Toyota Steering Box Position

[PaulSac]

So I just finished my SAS with rears up front on my 4runner. My front axle is about 4" forward from stock. I am moving the steering box forward now and after reading alot of threads including the links on pirates toyota bible I want to double check my work. With the plates I got I can only move the box forward 1.5" unless I cut the front point of the plate which is pointed the disperse the strain as I have read. At 1.5" forward my crossover bar is parrallel with the other one so I think I am in a good position. I tilted the box enough to bring my flat pitman arm right up to the bottom of the frame. Whats everyoen think? Look good?

 

[cisco]

Looks like the castle nut is a little close to the frame but its hard to tell from the picture. Cycle the steering with the driver side suspension at full stuff.

 

[jzmudbogger]

Looks good but it wouldn't hurt to move the steering box another.5-1" forward. Maybe cut the back side of the body mount bracket just enough to slide the plates forward? Or round off the point on the plates, I don't think it will do to much harm on the strenght

 

[tmill]

:awesomework:it looks good. that is about what mine looked like when i set mine up. the axle should relocate back too the cab a little bit and you drag link and tie rod will be close to parallel if not a little "v"ed out. looks good. if the castle nut it too close to the fame just notch the frame and plate it for strength.

check out my build thread if you want some ideas on how to move the bock further forward into the body mount. I cut my body mount all up and reinforced it

 

[PaulSac]

The castle nut is only on by a 1/2 a thread just to hold the bar up for the picture. It screws in almost flush with the pitman arm.

 

[cisco]

The castle nut is only on by a 1/2 a thread just to hold the bar up for the picture. It screws in almost flush with the pitman arm.

I'd thread the nut all the way down and check to make sure the bolt portion doesn't interfere with the frame. You could always cut it down but it's nice to be able to replace a broken part without having to modify the replacement.

You could notch the frame like previously mentioned but why do it if you dont have to. If the drag link clears the spring at full stuff there is a little room to angle the arm down.

 

[dove'd85]

looks fine. add bump stops before you mount the box, or eye ball it and see how much room you have between the pitman arm and spring when the spring is compessed. you don't have the spring to compress any more then flat.

 

[crash2]

I would not move the box forward but I would rotate it down a bit and like james said bump stop it.

 

[PaulSac]

Got it. I will put a string across from my front leaf bolt to the rear one and that should give me an idea of where it would be flat. I'll make sure the pitman arm clears but not angle it up too much.

 

[Dubshot]

I got the same setup i set my ps box srtaight no angle at all.. i cut the bottom the the plating with a grinder after I traced it with a sharpie with the frame word perfect and my shocks are my bumpstops til I get bump stops :redneck:

 

[heep70]

Looks good except as mentioned about the ball joint thread might hit the frame once the nut is tightened down.

That is about were I place my steer gear except the sector shaft is clocked almost straight up and down.