Nuzzy
Well-Known Member
Lookin good 
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
surgery
- Thread starter dr drae
- Start date
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
Here's the pics I got of Aaron installing his beadlocks:
His 38" Creepy Crawler next to my 35" BFG Krawler spare:
His 38" Creepy Crawler next to my 35" BFG Krawler spare:
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
Here's the pics I got of Aaron installing his beadlocks:
His 38" Creepy Crawler next to my 35" BFG Krawler spare:
damn those are some small ass 38's or some huge 35's:wtf:
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
x2, John just how tall are your 35" krawlers?
Avanteone
Well-Known Member
They measure about 35.5". To be fair, mine had air in it and his 38" tire did not.
J
Made some progress yesterday (no pics though... ) after we got some yard work out of the way and hauled 250lbs of debris to the transfer station. My truck weighs 7400 lbs I learned.
Added airsoft and got the 38's aired up. They definately round out like comanchekids 37's, but not terrible. Got them bolted up to the axles. Booty fabbed a temp tie rod so we could roll things around. 77.5" outside of tire to outside of tire rear axle and 79" front. Bottom of the axle tubes sit about 17" off the ground, bottom of the diffs 12". Pretty close clearance on the calipers F/R, no rubbing, but I might do just a bit of grinding for insurance.
Other big goal for the day was the D30 front end. Got the axle pulled, pulled the LCA drop brackets and braces, and got the front end up nice and high to begin 'frame' prep. Man what I wouldn't give for a lift or some super tall jack stands. Also took measurements for reworking the front bumper.
Anyone have a clue how to get the bolt out of the axle end of the track bar? The tab that is welded onto the nut bent to sh*t and once we got a wrench on the nut we got it off the bolt, but what's the trick on getting that bolt out of the lower bushing? It just spins and we couldn't get enough leverage on it w/a pry bar to get it out of the bushing, thus the drag link is still attached to the axle.
) after we got some yard work out of the way and hauled 250lbs of debris to the transfer station. My truck weighs 7400 lbs I learned. Added airsoft and got the 38's aired up. They definately round out like comanchekids 37's, but not terrible. Got them bolted up to the axles. Booty fabbed a temp tie rod so we could roll things around. 77.5" outside of tire to outside of tire rear axle and 79" front. Bottom of the axle tubes sit about 17" off the ground, bottom of the diffs 12". Pretty close clearance on the calipers F/R, no rubbing, but I might do just a bit of grinding for insurance.
Other big goal for the day was the D30 front end. Got the axle pulled, pulled the LCA drop brackets and braces, and got the front end up nice and high to begin 'frame' prep. Man what I wouldn't give for a lift or some super tall jack stands. Also took measurements for reworking the front bumper.
Anyone have a clue how to get the bolt out of the axle end of the track bar? The tab that is welded onto the nut bent to sh*t and once we got a wrench on the nut we got it off the bolt, but what's the trick on getting that bolt out of the lower bushing? It just spins and we couldn't get enough leverage on it w/a pry bar to get it out of the bushing, thus the drag link is still attached to the axle.
jeepmauler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2006
- Messages
- 2,064
Slidehammer with vise gripend and get sassy
With the new parts on?
Found out my Atlas is in the pipe, should ship next week.
Also got around to taking some pics...
Lovin driving the CTD right about now.
I'm not sure why my brother bought these 8oz cans, maybe so you can impress people by saying "****, I drank 30 beers last night"? :haha:
adding airsoft to the spare, and yes I remembered the valve stem
blingin fullsize spare all mounted up
time to grind
gained a lot of clearance, not sure how much more I can safely go
all done
don't have jackstands tall enough, had to improvise (yes the boards are screwed onto the rounds :; )
-8.25
need to get a new rear brakeline made, XJ end
and axle end
doesn't black photograph well?
Looks like I didn't get pics of the rear axle after we got it under the jeep, huh, I thought I did. I guess it didn't happen. :redneck:
Also got around to taking some pics...
Lovin driving the CTD right about now.
I'm not sure why my brother bought these 8oz cans, maybe so you can impress people by saying "****, I drank 30 beers last night"? :haha:
adding airsoft to the spare, and yes I remembered the valve stem
blingin fullsize spare all mounted up
time to grind
gained a lot of clearance, not sure how much more I can safely go
all done
don't have jackstands tall enough, had to improvise (yes the boards are screwed onto the rounds :; )
-8.25
need to get a new rear brakeline made, XJ end
and axle end
doesn't black photograph well?
Looks like I didn't get pics of the rear axle after we got it under the jeep, huh, I thought I did.
I guess it didn't happen. :redneck:Aight, time for some updated pics...
Round 2. John90XJ, you'd be proud, 220 grit to smooth it out, 1 coat, done. Back of wheel, no primer, one coat, done. How much do I owe you for the OCD treatment?
