S&N 2 Seater

Freeride · Feb 10, 2009

The guys up at S&N are going to be starting a chassis for me after KOH. I'm reusing most of the drivetrain from the TJ. This comes with a lot of compromises, but buying a whole new drivetrain isn't happening. The goal is for a 2 seater recreational fun buggy. No frills, no bling on this buggy. Just the basics. Lots of DIY stuff.

The plan:

S&N Fab 2 Seater 1.5" DOM Chassis
TJ front clip
4.0L I-6
TF999 Auto
Atlas 2 4.3
HP60 Kingpin, 5.13, Detroit, Full Width
14 Bolt, 5.13, Detroit, Discs, Full Width
Single-ended steering ram
2.5" x 14" Fox air shocks up front
2.0" x 16" Fox air shocks in back
Fox air bumps in front
7075-T6 links
40" MTRs on H2s for now
M8000

I'll try to keep the thread updated with pictures as the build progresses.

:rockon:

Money Mark · Feb 11, 2009

Very cool John. Keep us updated.

PORTER · Feb 11, 2009

I am sure I dont need to tell you that you made a great choice buying an S&N Chassis. You just getting a bare chassis, or are they giving it to you as a roller?

Freeride · Feb 11, 2009

PORTER said:
I am sure I dont need to tell you that you made a great choice buying an S&N Chassis. You just getting a bare chassis, or are they giving it to you as a roller?

Not 100% sure how much they're going to do vs. me do at home yet. We're starting with a bare chassis, but I know I'm going to need help locating the motor/trans/tcase.

They're definitely the go to guys for this stuff, and the pricing is very reasonable.

PORTER · Feb 11, 2009

Freeride said:
They're definitely the go to guys for this stuff, and the pricing is very reasonable.

Top knotch builders for sure. Best money I have ever spent, would do it again in a heartbeat. Good luck bro, and when its done I will welcome you to the club.

Maverick26 · Feb 11, 2009

I also am having them build me there Bravo right after the race. Ill be in this weekend to buy my DOM. As for locating the motor you put the chassis on the ground and then put the motor in and set the pan on a 2" block. Then weld in your motor mounts. Its plug and play from there out. The Trany mount is then welded to the skid plate. They will help you too with no problems. Just be sure the motor is far enough back so the front diff does not come up and take out your balancer, talk to Jason about that one.:awesomework:

Freeride · Feb 11, 2009

Right on, sounds like they'll be doing our chassis at the same time.

So does the drivetrain go in before or after suspension & axles?

Not Jobless · Feb 11, 2009

Freeride said:
So does the drivetrain go in before or after suspension & axles?

It's all got be thought out together in order to make everything fit.

ish · Feb 11, 2009

"Fit" or shoe-horned ?????

Binder · Feb 11, 2009

Freeride said:
Right on, sounds like they'll be doing our chassis at the same time.

So does the drivetrain go in before or after suspension & axles?

If it were me I would build the link mounts on the skid plate first then drop the motor and trans in.
Just think the steps through so you don't have to do things twice. The length of the engine-trans-T case will also play a role in how far foreward or back to place the engine....

Maverick26 · Feb 11, 2009

Binder is right, but the S&N **** comes all done with link tabs on the skid plate already to go. Buy there axle link kit and off you go. You can put your front axle on the links and set the chassis on it, then set a 2x6 thru the chassis tubes at the bottom and moch it up from there. Ill post picks when I do mine. I might see you in S&N too.