Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
Roughly how much would it cost to get a drivers drop front axle retubed so it would be a pass drop? Who can do it?
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Retubing Cost?
- Thread starter Cascade_Crawler
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Binder
Well-Known Member
Call S&N and ask them.:awesomework:
mark
Well-Known Member
I did one in my garage. Wasn't hard.
Sacrificed (2) axles to do it (it was a D44), but mostly because the HP was just a chunk the other housing had no use to me.
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BABE SEDUCTIVE
Sacrificed (2) axles to do it (it was a D44), but mostly because the HP was just a chunk the other housing had no use to me.
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BABE SEDUCTIVE
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Just a thought, since pass drop fronts are 2/3 as common as drivers, wouldnt it be easier to just trade off for what you want, unless you are looking for a custom length, even then, your job could be easier with the pass cause you could just shorten possibly.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
It cost me about $2000 to retube a front 44 for the rear.
You can do eet. You don't have to literally retube it. You can chop the long side off and splice it on to the short side. You just need a bitchin' welder
You can do eet. You don't have to literally retube it. You can chop the long side off and splice it on to the short side. You just need a bitchin' welder
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
****ing craigslist is full of flakes
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
Binder
Well-Known Member
Typo I hope?
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
MM251. Did the job all by my lonesome
Mrs. Crusty
Resident Bitchy Elder
he used the axle as an excuse to buy the welder! NO, it's not a typo!
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
I just have to do about ten more axle housings and it will pay for itself :flipoff:he used the axle as an excuse to buy the welder! NO, it's not a typo!
Bumping this as I'm thinking about it. I have a HP kingpin Ford 60 that I want to retube to passenger drop, and I want to run stock length shafts on both sides.
The 60 knuckles look like they will interchange easily from side to side... so it would a simple matter of lopping the C's off on each side in the same spot, swapping them side to side, sleeving the inside with some tight fitting tube, lining everything up, chamfering the surfaces where the tubes meet, and firing up the 220 mig and laying down some good beads.
Does this sound even remotely reasonable?
Or maybe I'll just take it to S&N so it gets done right. :awesomework:
The 60 knuckles look like they will interchange easily from side to side... so it would a simple matter of lopping the C's off on each side in the same spot, swapping them side to side, sleeving the inside with some tight fitting tube, lining everything up, chamfering the surfaces where the tubes meet, and firing up the 220 mig and laying down some good beads.
Does this sound even remotely reasonable?
Or maybe I'll just take it to S&N so it gets done right. :awesomework:
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CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
You don't have to literally retube it. You can chop the long side off and splice it on to the short side. You just need a bitchin' welder
I have had a machinist make a 1/2" thick sleeve that was a perfect fit over factory d44 tubing (gm front) shortened the long side and sleeved it. been being beat on for 5 years, just fine. he had previously killed a scout d44 front housing before we used the 3/4 d44 chev front. not really sema kinda stuff, but hey its real cheap, strong, and easy!:beer:
Bumping this as I'm thinking about it. I have a HP kingpin Ford 60 that I want to retube to passenger drop, and I want to run stock length shafts on both sides.
The 60 knuckles look like they will interchange easily from side to side... so it would a simple matter of lopping the C's off on each side in the same spot, swapping them side to side, sleeving the inside with some tight fitting tube, lining everything up, chamfering the surfaces where the tubes meet, and firing up the 220 mig and laying down some good beads.
Does this sound even remotely reasonable?
Or maybe I'll just take it to S&N so it gets done right. :awesomework:
Yes, it is a reasonable way to do it. Make sure to make reference lines before you cut, so you can easily get you caster correct when you swap sides. The inside sleeves would have to be right on the money to get a straight axle. I did it years ago on a dana 44, worked just fine.
The sleeve isn't where most of the strength comes from, by the time the axle tube is welded it is considerably stronger than any sleeve will ever be. If you are going to be relying on the sleeve only to align an axle you are crazy.
So you would suggest a jig of some sort, or possibly some pucks and a bar, and very straight cuts on the tube to make sure everything is lined up perfectly afterward, even when using a sleeve inside?
My spidy senses tell me that someone is going to be getting a call today to inquire about pricing to have something like this done.
Binder
Well-Known Member
The factory tube isn't consistant enough to align with just a sleeve. It's not round or straight....You can still do it this way though, just get it tacked together then stick a axle in to see if it's centered in the end of the tube. Being a front axle it's somewhat forgiving...The welds are critical!
Mines done this way and seems to hold up, that must say something?:redneck:
Mines done this way and seems to hold up, that must say something?:redneck:
