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Samurai leaf spring tech

Jon Piper

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Joined
Nov 17, 2015
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Location
Hillsboro , al
At the moment I have my hands on a spoa samurai with stock springs , no front shocks and some half assed rear shocks. I forgot how rough these little things are - beat you to death .... So I start looking at all the old threads on pirate and zukikrawlers and see what the set up to have is and I noticed how old all the threads are. So, what's the new thing to do with a leaf spring Sammy ? Besides "link it" , that's not really an option right now. I want it to ride fairly good on and Offroad and drive as well as one could expect out of such a short wheel base.

I have another set of stock units for a RUF and also a set of yj's and some relocation plates and boomerang shackles.

Can you tell a spits worth of different between a RUF , Cj swap or a YJ swap ?

Am i asking too much ?
 
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It seems like the yj swap is still the goto from what I've seen.

I've wondered why more ppl don't try yota rears all around, as they're as soft or softer than yjs.

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What I have learned with mine that has RUF and YJ rears, it the shock selection that will make the biggest difference. I swear mine is riding on the bump stops it rides so ruff, pull the shocks off and out side of being super bouncy is nice and smooth and super flexy. when we get back to the US with it I'm going to look into getting some custom valve work done on the current shocks as they are rebuild able.
 

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Stickboyracing said:
What I have learned with mine that has RUF and YJ rears, it the shock selection that will make the biggest difference. I swear mine is riding on the bump stops it rides so ruff, pull the shocks off and out side of being super bouncy is nice and smooth and super flexy. when we get back to the US with it I'm going to look into getting some custom valve work done on the current shocks as they are rebuild able.

Cool Sammy !

Why did you choose to go with the RUF and Yj rear ?
 
Sadly thats because I did not bring any FAB tools with me to Japan and I could not drive around a stock Jimny (Samurai). The trail tough Epik trek kit was the most lift and flex for the money on the market I found that I could do with the tools I have access to here. So far in the greater Tokyo area I have not seen anyone else without a body lift run 35's and that was my goal until we get back to the states.
 

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Stickboyracing said:
Sadly thats because I did not bring any FAB tools with me to Japan and I could not drive around a stock Jimny (Samurai). The trail tough Epik trek kit was the most lift and flex for the money on the market I found that I could do with the tools I have access to here. So far in the greater Tokyo area I have not seen anyone else without a body lift run 35's and that was my goal until we get back to the states.

:dblthumb:

More pics of the tin top please !
 
If you have the YJ springs, do it. You can find the template for free on the interwebz and it's not gonna cost you much.

If you're into finding the best performance for a leaf spring, I'd look into Wagoneer springs (offset spring pin).

RUF is great because bolt on and quick to install and leads to great improvements for really cheap. If you want/are ready to fab just skip the RUF and go directly to YJ/something else.
 
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I done yjs with cheap auto zone shocks and it rode and performed great, I did get the template online so it was super cheap, you will have to make a anti wrap bar for the rear.

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The problem with the yota springs is their length. By the time you put them under a samurai that is staying stock wheelbase they would just about touch in the middle. The other alternative is for them to hang out either end by fabbing up some mounts. The YJ's ride pretty good...that's what I had all the way around on mine when I first built it.

Piper...RUF is about the simplest change to get it to sit more level. The RUF with YJ's in the rear is the least intrusive option meaning no fabbing. Another option is Old Man Emu's 1.5" lift springs. Every set of OME's I've ever dealt with rode much better than stock.
 
I had RUF with OME rears. Worked awesome.

You can also do CJ front springs in the rear. Minimal fabrication.
 
How "built" to you think it will be in the future? It seems like every year I have upgraded my suspension and cut off what I thought was good the year before. That's part of the fun of building but looking back, I wish I had done some of it from the beginning.
If I was building one now for a dual purpose rig, I would go YJ front and rear with a shackle reverse on the front.
If you want to try some Waggy springs, I have a set of Rough Country 8004 springs with one pack removed that you can have for this project.
 
I had YJ's up front on mine after I linked the rear. Rode good and articulated well. I went away from them only because they stuck out farther than my times and I bent too many main leafs. Hopefully that wouldn't be an issue for you since you want to keep this one nice.
 
I ran rear YJ's out back and a RUF kit with rear zuk leafs up front on my endurance racing rig RATTLER....and I run a RUF kit on my daily driver / mediocre wheeler project BOX STOCK....



A lil bumper trimmin and clear 235/75/15's on stock rims with no scrubbin ever...







^^^clears fine with same size tires on Ford van aluminum wheels.."find em at the junkyard on those churched up choo choo customs vans" 15x8 with a 3" backspace.



I have run RUF on a few Zuks & love it.
 
yj's front and rear, push the front forward 1", cheap shocks, and some decent seats = 'cloud of titties' (or as close as you can get leafed)

ruf won't flex as much
 
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And I still have those springs and they were almost new when I took them out. If you want to go that route.

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Re: Samurai leaf spring tech

zukimaster said:
When I first got mine, it had 3" yj under the axle with 33" tires, then I put the springs on top of the axle with 36" tires, flexed good and rode pretty good for what it was.
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Did you sell or trade that to weird guy in Fayette County tn? I think a buddy of mine's dad had that thing, or one that looked identical.
 
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