All mounted up, that's perfect Diezel, stand right there while I'm taking a pic...
Getting the rear axle mocked up.
Moving the axle 1" back means modifying the DPG plates, the start of a lot of drilling. All 8 holes for the u-bolts needed to be bored out to 5/8" and the centering hole redrilled 1" forward on center.
Measure twice, drill once. Fortunately I could unbolt the bump stop and flip it over, b/c I drilled 2 lefts
Can you say loooong u-bolts? I guess for people who run blocks?? not sure who that is...
Nothing like shooting sparks at your gas tank.
Cool grinding pic.
All buttoned up, about half the tread hangs out. Guess I could have gone wider.
Rear shocks in place, w/the blocks gone and the lower shock mounts located higher on the axle, my shocks may be too short. May be. Can't articulate it on the jack stands, but it probably won't be an issue b/c I think tire clearance in the fender well will limit my uptravel before my shock length comes into play...
If you love it, lube it. Cool action pic of lube in motion.
All drilled up and ready for some rosette welding to the unidbody, yay! This pic was followed by about an hour with acetone and then the wire wheel. I let those things sit too long, they actually had surface rust. Didn't get a pic of them all clean and shiny.
I tell you what man, stripper in a can (he he) is a god send. You spray this stuff on and the undercoating oozes off. Scrape off the goo and slime, then saddle up your creeper for some time in the sanding saddle.
Look at it oozing off the unibody.
Crap, forgot to cut off the LCA mounts...
Time to modify my bumper plates to figure out how much I need to cut off my TMR plates.
Put the Clayton crossmember in place to try to figure out if I should cut part of the TNT pieces out to weld the crossmember directly to the unibody, or if I should leave the TNT pieces and weld the crossmember to it?
Found out a piece of bad news, my exhaust doesn't like that crossmember where it is, may have to have it reworked down the road.
F&*k these stainless lug nuts, they're worthless.
Lastly did some clearance grinding on the front calipers, they didn't touch the 15" rims, but it was close. Forgot to take pics of that action.
Round 2. John90XJ, you'd be proud, 220 grit to smooth it out, 1 coat, done. Back of wheel, no primer, one coat, done. How much do I owe you for the OCD treatment?
All mounted up, that's perfect Diezel, stand right there while I'm taking a pic...
Getting the rear axle mocked up.
Moving the axle 1" back means modifying the DPG plates, the start of a lot of drilling. All 8 holes for the u-bolts needed to be bored out to 5/8" and the centering hole redrilled 1" forward on center.
Measure twice, drill once. Fortunately I could unbolt the bump stop and flip it over, b/c I drilled 2 lefts
Can you say loooong u-bolts? I guess for people who run blocks?? not sure who that is...
Nothing like shooting sparks at your gas tank.
Cool grinding pic.
All buttoned up, about half the tread hangs out. Guess I could have gone wider.
Rear shocks in place, w/the blocks gone and the lower shock mounts located higher on the axle, my shocks may be too short. May be. Can't articulate it on the jack stands, but it probably won't be an issue b/c I think tire clearance in the fender well will limit my uptravel before my shock length comes into play...
If you love it, lube it. Cool action pic of lube in motion.
All drilled up and ready for some rosette welding to the unidbody, yay! This pic was followed by about an hour with acetone and then the wire wheel. I let those things sit too long, they actually had surface rust. Didn't get a pic of them all clean and shiny.
I tell you what man, stripper in a can (he he) is a god send. You spray this stuff on and the undercoating oozes off. Scrape off the goo and slime, then saddle up your creeper for some time in the sanding saddle.
Look at it oozing off the unibody.
Crap, forgot to cut off the LCA mounts...
Time to modify my bumper plates to figure out how much I need to cut off my TMR plates.
Put the Clayton crossmember in place to try to figure out if I should cut part of the TNT pieces out to weld the crossmember directly to the unibody, or if I should leave the TNT pieces and weld the crossmember to it?
Found out a piece of bad news, my exhaust doesn't like that crossmember where it is, may have to have it reworked down the road.
F&*k these stainless lug nuts, they're worthless.
Lastly did some clearance grinding on the front calipers, they didn't touch the 15" rims, but it was close. Forgot to take pics of that action.
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
Excellent pics. Excellent progress.
When we did FiFo's TnT LA the first time, we had to grind a bit off the belly pan to clear the exhaust too.
When we did FiFo's TnT LA the first time, we had to grind a bit off the belly pan to clear the exhaust too.
![IMG_6235[1].JPG](http://attachments.www.hardlinecrawlers.com/xfmg/thumbnail/12/12435-71004c1233c9b16c2da7a7b24cbeec2d.jpg?1625929687)