Torque converter stall speeds?

wanderingwillys · Jun 19, 2006

I am wondering if to bother having a altered converted made for the AW-4 going into the Willys - I like the theory of a stardard part just for easy of getting new ones - but on the other hand my XJ is still on the factory converter from 91'...

Any theories about what RPM levels work well...

The 1st/low/low/axle crawl ratio stands at ~132:1 without the converter...

Any takers:corn:

Matt

TreeClimber · Jun 19, 2006

NO!

Don't do it!

I have a 401V8, Th400, Atlas 4.3, 4.56 axles ratios. My original T/C was a 900 stall and I absolutely couldn't stop it with the brakes. Had to put it into neutral every time I wanted to stop (and sometimes even slow down) when in low range. And you're geared twice as low as I am. Leave it stock. IF you go to a higher than stock stall speed, then you build unneccessary heat when cruising in high range.

My .02$

Tony

PORTER · Jun 19, 2006

at a 132-1 you will need a higher stall. I am at 50 something to one, and push throught the brakes in low 1st gear only. I wish I had put a 400 over stock comverter, as it would be perfect. A bit of stall is good, but too much you will build up too much heat. I would also advise going with a stage 3 shift kit to make it full manual shifting so you can start out in a higher gear to avoid the push.

wanderingwillys · Jun 19, 2006

So the vote is stock or slightly higher stall speed - that number was with both cases in low...

I don't know if braking will be any different as I will be running the ~11" vented rear discs off a mid 80's eldorado as pinion brakes on the rockwells with a double vac booster... (the booster may or may not stay)

Matt

TreeClimber · Jun 19, 2006

Willy, you and Porter are both trailer queens (or so the pics look like) so I too would go about 3-500 over stock. But I'm a streetable wheeler, so I give up a little off-road-ability for street. I re-T/C'ed my back to stock (around 1350-1400) and it works great on the street, and I only push thru the brakes in Low-Low gear now. I'm stopped by disc/disc with a Vette M/C.
Tony

no excuses · Jun 19, 2006

I am running a around a 2000rpm stall in my toy, 4.3v6 turbo 350 dual toy cases 2.28x2, 4.56's gear and 38.5s. Works great for me but I do have ot keep an I on the temp gauge, in long uphill runs it will climb upon me, but it does take quite a while. I am thinking of putting in another cooler too try and keep it cool. If that does not work then I guess I will try a lower stall.

MarcW · Jun 19, 2006

can you get a lock up converter? wouldnt that help with the heat on hillclimbs>?

Bunk1 · Jun 20, 2006

2400 stall to c6x4.3x5.38. i probably screwed up

junkyard jim · Jun 20, 2006

AW4 converter is stock lockup. Check out http://AW4shifting.com for controllers to lock (for engine braking) and unlocking the converter. Stock is like 1.4:1 ratio whereas other transmissions are closer to 2 or 3:1.

PORTER · Jun 20, 2006

Bunk said:
2400 stall to c6x4.3x5.38. i probably screwed up

You are on the high side, but that Fawker should launch pretty good.:redneck:

03 CON · Jun 20, 2006

Bunk said:
2400 stall to c6x4.3x5.38. i probably screwed up

Joe, never think of it as a screw up, always look at it as a learning experience....:cheer:

It could be the best thing since sliced bread....:;

Bunk1 · Jun 21, 2006

4wd burnouts or wheelies...its all i want.

Berne · Jun 21, 2006

I think you're spot on Joe.....

my converter is right around 2500 w/ my bigblock.....95% of the time, I absolutely love the way it works....

the other times, I wish I were able to lock it up on command...

--B

Roccrawler · Jun 21, 2006

I run about a 1800-1900 stall any lower would have sucked,

what porter said sum's it up

Toyotanut · May 8, 2007

PORTER said:
at a 132-1 you will need a higher stall. I am at 50 something to one, and push throught the brakes in low 1st gear only. I wish I had put a 400 over stock comverter, as it would be perfect. A bit of stall is good, but too much you will build up too much heat. I would also advise going with a stage 3 shift kit to make it full manual shifting so you can start out in a higher gear to avoid the push.

bringing this back to life, just wondering what your converter is for/out of? Does different applications have different stalls? For instance does a chev torque converter have a different stock stall than a ford torque converter?

Bunk1 · May 9, 2007

Well for what its worth i love my stall speed. I have gotten it to 260 degrees already going uphill forever, But i got a spare trans so fawk it.

Totalled · May 9, 2007

Toyotanut said:
bringing this back to life, just wondering what your converter is for/out of?

Stock 1972 Torino replacement. I wish it was a little bit looser cause my tires pretty much spin if I do more than nudge the throttle. That and the motor lugs allot from my lack of gearing in the diffs.

Does different applications have different stalls? For instance does a chev torque converter have a different stock stall than a ford torque converter?

Not really a brand vs brand as it is application vs application...

Same trans in my bronco. When it was a 2.8 V6 the V6 converter foot braked to 2,200 and flashed to 2,400. With the stock V8 car converter it might foot brake to 1,200 and flash to 1500 if I'm lucky.

Toyotanut · May 9, 2007

Totalled said:
Stock 1972 Torino replacement. I wish it was a little bit looser cause my tires pretty much spin if I do more than nudge the throttle. That and the motor lugs allot from my lack of gearing in the diffs.

Not really a brand vs brand as it is application vs application...

Same trans in my bronco. When it was a 2.8 V6 the V6 converter foot braked to 2,200 and flashed to 2,400. With the stock V8 car converter it might foot brake to 1,200 and flash to 1500 if I'm lucky.

what do you mean by flash? Just trying to figure out what stall converter I should be getting

Totalled · May 9, 2007

Flash = romp the gas from a stop and it "flashes" up to an RPM that is usually more than what you could foot brake it to. Basically the max stall of a converter.

What is the difference in the terms "Flash Stall" and "Foot-Brake Stall"?

Answer: Of the two measurements of stall, 'Flash Stall' is the most accurate. Foot-Brake stall is dependant upon too many variables. (i.e. type of braking system, disc or drum brakes, how well adjusted the brake system is, ring and pinion ratios effect foot-brake stall more dramatically, idle characteristics of engine, cam installation for low end torque as needed by automatic transmission.)

Flash Stall can be determined a couple of different ways:
With the vehicle sitting still and idling in low gear, apply full throttle. As the vehicle begins its motion forward, notice the RPM hand on the tachometer. That is your Flash Stall. (Engine should be very responsive from idle. If not, camshaft timing and/or carburetor adjustments may need to be made in order for engine to be crisp from idle.)
With the vehicle in forward motion in high or drive gear and at its lowest mph where it will not kick back to a lower gear, apply full throttle while noticing rpm hand of tachometer. (This measurement of flash stall is best achieved with a full manual transmission.)

http://www.converter.cc/tech_talk/tech_main.htm

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/selecting_right_torque_converter/