starting my gotpropane install help

reefermadnes · Mar 22, 2013

Alright, Im starting my install of the gotpropane kit on my cj7 w/350. Im going to pull the heads off this weekend to have them freshened up, Is there anything I should be aware of, or look out for when pulling the heads off. Any good machine shops that know propane?:beer:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 22, 2013

If its a SBC 350, you can buy better heads cheaper than you can rebuild average ones.

jeffroadams · Mar 22, 2013

Looking forward to see how this goes for you. I have been considering this kit myself

reefermadnes · Mar 22, 2013

the kit itself looks like its as simple as could be,there is nothing to it.Should be a easy install. Im doing some work to the heads because I think I have a cross threaded plug and it cant hurt to have them freshened up.I would be interested in buying a set of heads if someone has some already done. :beer:

ChrisStewart · Mar 22, 2013

Don't forget your wideband a/f gauge. Don't believe the smells like onion bread bullshit that some dipshit gave you in your earlier thread. To rich will put a hole in your piston.

mark · Mar 22, 2013

Make sure your cooling system is in top-notch condition. That is the life-blood of making propane work.

Mount the vaporizer lower than the highest point of the rad to make it easier to keep the air out of it. There is also a bleed-port in the vaporizer that makes life a TON easier to ensure the air is out and coolant is flowing. It's a flush plug in the side of the vaporizer body, I actually got a couple small pipe fittings and extended it and put an external brass cap on it to make it very simple to bleed the system. But then I seem to have radiator issues and am constantly have to rebuild it (racing and tree dodging is hard on radiators it seems, I need to learn how to drive :redneck

Other than fuel storage and the limited ability to "top off" the tanks after a day of wheeling, Propane is nice.

reefermadnes · Mar 22, 2013

ive got the a/f gauge ordered,should be here monday.As far as the cooling,im already running a new griffin aluminum radiator and a electric fan w/controller and cool flex metal hoses.I have a guy at work that runs pane on his van and he uses a 1" brass nipple instead of the hose between the vaporizer and carb.Its about a 6" nipple and basically is hard mounted to the carb without any brackets or long hose.Anybody see any disadvantages to this?

mark · Mar 22, 2013

On my first set-up I did the hard-line direct connection. It was supposed to be the "best" way. With min the vaporizer ended up being pretty much as the same level as my radiator cap, so if I wasn't careful or lost any coolant (slightly weeping radiator didn't help any) I could get an air bubble and it would freeze. This was before I knew about the bleed plug and was still learning how this stuff worked. With a solid rad and knowing how to bleed they system it might not be an issue now, just make sure to brace/mount it security so the hard-line doesn't crack anything (we are harder on things than any street-rig)

In my current set-up I actually have the vaporizer mounted vertically on the firewall inside the rig (no top, no doors, pretty open so I'm not too worried). Keeps it clean and I can monitor it and see if its freezing up or having issues without popping the hood. I like it there and it made for a pretty clean install as well. I shouldn't have to monitor it, but since my rig is a clapped out hoopty with junk yard parts.... keeping an eye on it is a good idea.

reefermadnes · Mar 23, 2013

I also thought about bracing it if i go without the hose, and also was wondering about mounting inside too.Somewhere I thought I saw something about the vaporizer cant be to far away from the carb? :beer:

mark · Mar 23, 2013

Depends on what "too far away" is.

The longer the hose, the more resistance for the low pressure gas. What that magical distance is I don't know. Mines about 12" or so. I know it was pretty common in the 70's/80's to mount the vaporizer on the inner fender of trucks so that would be about 24-30" of hose and many of those trucks are still on the road. *I* wouldn't worry about it too much unless you were thinking of mounting it in the rear of the truck :haha:

stealthrunner1 · Mar 23, 2013

Cary's Kits are the Sh**!!!!!!:awesomework::beer:

reefermadnes · Mar 26, 2013

Well got started on the pane conversion.Heads are off and going into a shop in the next couple days.Gas tank and skid plate are out,WOW the clearance now in the rear is awesome.Now time to clean up the block and engine bay a bit. Any reputable machine shops that someone can recommend?:beer::beer::beer:

CHOP SHOP · Mar 26, 2013

Scott Performance in Auburn.253 981 3180

reefermadnes · Mar 26, 2013

Thanks for the info :awesomework: will be calling them in the morning.

reefermadnes · Mar 27, 2013

any idea on shop rates? and a general ball park guess as the cost to freshen up the heads as long as theres no issues.I have an idea i have a bad valve guides or seats from the oil deposits on my plugs and the buildup on the pistons.:awesomework:

reefermadnes · Mar 27, 2013

Over the past month or so everytime I go to fired it up it is loaded up with fuel and runs super rich until its cleared out,Smells very gasy at first and after some reving up of the engine it will clear out and run perfect with no smell?Could it have been my carb draining down into the intake/heads?

ChrisStewart · Mar 27, 2013

If you replace the valve seats. Go with hardened valve seats. Since propane enters the motor at 100 percent vapor it hammers them. I didn't do it on mine but from all the aussie and new zeland alt fuel forums, that is the number one thing they suggest . They have good tech on their forums.