School me on front 60's.

Freeride · Jun 1, 2006

I've decided to squeek out the summer on my front 44, but want to do a 60 this winter. I'm pretty set on a stock Ford HP60, but need to know about the different versions over the years and what to look for. I.e. kingpin vs balljoint, unitbearings, spline counts, etc.

Also, I think I'd like to convert it to 5x5.5 using F150 rotors and is it chevy calipers I think? Anyone have any info on this?

Freeride · Jun 1, 2006

Also, I'd want to narrow it to 65". I assume this means custom inners?

TreeClimber · Jun 1, 2006

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

read this

JACKED944RUNNER · Jun 1, 2006

They are terribly expensive and cutting the will set you back more just get a Currie front probably be cheaper in the long run

Harvester of Sorrow · Jun 1, 2006

JACKED944RUNNER said:
They are terribly expensive and cutting the will set you back more just get a Currie front probably be cheaper in the long run

Wrong...

Currie is not a direction that I would put someone on.

Freeride · Jun 2, 2006

Yeah, I would be suprised if Currie anything was cheaper than "Bothell Built".

Complete RC60 - 1200
Detroit - 500
Gears - 200
Narrow Housing - 200
Cut and spline inners - ?
Misc bearings, rotors, etc - 500

Wow, so that added up to ~$3000 pretty quick.

I could do alloys and CTMs or Long joints for <$1000 in my 44....

T T · Jun 2, 2006

I don't know where you live but we have a guy in the local Puyallup area that can narrow a housing not too terribly exspensive. If the axle came with 35 spline inners you can just have them narrowed locally as well.

Freeride · Jun 2, 2006

I pulled the $200 number off Crash's site. Seems like a smokin' deal to me.

But when I look at the $3000+ to build a 60 versus the $1000 to really beef up my 44, that's a tough call.

Paulie · Jun 2, 2006

id send it to Crash or Troy has a buddy that does the narrowing of housings and shafts, can respline them as well. Shoot Troy a pm

mr4x42u · Jun 2, 2006

Freeride said:
I pulled the $200 number off Crash's site. Seems like a smokin' deal to me.

But when I look at the $3000+ to build a 60 versus the $1000 to really beef up my 44, that's a tough call.

sure its cheaper,,,but the end factor is the 44 under extreme conditions will eat up ball joints and fast..

the 44 is still not as strong and you will still bust stuff..

In the end you will wish you built the 60..the 60 is somthing that will last a long time and tire upgrades are always welcome un like the 44..

imo the extra 2g will be welcome site compared to balljoint changes,,and dpown time from the 44.not to mention you will still want a 60 and selling the 44 won't bring you the cash that you have into it..I know its easier said then done..but your rig will thank you in the long run..

PORTER · Jun 2, 2006

mr4x42u said:
sure its cheaper,,,but the end factor is the 44 under extreme conditions will eat up ball joints and fast..

the 44 is still not as strong and you will still bust stuff..

In the end you will wish you built the 60..the 60 is somthing that will last a long time and tire upgrades are always welcome un like the 44..

imo the extra 2g will be welcome site compared to balljoint changes,,and dpown time from the 44.not to mention you will still want a 60 and selling the 44 won't bring you the cash that you have into it..I know its easier said then done..but your rig will thank you in the long run..

WERD, my brother. Like Shawn said I wouldnt try to compare the the money spent on a turd axle vs a real axle. In the end you will have an axle that you can grow into, and have the peice of mind that when you stand on it parts wont pass you up. Best money I ever spent. There are lots of axle builders that can get it done for you. S&N Fab built both my 60s, and there is Doug Dye(253-279-7996) in Federal Way that did Troys.

JACKED944RUNNER · Jun 2, 2006

Harvester of Sorrow said:
Wrong...

Currie is not a direction that I would put someone on.

Opinions are not right or wrong. At least I did not say Dynatrac.

Bunk1 · Jun 3, 2006

from everything ive read and researched i realized one thing. If i was gonna spend 3 grand on a used HP60(and i had 2) i would still have USED 70's technology. Thats when i stepped up and bought a new HP60 chunk and built from there. My 2 pennys fer yer perusal.

Freeride · Jun 3, 2006

So what are the advantages of an aftermarket center chunk? Clearance for sure. Strength too, but I don't think I've ever seen a broken Ford 60 diff, and I know with the way I wheel (totally sis) that I would be fine.

JACKED944RUNNER · Jun 3, 2006

So go with a 44 then more cost effective

PORTER · Jun 3, 2006

Freeride said:
So what are the advantages of an aftermarket center chunk? Clearance for sure. Strength too, but I don't think I've ever seen a broken Ford 60 diff, and I know with the way I wheel (totally sis) that I would be fine.

Centersection strength is a wash, just more clearence. As for the high pinion I assume you are using because you need a drivers drop? In a buggy chassis I would only use a high pinion if you are competing, as its not that much more clearence. In a street built rig is a good choice because they tend to sit higher, so driveline clearence is maximized. And also you are limited to running 5:38s. Low pinion you can run up to 7:17s wich gives you more options for gearing. I was going to run a high pinion is my S&N Buggy, but was talked out of it by both Jason, and Trevor because of cost of building, weaker knuckles, 6 lug conversion was too expensive, and in a buggy chassis driveline clearence was not worth the extra expense. I would also consider not running 5 on 5 1/2 wheels, but would run a 6, or 8 lug setup. Far more common if you ever have a failure, buy used beadlocks/wheels etc. Been here done that.

briejer · Jun 3, 2006

PORTER said:
Centersection strength is a wash, just more clearence. As for the high pinion I assume you are using because you need a drivers drop? In a buggy chassis I would only use a high pinion if you are competing, as its not that much more clearence. In a street built rig is a good choice because they tend to sit higher, so driveline clearence is maximized. And also you are limited to running 5:38s. Low pinion you can run up to 7:17s wich gives you more options for gearing. I was going to run a high pinion is my S&N Buggy, but was talked out of it by both Jason, and Trevor because of cost of building, weaker knuckles, 6 lug conversion was too expensive, and in a buggy chassis driveline clearence was not worth the extra expense. I would also consider not running 5 on 5 1/2 wheels, but would run a 6, or 8 lug setup. Far more common if you ever have a failure, buy used beadlocks/wheels etc. Been here done that.

High pinion gears are stronger in a front axle.