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Toyota V6 alternator wiring

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Gibby1

Did I BREAK that.......
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
3,014
So, getting ready to go to Elbe this weekend and I start checking everything over. I find out that my alternator isn't charging... at all. I have a Premier Power welder and Crash did the wiring but getting in touch with him, we ALL know how tough that is.

There's a plug with 3 wires coming out of the alternator, I need to know where each of these is supposed to go? I don't have the plug, going to have to grab one of those at the wrecking yard tomorrow.

Anyone know where these three wires are supposed to go?
 
No, the rat's didn't get it this time. I have a sneaky suspicion that the diode went TU. Buster's going to take it in to a friend of his to see if he can fix it. But the unit is so proprietary that parts are just about impossible to find. If he can bench test it and find that it's not putting out juice then I could possibly get a diode in on time for the weekend. It's a 10 minute job to replace the diode.

If the alternator is good then perhaps the voltage regulator, which is external on this setup, is bad. I do have a spare of those (somewhere) but I could also get that overnighted if I know that's what I need. Premier is very good at walking through a diagnostic if I have my voltmeter out.

The welder and high charge circuits have not been working since Crash finished the wiring. The power goes on but the high charge circuit doesn't run. But it was at least charging properly.

Unfortunately what I have to figure out is the reverse of the process described in that article to put the factory alternator back in. The mounts are identical, the positive and negative terminals are a no brainer. But the original wiring harness is completely gone so I can just plug back into the old wiring.

I was thinking about throwing a stock GM alternator on to get me through the weekend but I don't know if I have enough bracketry left over to make it work. Crash, can I stick a GM 1 wire alternator on this bracketry or did you cut stuff out or leave parts off that I need? I don't have one just sitting around to try.
 
Crash, any info here? I don't see any ears cut off the mounts for the alternator but wondering however if I can stick on a GM 1 wire for the weekend or am I going to need to fab brackets to make it fit?
 
didn't even notice this thread...

That alternator is alot smallern than a gm 1 wire--closer to a toyota alt if I remember correctly....

Doesn't that setup use a gm regulator mounted in the welding box thing?

I seem to recall seeing something like that when I tossed it in...


This is the #1 reason I really dislike this system....
 
crash said:
didn't even notice this thread...

That alternator is alot smallern than a gm 1 wire--closer to a toyota alt if I remember correctly....

Doesn't that setup use a gm regulator mounted in the welding box thing?

I seem to recall seeing something like that when I tossed it in...


This is the #1 reason I really dislike this system....
Click to expand...

It actually is a replacement for Toy alternator. I'm not worried about running the welder just having a working charging system. The Power Welder requires an ignition wire which goes to the brown wire on the alternator. I'm thinking I can put a GM 1 wire on there, hook up the ignition wire to the alternator and the rest is just the positive and negative posts. If that sounds right, do you recall if there's any missing bracketry to install a basic GM alternator? I could remove the bracket adaptors you made. I didn't see anything cut off but it's hard to tell if there's anything missing? If I had one sitting here I'd just try to see if it fits but since I don't and I'm really tight on time... I'm hoping to not waste time or money guessing.

It does use an external voltage regulator but I'm thinking about just completely bypassing that system for this weekend.
 
Ok--I just looked at the pics I had..

You can get an alt off like a 96 tahoe/sub/s-10 and it will bolt right up (once the brackets that hold the alt). You will also have to get the connector for the alt also--locate an ignition source and add inline to the ignition source a 194 bulb...
 
crash said:
Ok--I just looked at the pics I had..

You can get an alt off like a 96 tahoe/sub/s-10 and it will bolt right up (once the brackets that hold the alt). You will also have to get the connector for the alt also--locate an ignition source and add inline to the ignition source a 194 bulb...
Click to expand...

I just happen to have a buddies rolled suburban sitting out at my farm that just might do the trick!

Why the bulb? Not 100% sure on the year but it seems about right.
 
Gibby said:
I just happen to have a buddies rolled suburban sitting out at my farm that just might do the trick!

Why the bulb? Not 100% sure on the year but it seems about right.
Click to expand...


Why a burb-- just sounded good :redneck:

Your good to go unless its a 95-older--different mouting setup...
 
crash said:
ohh-- That alt needs to see a voltage drop on the exciter wire. Don't ask me why---blame the GM engineers on that one :redneck:
Click to expand...

So the bulb causes enough of a voltage drop to trigger the alternator to spit out some juice?

Now if you could only fix your web cam...
 
It took a little work, but I was able to get a basic GM 1 wire to work and I have a charging system for the weekend.
 
I use a 500K ohm resistor instead of the bulb on the the 96' and newer chevy alternator, but you have to make sure your wiring plug has the wire in the right spot or it will crap out. I dont know what spot that is off hand, but I did burn up a few alternators before I figured it out...
 
i used a shift light from my old auto meter tach setup. without that bulb, the alternator would not even charge. however, all that is pointless now that i have my gm 1-wire bolted in. 3 toyota alternators was what ended it for me.


holley
 

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