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"The mistress"

I also extened the front frame and mounted up the toy steering box.
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The bolt tubes tacked in.
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A lil box I made to capture that top mounting bolt.
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Nice fit
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Im building my own high steer kit.I bought a left hand 3/4x16 tap and a r.h. useing 1 1/4" dom .313 wall.
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Drilling out the high steer arms to fit the 5/8 bolt for the heims instead of the fj80 tie rods ends.
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Also i got the body set back on it.I was all clearanced out on this,then I went and put that jeep trans and the klune v in there...now **** dont fit again cause the jeep trans is wider.

Now you can see whay I had such problems fitting the front driveline.I got the motor sitting in there way far back and realll low...excellant.
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Thats all I got for now guys
 
Looks good. :awesomework: I was just wondering what you were gonna do about the front driveline/starter clearance running such a low ride height, and there it is. I actually broke that ear off the starter and bent my front driveline bouncing a little too hard with the old springs. :booo: Definately find a way to support the starter with that ear gone, mine worked fine most of the time but would lock up on occasion. I jbwelded the ear back on and it was fine. :redneck:
 
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double sheer is where the top of the hiem and the bottom of the hiem is captured. That way, your bolt does not have a single sheer point, it has two sheer points. a don't have to use that thick of material on the top sheer to make it effective.
 
I dont see why you would have to run double shear on the high steer arms, with mike running a steering box with hydro assit, i dont think that there is enough force being place on that bolt to shear it.
If it was a full-hydro steering system id think about it, im running full hydro with the same heims, on 42's and the stock outer knuckle (on a 60) gave out before my single shear high steer did. just my .02

Looks pimp mike :cool:
 
I dont see why you would have to run double shear on the high steer arms, with mike running a steering box with hydro assit, i dont think that there is enough force being place on that bolt to shear it.
If it was a full-hydro steering system id think about it, im running full hydro with the same heims, on 42's and the stock outer knuckle (on a 60) gave out before my single shear high steer did. just my .02

Looks pimp mike :cool:



With a heim in single sheer it will loosen the bolts and wobble out the holes in the arms. Hydro assist puts out almost as much force so it will do the same as full hydro over time.
 
Cool thanks for clearing that up for me.Thats pretty much what I assumed you ment by that just wasnt 100% sure.

I didnt plan on doing that"double shear" the heim bolts.No doubt on the strength and durablility that would offer.Ill run what Ive done and watch for wear there.I do always go through the bolt tightning serimony before I head out to go wheel and that habit wont change on this rig.

Ive found its important to always chedck the trunion studs and u joint flange bolts and especialy the steering fasteners.And now Ill have to add link jam nuts to that list.

Thanks for the ? and bringing that to my attention.:awesomework:
 
I put the hood on it to get an idea how much vision im going to have.

I want to keep the hood real low and narrow for better vision.

Ill take 6"s out of the corners on the hood each side(pin the hood)

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Side view.The front of the hood will come down another 1" or so and still have plenty of room for my radiator.

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In this pic you can see the stock dog house,my trans sits about 6"s lower than the top of the dog house.So im going to hack it all out and build my own to get some more storgae room and foot room.


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Starting to look like a zuk now:awesomework:
 
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So I busted out the skinny wheels and went to cuttin.I pretty much hacked it all out and had to build a new fire wall section to cover the giant hole I made.

The inside.

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I made it a bit bigger cause I cut that one section out of the firewall cause it had a bunch of holes in it i didnt want.

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There an idention on the firewall that I had to build a piece for to seal it up.

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So there I have a new firewall now I need to build the doghouse.I kinda need a sheetmetal brake to do this but I dont have one and Ive shot my budget for the build so I decided I would try to build my own.Cause I dont want to pay someone to build this part,I want to build everything I can in my own garage.

So I went down to the metal store and got what I need to build a sheetmetal brake.

Here she is

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I built a holder for it so it set right off the edge of the bench so I got somthing there to support the work piece.Used a reciever hitch type set up.

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close up

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Lika this

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The brake was a fun project in its self.It cost $50.00 in material and about 6 hours of work.

It leaves a nice lil radius on the bend ,works good!

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So time to actually build somthing with this new custon tool.:cheer:

Never done this before so I dove in head first like usual and hope for the best.If the **** dont work build it again untill it does.

I got me a dose of beginners luck I think it fits nice.:redneck:

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The triangle on the pass side is for extra room for the exhaust to come down and through there.

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The next section of it.These 2 pieces will be welded in permanantly.

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Next is the piece that covers the klune v and the dana 300 twin sticks.This piece will be a bolt on so I can remove it to get access in case I have shifter issues.just to make it easier to work on later down the road.Plus it has to be built wider than the other sections of the dog house so I think it wioll be easier to do it like that.

Thanks for looking.Any tips on sheetmetal work would be great.:beer:
 
No tips eh? thats alright im doing a fair job of teaching myself how to do this kinda stuff.:flipoff:

Got the removable section almost done,just need to drill some holes for the mounting flnge and make holes for the shifters and mount up the shifter boots.:redneck:

I cant manage to get the klunev shifter in the center cause of how i have my dana 300 clocked for the placement of the front output.So I had to make the driversside wider also.

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Damn, with that low of a floor now you can drop the seats down a couple inches and section the firewall a few and have a sick low body.... :D

the body will rest at its stock heigth.The smaller tunnel will be nice,ill have alot more foot room in this one.


I didnt see ya at the allseasons event,did you no show?
 
I was there but I was in such a hurry to get the rodeo ready to go that it was 2am before I realized I hadn't barrowed a trailer to get it there. :haha: I saw the rig and didn't even realize it was yours.
 
I was there but I was in such a hurry to get the rodeo ready to go that it was 2am before I realized I hadn't barrowed a trailer to get it there. :haha: I saw the rig and didn't even realize it was yours.

Righton,for christ sake how many blue and grey beat to **** sj 410's do ya see around :redneck::haha:
 
lots of shifters

I got the holes cut out for the shifters.I think Ill bend the dana300 shifters over a lil bit and make the trans shifter just come up strait.

I just wanted to get this piece built and finished so I know I have no issues here.Looks like everything is going to fit good and the seats will mount ok.So next I need to take the body back off and do a bunch wedling on the frames brackets and fish plates.

Heres some pics of the shifters.

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Im enjoying playing with that new metal brake,it fun learning new stuff especialy new metal fab stuff.
 
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