost certainly using the top hole so I should be able to cut out and brace the lower and middle holes. I'll probably know better when I drop it to full bump. Also could run a carrier bearing and that would also mean I won't have to modify the skid, which will get redone when I upgrade the tcase anyway.
20210221_163437.jpg
 

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Amish Country
That close clearance spot is almost exactly at the middle of the driveshaft too, so looking at about 3" of up travel from the shaft right there but that also depends on how the pinion will change too.
 

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
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Location
Amish Country
Making a little progress. Chopped up one of the chassis side brackets to hopefully clear the driveshaft. Then realized that the torque converter was too close to let the bolt go in so figured it would just have to go in from the outside.
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Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Amish Country
After that, I dropped her to full bump. Couldn't go down quite as much as I wanted but this height works better for things like driveshaft and link clearance. Still only have about 1" between the truss and frame. Need to pick up a torch set to weld the housing to the tube on the driver's side so I'm at a standstill on the front. Thinking I'm probably going to chop off the rear frame today. Or maybe start on the front shock hoops.
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Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,667
Location
Amish Country
Yeah, it's a lot of extra work clearing the way for more up travel in front.
For sure. In my case, it'd mean changing the motor mounts, chopping off the frame above the axle and dealing with a nightmare of a driveshaft. And even then, it'd drag everywhere since it would only have an 18" belly. I imagine once she wads up this body, I'll just swap everthing to a tube chassis and make it all "better" anyhow.

On a productive note, got the other side built in the back. Got the wife running out tomorrow for another piece of steel to go across the back and then I should be able to weld it all up.
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Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,667
Location
Amish Country
Front and rear links done. Guess I'll start on mounting the shocks. Rears will poke through the top of the wheel wells so they'll just tie into the cage.

Full droop vs full bump
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Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,667
Location
Amish Country
Front shocks are hung. Still need to add plenty of gussets and bracing (and redo one of the upper tabs)
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but it at least can hold itself up.
 

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