solid motor and tranny mounts

[no excuses]

can u run solid motor and tranny mounts without any bushings or should I just get some poly bushings?? also where is the best place to get poly bushings???

 

[SCOOTER1]

You can do it either way ..BUT they should be the same ..IE if the motor is solid then the tranny should be also..and same with the poly'z

 

[CrustyJeep]

they should be the same ..IE if the motor is solid then the tranny should be also..and same with the poly'z

Why?


I would say there is no point to solid mounting on a 4x4. Poly it.

 

[no excuses]

as I am sure u figuered out I said tranny when I should have said Tcase mounts. I already have motor mounts solid and was running stock dual tcase rubber mounts and tranny did not like thisuke: so i figured it would be easy to solid mount the tcase. I bought the mount from FROR that bolts to the back of toy Tcases and was wanting to just hard mount them in, yah I am being lazy:looser: ..

 

[--toyguy---]

as long as they are both the same you will be fine. looking for a shaky ride are we? also not sure if it is just me but i for see cracked frames and welds in your future. it seems poly joints do just fine to isolate the chassis from the engine vibrations but still don't give so you have instant throttle response so to speak.

 

[CrustyJeep]

I already have motor mounts solid and was running stock dual tcase rubber mounts and tranny did not like thisuke:

It told you that, did it? WTF do you mean, "did not like this"? I don't see why solid engine + rubber xcase mounts would be a problem...

 

[notstock]

I ran solid motor mounts for a while w/poly bushings. Lots of vibration.

 

[no excuses]

It told you that, did it? WTF do you mean, "did not like this"? I don't see why solid engine + rubber xcase mounts would be a problem...

LOL well the motor cannot twist and the Tcases twist a lot, so something had to give and the tranny case broke at the rear right around the governer (sp). Hence it told me it did not like motor being solid and tcases moving, hope that makes sence..

 

[no excuses]

I ran solid motor mounts for a while w/poly bushings. Lots of vibration.

I run solids with motor plates in my bogger and have solids in my crawler. I really do not feel the vibes at all in my crawler..

 

[SCOOTER1]

LOL well the motor cannot twist and the Tcases twist a lot, so something had to give and the tranny case broke at the rear right around the governer (sp). Hence it told me it did not like motor being solid and tcases moving, hope that makes sence..

This is why I said they should all be the same (crusty)..just what I learnd being a hot rodder as a young lad...but hey I'm no expert do whatever ya wanna do...:hi:

 

[GaryTJ]

The answer is..... do you really feel that the engine block and the transfer case are strong enough to act as another crossmember when the frame flexes????

In most cases it is not.

 

[zig80toy]

The answer is..... do you really feel that the engine block and the transfer case are strong enough to act as another crossmember when the frame flexes????

In most cases it is not.

yeah, wouldn't you want to have something there to absorb some of the torque/vibs

 

[CrustyJeep]

This is why I said they should all be the same (crusty)..just what I learnd being a hot rodder as a young lad...but hey I'm no expert do whatever ya wanna do...:hi:

Whatever you do, I definately do not agree that both ends should be solid or poly mounted such that frame twist will apply stress to the drive train. If you have a chassis stiff enough (like a tube thingy), then go for it, otherwise you're looking to break something.

In stock config, the engine mounts take all the drive train torque, while the tranny or case mount only provides support. If your gearing is deep enough, tires large enough, etc. to be over stressing the drive train casings, then you'll want to move the torque mounts to the transfer case. If you do that, you'll need to change the way the motor mounts work, bassically reversing the roles of the mounts. Stock rubber engine mounts and stiff poly t-case mounts should work... Personally though, I'd switch to a competely different engine mounting, like one big poly mount centered below the front of the engine on a cross member, providing stiff support but allowing the chassis to twist freely around it.

 

[SCOOTER1]

Whatever you do, I definately do not agree that both ends should be solid or poly mounted such that frame twist will apply stress to the drive train. If you have a chassis stiff enough (like a tube thingy), then go for it, otherwise you're looking to break something.

In stock config, the engine mounts take all the drive train torque, while the tranny or case mount only provides support. If your gearing is deep enough, tires large enough, etc. to be over stressing the drive train casings, then you'll want to move the torque mounts to the transfer case. If you do that, you'll need to change the way the motor mounts work, bassically reversing the roles of the mounts. Stock rubber engine mounts and stiff poly t-case mounts should work... Personally though, I'd switch to a competely different engine mounting, like one big poly mount centered below the front of the engine on a cross member, providing stiff support but allowing the chassis to twist freely around it.

I wouldn't even consider..doing it to a stock type set up ..only to something that is caged, I guess I should have stated that, and By caged I mean it's almost a tube thingie.....BUT that is the wonder of this hobby we all have our differen't "REDNECK INJUNEARING" that we all think is the correct way to go ....so I guess we can agree to disagree :cheer:

 

[TMFabrication]

I ran poly mounts all around in my K5 for a while, took them out and went back to stock rubber after breaking a TH400 case near the top is Isabelle due to frame twist and melting two sets of motor mounts (they don't like block hugger headers) You need to take chassis flex into coinsideration because poly mounts don't give very much if at all.