Ok, so I know there are a LOT of different lockers out there for the toyota axle. Sooooo...what is the best non-selectable locker out there for an 84? I can't afford an ARB or an aftermarket electric selectable, and don't want to weld it or spool it because it gets driven on the street too much. Would I be able to find an E-locker out of a newer Yota and make it work in order to get a selectable locker for cheap? What can I do?
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Which locker?
- Thread starter wentz912
- Start date
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
detroit
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
Tire size?
Welded/spool is cheapest and if you don't like it, new third members are relatively cheap. Personally I don't mind mine on the street.
If you're running 33s or smaller, I'd go with an Aussie Locker or LockRight. Good bang (ha!) for the buck and you can install it yourself in an hour or less.
Detroits are great, but expensive (plus paying someone to set it up for you).
Welded/spool is cheapest and if you don't like it, new third members are relatively cheap. Personally I don't mind mine on the street.
If you're running 33s or smaller, I'd go with an Aussie Locker or LockRight. Good bang (ha!) for the buck and you can install it yourself in an hour or less.
Detroits are great, but expensive (plus paying someone to set it up for you).
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
Detroit
PORTER
Well-Known Member
Detroit would be the best alternative, as a Lockright/Aussie locker will work great in the front but will work like **** in the rear and grenade in a short amount of time.
archer1965
Well-Known Member
PORTER said:
um...I run a lockright in the rear of my Taco and has worked great for four years and counting. :cheer:
That said: I run 33's, don't wheel the piss outta my truck, and I maintain it meticulously.
If you are going to wheel it hard, I'd say Detroit. If not, nothing wrong with a Lockright.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
Dude, like I said I have run many lockrights in the front with no issues(Noise,binding,etc), But in the rear they bang,pop, and do not unlock around corners and will self distruct. You, have had good luck but alot of others have not. I have witnesses this first hand as many of my buddys used to run them in the rear, and now run welded/spool for better durability.archer1965 said:
for the front; detroit, but i would just save up enough till you can get an ARB.
for the rear; weld or buy a spool. a spool is only aroung 150 bucks and will do the same job as welding the spider gears but will weigh like 45lbs less. i dont believe in putting anything else in the rear (except an ARB).
for the rear; weld or buy a spool. a spool is only aroung 150 bucks and will do the same job as welding the spider gears but will weigh like 45lbs less. i dont believe in putting anything else in the rear (except an ARB).
archer1965
Well-Known Member
PORTER said:
I hear ya. Mine bangs around, pops, but it does lock and unlock as intended. I'm just saying it's a good option for people on a budget who don't own trail-only rigs.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
I hear ya guy, I ran them for alot of years with zero probs. Nothing wrong with a lockright:; .archer1965 said:
no excuses
Well-Known Member
is this for the front or rear ?? for the rear if u want selectable go with a E locker
uke: from out of a newer toyota. some people love them and have no problems. I hated mine in the front, took to long to engage/disengage but would have been fine in the rear where I would have left it locked up all the time. For the front yah have a choice, go cheep and go lockright/aussie locker which work great in the front untill yah break pins and they wipe out ur R&P. Or go with a Detriot and they work great till yah blow an axle then it can be wiped out :redneck: .
uke: from out of a newer toyota. some people love them and have no problems. I hated mine in the front, took to long to engage/disengage but would have been fine in the rear where I would have left it locked up all the time. For the front yah have a choice, go cheep and go lockright/aussie locker which work great in the front untill yah break pins and they wipe out ur R&P. Or go with a Detriot and they work great till yah blow an axle then it can be wiped out :redneck: .Trailtoy1993
Well-Known Member
johnboy said:
X2 Spool or ARB is only way to fly in the rear. Lockrite has worked great for me in the front, any auto locker or arb will do good in the front.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Detroit
LWB Samurai Joe
Well-Known Member
Im an ARB guy, but I'd guess a spool would be the cheapest. Im not a big fan of welding. I have some friends up in Canada that heat up aluminum and poor it in the diff till its full!
I guess I should have seen this coming. LOTS of different opinions and unfortunately they all seem to make sense to me Anyhow, it's looking like I'm going to go with a detroit as soon as I get back from BCT. Than later on an ARB for the front :redneck: Thanks for the help guys.
BTW, i'm only runnning 30's at pressent and won't be moving up for a good while. And one other question that I had, if i get my locker before I change tire size and gear ratios, can I change the R&P and just stick the same old locker back in there?
Anyhow, it's looking like I'm going to go with a detroit as soon as I get back from BCT. Than later on an ARB for the front :redneck: Thanks for the help guys.BTW, i'm only runnning 30's at pressent and won't be moving up for a good while. And one other question that I had, if i get my locker before I change tire size and gear ratios, can I change the R&P and just stick the same old locker back in there?
Toyotanut
Well-Known Member
wentz912 said:I guess I should have seen this coming. LOTS of different opinions and unfortunately they all seem to make sense to me
BTW, i'm only runnning 30's at pressent and won't be moving up for a good while. And one other question that I had, if i get my locker before I change tire size and gear ratios, can I change the R&P and just stick the same old locker back in there?
yes you can still use the same locker with different r&p ratios.....
79chevy39.5's
Well-Known Member
my buddy is runnin 35's f/r powertrax and coulda saved alota money by weldin the rear because it never unlocks
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
79chevy39.5's said:
Then he didn't check the thrust clearances. In some instances, due to variances in carrier manufacturing, it's necessary to swap thrust washers (cheap at the dealership) to obtain the correct gap. If it's too tight, it'll never unlock.
Dain Bramage
Well-Known Member
i got a detroit in the rear, and an e-locker out of a 94 runner in the front. my only issue with the e-locker is that it doesnt always fully disengage. other than that i love it.
