Tapping Weld in Bungs for Links

[GT_Buggy]

I bought this tap below to run through my weld in bungs after welding because one of the rod ends would not go in the bung. I ran the tap through and then the threads were way too loose. What do you guys use after welding in the bung to get the rod end to thread in nicely? (Rod ends and bungs are from WOD QA1 1-1/4)

http://drillsandcutters.com/1-1-4-12-carbon-steel-plug-hand-tap/

 

[zjtrey]

I keep and old rod end around that i thread into the insert before welding, then take it out when I'm done, keeps the threads from deforming and keeps spatter out of the threads also, Im sure there are better tricks out there but this one works well for me. I always take it out while its hot because i've had some seize up in the past…

 

[croes]

I have 1-1/4-12 LH and RH taps. What does the tap say on the side, I'm wondering if your tap is oversized to accommodate plating or coating etc.

Mine aren't ever loose afterwards.

 

[The-Boss]

I have 1-1/4-12 LH and RH taps. What does the tap say on the side, I'm wondering if your tap is oversized to accommodate plating or coating etc.

Mine aren't ever loose afterwards.

Same here. Don't remember the brand but I have a couple nice taps I bought from Enco and have used them for just that on about 4 rigs with steel bungs, as well as drilled and tapped a few 7075 links with them. I found the only time they were loose after is if I didn't put enough cutting fluid in while taping.

Another trick I have heard is taking an old heim and cutting some of the threads off down the shank. This will give the heim threads a cutting edge like a tap. Never had to try it but would in a pinch or if I didn't have good taps.

 

[GT_Buggy]

I keep and old rod end around that i thread into the insert before welding, then take it out when I'm done, keeps the threads from deforming and keeps spatter out of the threads also, Im sure there are better tricks out there but this one works well for me. I always take it out while its hot because i've had some seize up in the past…

thought about this but did not have a spare. Maybe I need to buy just a cheap spare.

 

[GT_Buggy]

I have 1-1/4-12 LH and RH taps. What does the tap say on the side, I'm wondering if your tap is oversized to accommodate plating or coating etc.

Mine aren't ever loose afterwards.

Do you remember where you bought your taps? I think mine has to be over sized for something because its super loose

 

[croes]

Got em used off ebay. What does the tap say on it?

http://tapmatic.com/tapping-questions/class-of-threads-h-limits

 

[Toddy]

Try to run the jam nut over the tap. If it won't thread on tap you got a cheap ass tap and its prob over sized. If nut does thread on tap something funky happened on that one insert.

 

[Nuts]

Another trick I have heard is taking an old heim and cutting some of the threads off down the shank. This will give the heim threads a cutting edge like a tap. Never had to try it but would in a pinch or if I didn't have good taps.

I've done that with bolts before and it works fairly well. I usually make 4 grooves down the length of the bolt with a cut off wheel and that'll clean up most spatter balls or dirt and grit without killing the threads

 

[LightBnDr]

Hmm I cover my rod end with masking tape with it threaded into the bung while I weld it in. Then un thread the rod end so the nylon doesn't distort.

Didn't realize this was a problem

 

[The-Boss]

Hmm I cover my rod end with masking tape with it threaded into the bung while I weld it in. Then un thread the rod end so the nylon doesn't distort.

Didn't realize this was a problem

I always assumed it would destroy the cromo heat treatment. I worry about the nylon getting hot and changing also. When people talk about some heims not lasting then they get another set that do, first thing that jumps in my mind is were they exposed to excessive heat during the build. Seems like you would have to leave it in until it cooled to solve the post weld threading problem but doesn't sound like you have.

 

[LightBnDr]

You gotta think that it takes less than a minute to weld in a bung. Then stab a screwdriver through the hole and un thread the heim. You can hold the heim bare handed right after you weld the bung. I have never had any trouble.

I use Ruffstuff heims

 

[The-Boss]

If you can hold it bare handed it may not be doing much harm. Not sure if you tig but with the mig hot I fill a large bevel and make a single pass then do 2 or 3 plug welds and it gets extremely hot. If it were a 1.25 probably won't matter anyway if the nylon doesn't get too hot. On a smaller heim I would be concerned. The exterior of the heim is probably the hardest part and that would see the most heat before heat soak. Unless you melt the liner it would only matter right at failure or shorten the wear life. Might not make any difference if you remove it quickly. I just play it safe. If I didn't have taps for making AL links then I would just keep a old one around for welding.

 

[LightBnDr]

Lol, saw this right as I finished lunch.

I just responded in the beginning because the problem that began the thread was one I had never heard of. Then I read that some of you are buying a tap then sometimes the rod end fits loose and I thought to myself, holy cow.

I even have to keep my rod ends tight in a new pair of 3/8 tabs while I at least weld 3/4 of them, otherwise the tabs will spread and good luck getting enough ass on a bolt to cinch 3/8 tabs together. Point being soon as I weld em I don't waste time yanking the rod end out to stay cool.

I just know theres no way I'm buying $200 in heims then a $70 tap to then get spatter in my threads and have my rod ends fit my bungs loose, possibly. Im at least gonna stuff a wet rag in there while I weld em to keep spatter out. I prefer the rod in method though.

Carry on. I'm so ready for a vacation

 

[croes]

I even have to keep my rod ends tight in a new pair of 3/8 tabs while I at least weld 3/4 of them, otherwise the tabs will spread and good luck getting enough ass on a bolt to cinch 3/8 tabs together. Point being soon as I weld em I don't waste time yanking the rod end out to stay cool.

I just know theres no way I'm buying $200 in heims then a $70 tap to then get spatter in my threads and have my rod ends fit my bungs loose, possibly. Im at least gonna stuff a wet rag in there while I weld em to keep spatter out. I prefer the rod in method though.

2 things for you

-anti spatter spray
-make spacers out of tubing to put between the tabs when welding rather than your rod ends

I don't have to worry about spatter, I do 2-3 tig passes on bungs depending on wall thickness.

 

[The-Boss]

-make spacers out of tubing to put between the tabs when welding rather than your rod ends

I do this but recommend making the spacer an 1/8" or 1/16" wider than the heim misalignment spacers and tighten the bolt. Mine usually draw in snug. If not after you take the heim or spacer out it is almost impossible to spread 3/8 tabs with gussets under a rig.

 

[croes]

I do this but recommend making the spacer an 1/8" or 1/16" wider than the heim misalignment spacers and tighten the bolt. Mine usually draw in snug. If not after you take the heim or spacer out it is almost impossible to spread 3/8 tabs with gussets under a rig.

Yep, left that part out. I have a bin full of spacers for c/o's, ori's, 2.63 joints and 3/4 heims with inserts. I typically only go 1/16" wider and don't typically have an issue getting stuff together. If I do I have a 1.5" solid drift punch that'll "reset" the tabs with a 2 lb hammer. ;D

I usually only finger tighten the nut because I don't care if it draws out a little.

 

[GT_Buggy]

Here is the tap I have. The nut will not thread onto it with out a lot of force so I guess I got the wrong tap some how. Any one have a link to a good set of rh and lh taps?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rokcrler]

Re:

Are you sure you don't have 1-1/4-14t?

 

[croes]

I'm gonna guess its a cheapo China tap, especially for $25. A good tap of this size will run $50-75. Just put it in the freezer for a few hours before you use it!