no excuses
Well-Known Member
can u run solid motor and tranny mounts without any bushings or should I just get some poly bushings?? also where is the best place to get poly bushings???
Why?SCOOTER said:they should be the same ..IE if the motor is solid then the tranny should be also..and same with the poly'z
It told you that, did it? WTF do you mean, "did not like this"? I don't see why solid engine + rubber xcase mounts would be a problem...no excuses said:I already have motor mounts solid and was running stock dual tcase rubber mounts and tranny did not like thisuke:
CrustyJeep said:It told you that, did it? WTF do you mean, "did not like this"? I don't see why solid engine + rubber xcase mounts would be a problem...
notstock said:I ran solid motor mounts for a while w/poly bushings. Lots of vibration.
no excuses said:LOL well the motor cannot twist and the Tcases twist a lot, so something had to give and the tranny case broke at the rear right around the governer (sp). Hence it told me it did not like motor being solid and tcases moving, hope that makes sence..
GaryTJ said:The answer is..... do you really feel that the engine block and the transfer case are strong enough to act as another crossmember when the frame flexes????
In most cases it is not.
Whatever you do, I definately do not agree that both ends should be solid or poly mounted such that frame twist will apply stress to the drive train. If you have a chassis stiff enough (like a tube thingy), then go for it, otherwise you're looking to break something.SCOOTER said:This is why I said they should all be the same (crusty)..just what I learnd being a hot rodder as a young lad...but hey I'm no expert do whatever ya wanna do...:hi:
CrustyJeep said:Whatever you do, I definately do not agree that both ends should be solid or poly mounted such that frame twist will apply stress to the drive train. If you have a chassis stiff enough (like a tube thingy), then go for it, otherwise you're looking to break something.
In stock config, the engine mounts take all the drive train torque, while the tranny or case mount only provides support. If your gearing is deep enough, tires large enough, etc. to be over stressing the drive train casings, then you'll want to move the torque mounts to the transfer case. If you do that, you'll need to change the way the motor mounts work, bassically reversing the roles of the mounts. Stock rubber engine mounts and stiff poly t-case mounts should work... Personally though, I'd switch to a competely different engine mounting, like one big poly mount centered below the front of the engine on a cross member, providing stiff support but allowing the chassis to twist freely around it.