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Stephen Broady's "An Actual Trail Rig" build

It's just an inexpensive backup camera Jason found on Amazon.

:dblthumb:
 
few more updates:

drive shafts are mocked up
Suspension flex tested
Front brakes are on , rears will be this week

we went with Mark Williams products on the brakes as well as the remainder of yokes / cap kits (all 1410)

elrods performance limit straps landed as well

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You trust that hard mount 2 bolt flange pillow block?
Looks like something I'd use on a 100hp Toyota

being all 1410 joints, it's probably much beefier than it looks in the pics.
 
You trust that hard mount 2 bolt flange pillow block?
Looks like something I'd use on a 100hp Toyota

being all 1410 joints, it's probably much beefier than it looks in the pics.

Nick,
It's built with a 14 bolt pinion. So ID of the bearing is 1-5/8". It's pretty beefy. I ran a very similar size in my old buggy. It lasted years of trail wheeling before mud killed the bearing itself when I was racing ECORS. The ball bearings were gone and the only thing left was the housing with the drive shaft beating around inside it and we made it to the finish line with it like that. Probably half a lap or more at the Durham town? GAP? race.

I've used this set up or very similar in every buggy I've built and a couple buddies with the same platform as well.

It's proven and works. Is it super bling? No. If he was desert racing, high speeds for hours, I'd go a different direction. But who knows, it may hold up to that too. But I'd be more comfortable doing something oil bath for a sustained high speed application.
 
Nick,
It's built with a 14 bolt pinion. So ID of the bearing is 1-5/8". It's pretty beefy. I ran a very similar size in my old buggy. It lasted years of trail wheeling before mud killed the bearing itself when I was racing ECORS. The ball bearings were gone and the only thing left was the housing with the drive shaft beating around inside it and we made it to the finish line with it like that. Probably half a lap or more at the Durham town? GAP? race.

I've used this set up or very similar in every buggy I've built and a couple buddies with the same platform as well.

It's proven and works. Is it super bling? No. If he was desert racing, high speeds for hours, I'd go a different direction. But who knows, it may hold up to that too. But I'd be more comfortable doing something oil bath for a sustained high speed application.

I assumed it was big (hard to get a size reference in pictures ya know). I was lookin at the housing itself, being webbed out on the backside (and I'm assuming some sort of cast iron). Sounds like you've failure tested the housing too!
I figured you knew what you were doing to put it on a rig of this caliber.

I used a 4 bolt flange housing one with a 1 piece bracket, worked great. It was a self aligning, just clamped to the OD of a driveshaft slip. That took care of the movement of the (not hard mounted) drivetrain.


All those custom bearing housings and whatnot that people use seem a bit excessive when a standard industrial part will work
 
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Howe in-line steering cooler mocked up.
Went with the larger 3"x12" diameter. P#1150

Chris built some cool stand-offs with tube so it would mount without protruding through the side panels. It will be rotated up some from these pics to mitigate possible damage.

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Howe in-line steering cooler mocked up.
Went with the larger 3"x12" diameter. P#1150

Chris built some cool stand-offs with tube so it would mount without protruding through the side panels. It will be rotated up some from these pics to mitigate possible damage.

View attachment 148688View attachment 148689
View attachment 148690
I have the same howe Coolers for my rig, I have always seen them mounted side to side I'm curious if it matters. one of the last things I'm buttoning up on my rig is where to clamp the steering coolers front and rear.
 
I have the same howe Coolers for my rig, I have always seen them mounted side to side I'm curious if it matters. one of the last things I'm buttoning up on my rig is where to clamp the steering coolers front and rear.

It's more about air flow than mounting orientation.

Front of the chassis has zero space.
 

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