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Trailer Decking?

Those boards are very bad. If you look close where the big hole is now those boards have been done for some time--lots of dry rot and something you won't have to worry about with pressure treated....

Ya i talked about doing this last year about the same time, never got around to it :mad:
 
Some I just learned I need to do to mine soon as well...Gots me a lil hole in the rear of one of the boards...:redneck:
 
Here is how it looks currently

photobucket-701-1339465834888.jpg
 
The chemicals in pressure treated wood will rust steel. :;

It will take years and years to do this and all the steel is going to be preshly repainted before the decking goes on:awesomework:

I ordered 20 cans of rust tuff semi gloss black paint today, my awesome friend Ryan picked up the rpessure treated lumber for me, I am picking up 4 more weld on tie downs, and 4 smaller tie downs for quads and other misc. crap as well. So its getting more tie downs added, a full repaint under and top side and a new deck! Its gonna be a brand new trailer again:cheer:
 
war jeeper, it is probably cheaper to get bigger tires that wont fall in the cracks. Needless to say, maybe a yota.... :stirpot:

I am just joking. Pressure treated may rust bare steel, but will take longer if the steel is painted. That deck isnt terrible from the pics, maybe just replace the boards that are broke.
 
nevermind, read your last post. you will not be disappointed with the treated wood. post pics when you are done
 
Holy **** that's a hole Sam!!! :redneck: And double holy ****---PAT's still alive!!! :fawkdancesmiley: :haha:
 
The ones i posted are a self drilling screw so why would they suck?

Im not good at yearly coatings on decking so im thinking treated may be easier?

Those self drilling screws break off too easy. They are not meant to drill thru the 1/8 to 1/4 of steel that you attach to. The drill feature is marginal at best as you will have no place for the chips to go. You have to think in realms of drilling a really deep hole with those and there is no chip ejection.

The screws I mentioned are just what I prefer. I have built a few trailers and repaired a few and the screws mentioned fit my bill well. I very rarely break one on install, if the hole was drilled at correct size. The screws I like are a royal PITA if you dont have a small impact driver.

I agree that coating the trailer every year or two is more than most like to do.
 
I got these at lowes and they worked great. I screwed them in with a dewalt cordless impact with a #3 phillips bit.( not sure on the price )
 
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war jeeper, it is probably cheaper to get bigger tires that wont fall in the cracks. Needless to say, maybe a yota.... :stirpot:

I am just joking. Pressure treated may rust bare steel, but will take longer if the steel is painted. That deck isnt terrible from the pics, maybe just replace the boards that are broke.

I have a yota:fawkdancesmiley:and a jeep and a zuggy hahahaha im an equal opportunity wheeler as far as rigs go lol

nevermind, read your last post. you will not be disappointed with the treated wood. post pics when you are done

Will do!

Holy **** that's a hole Sam!!! :redneck: And double holy ****---PAT's still alive!!! :fawkdancesmiley: :haha:

Ya its been rotten for a while:redneck:

Those self drilling screws break off too easy. They are not meant to drill thru the 1/8 to 1/4 of steel that you attach to. The drill feature is marginal at best as you will have no place for the chips to go. You have to think in realms of drilling a really deep hole with those and there is no chip ejection.

The screws I mentioned are just what I prefer. I have built a few trailers and repaired a few and the screws mentioned fit my bill well. I very rarely break one on install, if the hole was drilled at correct size. The screws I like are a royal PITA if you dont have a small impact driver.

I agree that coating the trailer every year or two is more than most like to do.


After some further reading i agree, im gonna get the ones you mentioned and buy several pre drilling bits as i will be putting in 210 of those bastards:awesomework:
 
On e-trailer.com they had the type F screws specific for treated lumber so i ordered those ones was 65 bucks for 250 of them with shipping
 
There's really nothing wrong with using the PT, you're just not getting anything extra (for this app) for the price. The ACQ treatment will eat into the steel, but not before the board is long gone. It would take a lot of years. If you're worried about it apply some stick on flashing (Fortiflash, Vycor etc..) before the boards)

PT boards are soft. Typically they use a green Hem/Fir. They have to be soft in order to get the treatment to penetrate properly. A quality Doug Fir (not Pine or SPF) will be stronger. T&G is an option also, but the cost is a little more. Or if money isn't an option, Apatong would give you a lifetime deck (for the tune of about $1500) Treat the bottom and sides of the boards with a quality sealer (I use Penofin) before installing.

I use and sell a quality Coated Type F screw with a torx bugle head. You have to pre drill but they resist corrosion and are plenty strong.
 
There's really nothing wrong with using the PT, you're just not getting anything extra (for this app) for the price. The ACQ treatment will eat into the steel, but not before the board is long gone. It would take a lot of years. If you're worried about it apply some stick on flashing (Fortiflash, Vycor etc..) before the boards)

PT boards are soft. Typically they use a green Hem/Fir. They have to be soft in order to get the treatment to penetrate properly. A quality Doug Fir (not Pine or SPF) will be stronger. T&G is an option also, but the cost is a little more. Or if money isn't an option, Apatong would give you a lifetime deck (for the tune of about $1500) Treat the bottom and sides of the boards with a quality sealer (I use Penofin) before installing.

I use and sell a quality Coated Type F screw with a torx bugle head. You have to pre drill but they resist corrosion and are plenty strong.

Well i already purchased treated lumber and the proper screws for treated wood cause im gonna bust this out this weekend:awesomework: It should last for longer than i own the trailer:cool:
 
There's really nothing wrong with using the PT, you're just not getting anything extra (for this app) for the price. The ACQ treatment will eat into the steel, but not before the board is long gone. It would take a lot of years. If you're worried about it apply some stick on flashing (Fortiflash, Vycor etc..) before the boards)

PT boards are soft. Typically they use a green Hem/Fir. They have to be soft in order to get the treatment to penetrate properly. A quality Doug Fir (not Pine or SPF) will be stronger. T&G is an option also, but the cost is a little more. Or if money isn't an option, Apatong would give you a lifetime deck (for the tune of about $1500) Treat the bottom and sides of the boards with a quality sealer (I use Penofin) before installing.

I use and sell a quality Coated Type F screw with a torx bugle head. You have to pre drill but they resist corrosion and are plenty strong.


I agree with the apitong. We use this on our lowboys and it lasts years under sever use:awesomework: But I see you made you choice and for a car trailer it looks like it will last a long time :awesomework:
 
I agree with the apitong. We use this on our lowboys and it lasts years under sever use:awesomework: But I see you made you choice and for a car trailer it looks like it will last a long time :awesomework:

Ya i think for the use it gets around here and traveling around with the zuggy it will last me a good long time:cheer:
 
Well i already purchased treated lumber and the proper screws for treated wood cause im gonna bust this out this weekend:awesomework: It should last for longer than i own the trailer:cool:


It'll work good:awesomework: This actually gave me the motivation to finally start re-decking my trailer last night.
 

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