Toy rear axle crack

[Alpine4x4]

So my friend bought a roll over that we are fixing up. Its a 94 ext toy pickup with a 4" IFS lift. Has 4" blocks in back. At some point when the previous owner owned it the U bolts worked themselves loose and the blocks, shock/u bolt plate, and u bolts moved around. Well we noticed a slight oil leak coming from under the u bolt plate.

Sure enough on each side of his axle tube right below the perch there are small hairline cracks. Just enough for oil to seep through.

My question is how would you go about fixing it? JB weld? Replace the axle housing? We are planning on running a bead over it and grinding it flush. Anyone ran into something similar? Thanks.:beer:

 

[megatoy66]

Once they crack in that area they keep going, you can weld it but it will be a temporary fix. Time for a new housing.

 

[Alpine4x4]

Once they crack in that area they keep going, you can weld it but it will be a temporary fix. Time for a new housing.

Great

Still got that rear out of my old pickup:redneck:

 

[AMJ]

Toss that puppy and get a new one.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

JB weld should be fine.:cheer:

 

[nevada]

So my friend bought a roll over that we are fixing up. Its a 94 ext toy pickup with a 4" IFS lift. Has 4" blocks in back. At some point when the previous owner owned it the U bolts worked themselves loose and the blocks, shock/u bolt plate, and u bolts moved around. Well we noticed a slight oil leak coming from under the u bolt plate.

Sure enough on each side of his axle tube right below the perch there are small hairline cracks. Just enough for oil to seep through.

My question is how would you go about fixing it? JB weld? Replace the axle housing? We are planning on running a bead over it and grinding it flush. Anyone ran into something similar? Thanks.:beer:

yep, happened to my truck too.



you could grind the crack, and weld it, then grind it flush. then(this is what i did) get a 3" or 3.5" pipe(whatever size u need) split it down the middle, and sleeve the tube. otherwise, like said above it will continue to crack. but, by sleeving it, your spreading the load across more surface.:awesomework:
some will say blah blah, just replace it. but why, if it can be repaired?

but if ur gonna toss the housing...i'll take it.

 

[crash2]

yep, happened to my truck too.



you could grind the crack, and weld it, then grind it flush. then(this is what i did) get a 3" or 3.5" pipe(whatever size u need) split it down the middle, and sleeve the tube. otherwise, like said above it will continue to crack. but, by sleeving it, your spreading the load across more surface.:awesomework:
some will say blah blah, just replace it. but why, if it can be repaired?

but if ur gonna toss the housing...i'll take it.

Once the housing crack--they are done. Once started--they will continue to crack. Seen it a # of times with the same outcome no matter whats done to do....

 

[nevada]

Once the housing crack--they are done. Once started--they will continue to crack. Seen it a # of times with the same outcome no matter whats done to do....

like i said...if ur gonna toss the housing, i'll take it:;

 

[2slow4you]

what about drilling the end of the crack to stop it and then welding/grinding it up? I'm sure its still a temp fix but it might last a little longer.

Anyway you look at it rear axles are cheap, 50-75$ for a bare housing almost anyplace you go.

 

[Alpine4x4]

what about drilling the end of the crack to stop it and then welding/grinding it up? I'm sure its still a temp fix but it might last a little longer.

Anyway you look at it rear axles are cheap, 50-75$ for a bare housing almost anyplace you go.

I talked it over with my friend. We are going to go ahead and weld it up and keep $$$ in the pocket for when it does crack again. As of right now we need this rig up and running asap and don't know when we will be able to get a new housing.

Thanks for all the help guys:awesomework:

 

[TTF Fabrication]

so for the guys who say once they crack they are done.... is there any preventative actions you can take to avoid this? would it help to grind the factory welds down and lay a nice solid bead over them to prevent cracking? or would it just be best to torch off the factory perches and lay a heavy bead on some new ones?

 

[nevada]

so for the guys who say once they crack they are done.... is there any preventative actions you can take to avoid this? would it help to grind the factory welds down and lay a nice solid bead over them to prevent cracking? or would it just be best to torch off the factory perches and lay a heavy bead on some new ones?

they dont crack on a weld. atleast mine didnt. it cracked right where the u-bolt mounting plate hit the tube.

after mine cracked, i repaired it as i stated above, and then i did a u-bolt flip. no problems since...

 

[AMJ]

so for the guys who say once they crack they are done.... is there any preventative actions you can take to avoid this? would it help to grind the factory welds down and lay a nice solid bead over them to prevent cracking? or would it just be best to torch off the factory perches and lay a heavy bead on some new ones?

It isn't so much of a crack as a tear. Toyotas housing are prown to tearing open like a tin can and it usually happens in the spot around the perches. The best preventative action is to keep the ubolts tight to distrubute the load.

 

[crash2]

so for the guys who say once they crack they are done.... is there any preventative actions you can take to avoid this? would it help to grind the factory welds down and lay a nice solid bead over them to prevent cracking? or would it just be best to torch off the factory perches and lay a heavy bead on some new ones?

ITS a tin can. The only way to stop it---truss it....

 

[nevada]

It isn't so much of a crack as a tear. Toyotas housing are prown to tearing open like a tin can and it usually happens in the spot around the perches. The best preventative action is to keep the ubolts tight to distrubute the load.

"Well we noticed a slight oil leak coming from under the u bolt plate."

the OP, and myself, experienced cracks in a different spot. not by the perches. was on the bottom of the tube. is that what you're talking about?

 

[AMJ]

"Well we noticed a slight oil leak coming from under the u bolt plate."

the OP, and myself, experienced cracks in a different spot. not by the perches. was on the bottom of the tube. is that what you're talking about?

It can happen in either place. Usually the bottom of the tube becomes somewhat crushed due to the u bolt plate.

 

[crash2]

It can happen in either place. Usually the bottom of the tube becomes somewhat crushed due to the u bolt plate.

Seen it there a # of times.

I have also seen alot of the "I will weld in and it will be ok"---ya I don't know of one diff that was ok--all have been replaced :haha:

I have a good example of what happen sitting in the shop I use to show peeps/customers...

The metal they used to build the housings just gets stress factures--once it starts it never stops...

 

[orangecrush1]

save your money and weld it. take the money you saved and buy some( a lot) of beer and test the welds by jumping it repetedly. If after several beers the craks have not reappeared you are good to go.

 

[Mark m.]

If its a wheeler weld it and move on.

 

[Alpine4x4]

save your money and weld it. take the money you saved and buy some( a lot) of beer and test the welds by jumping it repetedly. If after several beers the craks have not reappeared you are good to go.

Well considering this might end up being a pre runner it most likely WILL be jumped. For now though its a DD that he needs ASAP so welding it up and sourcing a new housing at a later time is our best alternative.

And yes it cracked on the bottom of the tube not near the perch.

How about we weld the U bolt mounting plate to the axle after we weld the welds and create a "oil reservoir" inside there. Problem solved:fawkdancesmiley::haha::beer: