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Running water in tires?

Last time I heard of someone doing that it was because a friend of his was playing a joke on him and he ended up with the worst balance problem he ever had.

I suppose as a little extra unsprung weight if you don't plan on driving on the street...
 
A few guys down here are doing it, but they can't drive safely over about 20 MPH. Balance issues. Really only beneficial for comps or extremely steep (vartical) climbs.

Sweet avatar BTW. tclong.
 
Its a trail rig only and 20 mph is about the top speed I will be going.:mad:

I'm not talking about filling them to the top just adding some extra weight as low as possible to keep the rubber side down as much as possible. There are plugs in the wheels to add water so There is already water in the tires but not even waight in all 4. So I'm just wondering how much would be to much?

Dana 44s with cromoly axles and longfields 300m u joints 5.89 R/P 1.3L suzuki motor suzuki tranfer case with 6.5 gears.
 
One thing I have seen before is farmers running liquid calcium in ag tires and I have heard of it being used for wheeling. The reason they run calcium rather than just water is because it is heavier per gallon than water and it is not as corrosive as water, any tractor tire or commercial tire shop can get you some.:devil2:
 
mjp1080 said:
One thing I have seen before is farmers running liquid calcium in ag tires and I have heard of it being used for wheeling. The reason they run calcium rather than just water is because it is heavier per gallon than water and it is not as corrosive as water, any tractor tire or commercial tire shop can get you some.:devil2:

Calcium also wont freeze :cool:
 
I did a lot of testing and here's what I came up with:

Full of water is like too much psi. It's ok for the comp compound tires that don't require a lot of bulge. But the Iroks like low psi.

Even weight is not necessary, just preference. One beneficial factor water adds is balance. For a front heavy rig (most are) more water in the rear evens out the weight balance.

There is a sweet spot when the water will not slosh and the rough ride is more tolerable. But what you can’t avoid is the centripetal force that forces the water out and “narrows†the tire. (think drag slick) This really makes the handing bad, especially when slowing down from 20, 30, 40 mph.

It also seems the water makes an “inner-beadlock-forceâ€. I have no proof, just my observation.

And a tip. You can determine how much water is in a mounted tire by knocking on the tire up and down till you hear the hollow vs. the solid sound. Easier than actually weighting each tire.

With all this said, I won’t be running water in my red label Krawlers. I want to go fast.
 
You make some good points mark. I think I will start by trying to balance it from front to back depending on how much water it will take to make up the difference. And then go from there.

I also like the idea of liquid calcium I might look in to this.
 
mjp1080 said:
One thing I have seen before is farmers running liquid calcium in ag tires and I have heard of it being used for wheeling. The reason they run calcium rather than just water is because it is heavier per gallon than water and it is not as corrosive as water, any tractor tire or commercial tire shop can get you some.:devil2:

Not sure why you think calcium is not corrosive, because it is WAY CORROSIVE!!!! However in the recent years there are new low corrosin mag/calcium mixes that are also used. In a tractor, equipment, etc... it goes in a tube... That is why alot of older tractors when they get a flat have to get the rim replaced because of the calcium leaking out eats the wheel.

Oh,and don't get that **** on leather gloves...unless you have midget hands.
 
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Water is free.
Water is easily added and drained.
Water is safe.

You can't freeze moving water insulated in a thick rubber carcass. :; Even if you let it sit outside for 12 hours (I have) you only get a small layer on top that breaks up once the tire flexes and unfrozen water starts to move around. The only freezing you have to worry about is freezing on/in the valve stem. A lighter or small allen key fixes this issue. Or add some anti-freeze, 10 to 1 ratio.

Don't use calcium.
 
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I say learn to drive with no water... If you must a cup of anti freeze will keep the rust down in steel wheels and no freeze probs. My group travels too fast for water in rims.

:cool:
 
Roccrawler said:
I say learn to drive with no water... If you must a cup of anti freeze will keep the rust down in steel wheels and no freeze probs. My group travels too fast for water in rims.

:cool:
Troy hit the nail on the head. I would only use water,shot,etc for competing only. If you cant keep up because you can only do 20mph, you will get left behind in no time.:D
 
Toyotanut said:
Man wouldn't that be funny to see.... Some guy jump into his rig with the water frozen in the bottom of the tires.... Talk about being unbalanced:haha:

We did that to a bitch in Chilliwack who used to call the cops on use for working on our car in the closed in carports (wasn't allowed)
The calls were made all hours of the day or night (even when we weren't doing anything) about noise, tires screeching (which was usually her doing it then blaming us) and loud stereo.
We filled her tires with water one night and when she went to leave in the AM (she worked at a truck stop cafe during the day and the parking lot at night) we razzed her about her POS car. She laid on the gas, and it took a bit but she got the tires spinning, then she launched out of the driveway and straight across the road into the curb on the other side.
Of course she called the cops and tried to blame us, but 1 whiff of her breath and she was off on a DUI charge! :haha::cheer::cheer::cheer:
 
Jobless said:
Water in tires for a trail rig?

Learn how to drive and save the water for the salmon :rolleyes:

I can drive just fine Thank you.

OK so the calcium is out. And I did plan on adding a little antifreeze. I'm not talking about filling the tires with water. I'm only talking about 4-6 gallons in the front and 6-8 in the rear tire's to start with. Just to add some ballast weight.

Any one have any good ideas on how to get The water out of the tires. At least two of them need some of the water that was already in them removed.
I'm thinking a small hose that I can siphon the water out with. That will probably work.
 
tclong said:
6-8 in the rear tire's to start with. Just to add some ballast weight.

Any one have any good ideas on how to get The water out of the tires. At least two of them need some of the water that was already in them removed.
I'm thinking a small hose that I can siphon the water out with. That will probably work.


So you want to add a little over 200lbs of weight...:gayheart:

Dude...you own a buggy now...time to work on it...just break down the tire and beadlock.
 
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